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I meant tape to mark the water leveln
Klarstein Mundschenk
- Thread starter Eight Ace
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Managed to get a false bottom for mine. Angel homebrew sent a 'back in stock' email. I ordered one pretty much immediately & it was then marked as 'out of stock' so they must have found one in the back of a cupboard.
I might now try a batch without using the hop spider to see if hop utilisation appears any better.
I might now try a batch without using the hop spider to see if hop utilisation appears any better.
fluketamer
Regular.
underletting for the win!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/underletting-in-an-all-in-one.676116/#post-10363616
" grind directly into the pre-assembled basket, then just put it into the preheated mash water and let it sink. It actually floats and slowly lowers itself! WAY easier than traditional mashin"
tried this for the first time and i wont go back to traditional dough in . this is no brainer for me.
anyone else do this its much easier and no change in efficiency.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/underletting-in-an-all-in-one.676116/#post-10363616
" grind directly into the pre-assembled basket, then just put it into the preheated mash water and let it sink. It actually floats and slowly lowers itself! WAY easier than traditional mashin"
tried this for the first time and i wont go back to traditional dough in . this is no brainer for me.
anyone else do this its much easier and no change in efficiency.
Yes that was always how I did it but I have a concern about the sides and bottom sinking at different rates as the grain floats and no longer holds it together. I use the mash paddle to force the pipe down then stir.
Did you notice much in hop utilisation? Brewlosophy did a vid on hop spiders and I don't think they noticed much difference. Used a hop spider for the first time on Friday. And I could see plenty of oils coming from the basket and beer smelt as good as usual. Saved a load of mess in the bottom of the kettle as well. I'll wait and see what the beer comes out like but it's having a massive dry hop anyway so maybe not the beer to test with.
Haven't got as far as drinking anything done without a hop spider yet...
![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
I know this is an oldish post now but I would also add the GF has much better build quality, plumbing fittings, & a decent manual (I've got both
)
I noticed they listed a refurbished silver for £288.99 and with the 24SUMMER21 code for 21% it comes to £228.30. Not as good as the £176.99 we all paid but not bad. Sounds like the refurb might just be an unwanted return and so likely hasn't been through a brew.
Edit: seems they recently had a 30% code 24SUMMER30 so maybe wait until that comes back.
Edit2: the refurbs are now sold out and the 21% code ended last night.
Edit: seems they recently had a 30% code 24SUMMER30 so maybe wait until that comes back.
Edit2: the refurbs are now sold out and the 21% code ended last night.
Last edited:
24Summer21 code saying expired ,was looking for ss fermenter, anybody found any new discount codes for this
or any recommendations for other ss fermenter under £100 .many thanks in advance
Just to add to this thread, I'm still brewing on my Klarstein maischfest - if I could have afforded something fanicer I would have - but it seemed a good price at the time.
I remain really happy with it - I run a brew club with a friend who has a peco boiler and a grain father - while the grain father is far fanicer and nicer looking, any deficiency in my brews I make on it are down to my skill and not the system. The other night I tried his peco boiler to make a basic lager and it worked perfectly - brewing a beer that we've all enjoyed.
Often the grain father take longer to get to temp or has a blockage somewhere, while the klarstein just powers on and does the job.
Spend what you can afford but you can make great beer on just about any bit of kit if you take your time and follow a clear plan/recipe.
I remain really happy with it - I run a brew club with a friend who has a peco boiler and a grain father - while the grain father is far fanicer and nicer looking, any deficiency in my brews I make on it are down to my skill and not the system. The other night I tried his peco boiler to make a basic lager and it worked perfectly - brewing a beer that we've all enjoyed.
Often the grain father take longer to get to temp or has a blockage somewhere, while the klarstein just powers on and does the job.
Spend what you can afford but you can make great beer on just about any bit of kit if you take your time and follow a clear plan/recipe.
fluketamer
Regular.
do any of you guys use a hop spider with your rig, or bag or just dump and whirlpool?
i noticed a definite decrease in hop bitterness and flavor with the spider then when i used to use a sac.
thanks
i noticed a definite decrease in hop bitterness and flavor with the spider then when i used to use a sac.
thanks
i have a brewzilla and a klarstein fullhorn i just bung em in and give it a good whirlpool with the paddle
I have a Mundschenk and use a pretty big hop spider in it, I've only done a couple of brews with it so far so it's probably a bit early to tell, but I haven't noticed any comparable difference to when I used to do single gallons on the stovetop with hops in bags.
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
I only use the hop spider for whole hops and elderflower for elderflower saison.
I use a home made trub trapper / brewtools trapper.
Only 13.5 g of saaz in this Tafelbier so not a great example.
First brew testing setup having done some more mods to my guten.
Second pump to circulate through double coolossus and then whirlpool. Original pump does the mash and then separate whirlpool, I can whirlpool gently and recirculate at the same time using the original pump.
This mixes the deadspace wort and ensures the temp probe gets a good flow.
Also fitted temp probe at reentry point of recirculate to compare kettle temperature sensor with top of mash.
They are within 0.5 degrees of each other.
I use a home made trub trapper / brewtools trapper.
Only 13.5 g of saaz in this Tafelbier so not a great example.
First brew testing setup having done some more mods to my guten.
Second pump to circulate through double coolossus and then whirlpool. Original pump does the mash and then separate whirlpool, I can whirlpool gently and recirculate at the same time using the original pump.
This mixes the deadspace wort and ensures the temp probe gets a good flow.
Also fitted temp probe at reentry point of recirculate to compare kettle temperature sensor with top of mash.
They are within 0.5 degrees of each other.
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Oooo this brings back memories.
I had a pumped cfc piped to a BM. Good work.
I had a pumped cfc piped to a BM. Good work.
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Thanks I used to connect the pump via three way through the single CFC but the extra 12m of coil I added warranted some more oomph ( in my opinion).
I can chill the whole batch from boil to pitch in about 15 minutes of whirlpool. Then a ten minute stand to let it all settle and pump into the fermenter.
Any changes always mean a reset of learning.
fluketamer
Regular.
sick mod !
I've just opened a few bottles that was from the first batch I brewed in the Mundschenk, I think something went horribly wrong
The beer is crystal clear, has a pretty decent head retention and is reasonably well carbonated, the issue is, it absolutely stinks of and has a profoundly strong taste of TCP.
I've read that this can be due to chlorine/chloramine in the water or an infection, but the reason I'm posting this in this particular thread is that I have a sneaking suspicion it's down to the Mundschenk.
I brewed a couple of batches of mead at the same time (not in the Mundschenk), used the same water (tap, left to stand overnight to get rid of the chlorine) and that smells and tastes fine. I'm fairly certain it's not down to the water.
I scrupulously cleaned and sterilised everything as always, used Milton tablets as always and made sure there was little to no residue left in the bottles from sterilising.
The only thing I didn't thoroughly scrub was the Mundschenk, it was brand new and I assumed that since I was boiling the wort, there would be no issues.
Do Klarstein flush their kettles out with chlorine or some such after production?
I'm days away from doing my third brew in the Mundschenk and I'm a little apprehensive now that it could be making the beer taste like disinfectant.
The beer is crystal clear, has a pretty decent head retention and is reasonably well carbonated, the issue is, it absolutely stinks of and has a profoundly strong taste of TCP.
I've read that this can be due to chlorine/chloramine in the water or an infection, but the reason I'm posting this in this particular thread is that I have a sneaking suspicion it's down to the Mundschenk.
I brewed a couple of batches of mead at the same time (not in the Mundschenk), used the same water (tap, left to stand overnight to get rid of the chlorine) and that smells and tastes fine. I'm fairly certain it's not down to the water.
I scrupulously cleaned and sterilised everything as always, used Milton tablets as always and made sure there was little to no residue left in the bottles from sterilising.
The only thing I didn't thoroughly scrub was the Mundschenk, it was brand new and I assumed that since I was boiling the wort, there would be no issues.
Do Klarstein flush their kettles out with chlorine or some such after production?
I'm days away from doing my third brew in the Mundschenk and I'm a little apprehensive now that it could be making the beer taste like disinfectant.
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Little to no Milton residue suggests some! This could be your cause, what did the beer taste like before you bottled it?
I only use chlorine based agents when cleaning really grotty bottles after thorough bulk decontamination using detergent and then would use PBW, rinse out and then starsan before filling bottles. Normal bottles just get pbw rinse and then starsan.
I'm not sure that a phenolic yeast contaminant would make a TCP taste, but await others views re this.
I doubt that the kettle would have been cleaned with chlorine pre sales as this could damage the stainless and would serve no purpose at all.
I only use chlorine based agents when cleaning really grotty bottles after thorough bulk decontamination using detergent and then would use PBW, rinse out and then starsan before filling bottles. Normal bottles just get pbw rinse and then starsan.
I'm not sure that a phenolic yeast contaminant would make a TCP taste, but await others views re this.
I doubt that the kettle would have been cleaned with chlorine pre sales as this could damage the stainless and would serve no purpose at all.
