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Landlordish bitter
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ManseMasher
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Condoms make great water bombs, vaseline is brilliant for lubricating saw blades. You have a VERY dirty mind young man....
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stevej
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Of course it all makes sense now silly me, condoms at your age what was i thinking of:lol:
Oi! Less of the young.
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stevej
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Christ no!
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ManseMasher
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He knows that, he knows you.....
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stevej
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:geek:.........................
Right, ignoring the 2+ pages of nonsense above, I will gamely struggle on with the brew day report. Mash is on. Got about 15 mins more to go. Annoyingly my thermometer measured it at 67.4c so I wrapped it up and left. Took temp halfway through and the thermometer read 68.5c. So I may have mashed high which isn't ideal. Must have been cooler at the top of the mash and by halfway through that heat had diffused throughout. It's down to 66.8c so it is what it is now!
Lesson: give the mash a bloody good stir before taking temp.... As manse would say, every days a school day.
Back to the shed now for wort recirculating and sparge!
Lesson: give the mash a bloody good stir before taking temp.... As manse would say, every days a school day.
Back to the shed now for wort recirculating and sparge!
It was......
anyway, all done. Hit target slightly above OG at 1052 though with only 11 litres of wort but that got topped up with the starter wort to about 12, so pretty close to expected.
Measured out some additional FO EKG hops to add, then completely forgot about them til the wort was chilled.
My home made chiller worked a treat again, got to 21 in about 20 mins. Cold winter water helped I guess.
Added the London ale III starter and a bit of sa04 just in case. The starter was producing co2 so definitely something going on there but I have no idea if there was the right amount of yeast in it, hence the safeguard of the 04. We'll see.
Me, amateurish? Never!
Measured out some additional FO EKG hops to add, then completely forgot about them til the wort was chilled.
My home made chiller worked a treat again, got to 21 in about 20 mins. Cold winter water helped I guess.
Added the London ale III starter and a bit of sa04 just in case. The starter was producing co2 so definitely something going on there but I have no idea if there was the right amount of yeast in it, hence the safeguard of the 04. We'll see.
Me, amateurish? Never!
Bunglebrewsbeer
Landlord.
Is that IBU not a bit low? I'm no expert. I've just done one at 31 and that was for me at the very low end. My dad however thought it was a great beer. That's the first time he's enjoyed one of my ales. He's s bit blown away by beers I've used American and NZ hops in. But my recent English ale he loved.
Yes, probably! My lowest the previous was my boddingtons clone which was around 35, but my dad thought it was very bitter and over hopped. He's used to very typical pub bitters, and I had thought myself that it was slightly more bitter than expected, so I'm experimenting by dropping it right down to see the difference. it may be overly sweet but we'll see. This brew is something of an experiment all round for me so I'm not too concerned if it's not up the with the best beer I've made.
Yeah but your Bodds had an OG of only 1039 so the 33 IBUs will have seemed bitter. 1026 IBUs in a 1050 beer is a big drop in bitterness. The Bodds has a 0.85 bu:gu ratio, this one is 0.52.
Probably keep your dad happy I guess. I spent decades wondering why so much beer was so bland.
Good point hadn't really though about that. Obviously there is no ideal ratio as its down to personal taste but would you typically look at 1:1 as your baseline?
Think I'm going to have a very sweet beer!
Beer styles vary, when it cones to OG to IBU ratios. Rules are there to be broken though. I lean more to IBUs, most of the time, cos I like bitterness. So 1 to 1 suits me pretty well, in pale ales anyway. 0.75 is more standard I think, for example 1040 with 30 IBUs.
Just done a scan of wheelers recipes and most seem to be bu:gu of 0.6 - 0.75. On reflection my 1:1 comment is obviously nonsense as that would mean a 1050 beer should be 50ibu which you probably wouldnt want.
My previous beers have all been around 0.8 (usually around 1050 and 40ibu).
There were a few examples of beers in wheelers book that had an OG of 1050 and IBU in the 20s but not many! Guess it's at the extreme end of the spectrum.
So I've learned something new today. I'm not going to faff about with a hop tea to add bitterness. I'll just see how it comes out (hopefully drinkable) and learn from the experience.
Thanks for the pointer, clibit!
My previous beers have all been around 0.8 (usually around 1050 and 40ibu).
There were a few examples of beers in wheelers book that had an OG of 1050 and IBU in the 20s but not many! Guess it's at the extreme end of the spectrum.
So I've learned something new today. I'm not going to faff about with a hop tea to add bitterness. I'll just see how it comes out (hopefully drinkable) and learn from the experience.
Thanks for the pointer, clibit!
Yes you're at the low end of the spectrum but the beer may be great, especially with the yeast you're using. These low IBU English ales are all about quality malts and nice yeast flavours.
I do regular 1050 beers with 40 IBUs too. But I do some 1050s with 50-60 IBUs too. Especially if I'm upping the Crystal malt to provide more malt sweetness, in a red ale for example.
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