nickjdavis
Regular.
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2019
- Messages
- 449
- Reaction score
- 602
There are two ways of doing this....both work acceptably well.
So....brew and ferment as you normally would, raise temps towards end of fermentation for a diacetyl rest, cold crash to drop yeast out of suspension.
Then either...
1) bottle immediately, carbonating via your preferred sugar for carbonation, put the bottles somewhere warm (20c) for a couple of weeks to carb up, then put them somewhere cold (0-4 degrees if possible) for several weeks to lager.
or...
2) rack to secondary, put somewhere cold (0-4 degrees if possible) for several weeks lagering and then bottle, put bottled beer somewhere warm for a couple of weeks until carbonated. General wisdom says even after the lagering period that there will be enough yeast in suspension to eat the sugars that you add at bottling time. If however you are unconvinced, there is absolutely nothing to stop you adding a gram or so of rehydrated yeast to your batch when bottling (this is easiest if you follow a batch priming process, rather than priming each bottle individually)...Safale F2 is a good neutral yeast designed specifically for bottling.
Both methods work equally well. I personally follow the 2nd option because I generally fine my lagers with gelatine (easier to do as a batch in secondary) and I make more efficient use of my lagering fridge by putting a 23L carboy in it than 40 odd bottles.
So....brew and ferment as you normally would, raise temps towards end of fermentation for a diacetyl rest, cold crash to drop yeast out of suspension.
Then either...
1) bottle immediately, carbonating via your preferred sugar for carbonation, put the bottles somewhere warm (20c) for a couple of weeks to carb up, then put them somewhere cold (0-4 degrees if possible) for several weeks to lager.
or...
2) rack to secondary, put somewhere cold (0-4 degrees if possible) for several weeks lagering and then bottle, put bottled beer somewhere warm for a couple of weeks until carbonated. General wisdom says even after the lagering period that there will be enough yeast in suspension to eat the sugars that you add at bottling time. If however you are unconvinced, there is absolutely nothing to stop you adding a gram or so of rehydrated yeast to your batch when bottling (this is easiest if you follow a batch priming process, rather than priming each bottle individually)...Safale F2 is a good neutral yeast designed specifically for bottling.
Both methods work equally well. I personally follow the 2nd option because I generally fine my lagers with gelatine (easier to do as a batch in secondary) and I make more efficient use of my lagering fridge by putting a 23L carboy in it than 40 odd bottles.