How to : Build a PID temperature control

[Northern Brewer]

Thanks NB. Will this control 2 elements?

The PID with SSR output should control two SSR if you wire the control in parallel, I asked the same question on one of the threads. Each SSR then controls one element each.

here's an element wiring diagram that I'm in the process of implementing as soon as I get around to saw holes in the metal box for all the PIDS etc. No guarantees its 100% correct - user beware etc etc :whistle:

 

[bobsbeer]

Looks good NB. Thanks. Your plan is a bit more ambitious than mine. I am going with a bog standard 1 boiler with 2 elements which will double up as HLT and Copper. I may add an extra PID and extra PT100 to initially monitor the cooler box MT, but if space and OH allows add a seperate Copper. I would only need to add a couple of SSR's. My equipment will have to be set up in the kitchen and afterwards packed away, so nice shiny pumped brewery is out of the question not to mention the afordability. :

 

[Northern Brewer]

If your having to pack it away each time then the "Really Useful" box I used for the prototype are waterproof and quite strong being made out of polypropylene and not too difficult to cut so are ideal for mobile PID use. Some plastic boxes are quite fragile and crack easily. They're sold all over the place including Staples but you can probably get them cheaper elsewhere.

If you haven't got a heatsink for your SSRs then I would bolt them to a bit of aluminium plate. It's not a bad even if you do have a heatsink, I'm bolting my heatsink/SSRs to an ali plate.

Cheers
NB

 

[bobsbeer]

Making it all up into a box was my intention and having 2 x 13amp sockets to plug the boiler into was my plan. I haven't ordered the pids or ssrs yet so will get the ones with heatsinks. Then bolt them to a ali plate inside the box. How much heat do the things generate? Is a cooling fan really needed? Not used one before so all this is new to me.

Thanks,

 

[Northern Brewer]

Making it all up into a box was my intention and having 2 x 13amp sockets to plug the boiler into was my plan. I haven't ordered the pids or ssrs yet so will get the ones with heatsinks. Then bolt them to a ali plate inside the box. How much heat do the things generate? Is a cooling fan really needed? Not used one before so all this is new to me.

Thanks,

Not sure yet BB, didn't get very warm while testing however that was just heating a kettle full not 80 litres of water. I guess the heatsink should be cooler than the element

I'm guessing that with a heatsink and adequate ventilation your probably OK without a fan however I bought a small mains one from fleabay for a few quid just in case.

Cheers
NB

 

[bobsbeer]

Thanks NB. Keep us posted when you have it working in anger re the heat issue. If needed I can add a fan.

 

[mhewitson]

How do you connect the PT100 probe into your boiler ?
Im looking to make a start on going AG, and making a boiler (with PID control) will be the start, and at least I can do extract brews until I have a Mash Tun ready...

 

[Wendy1971]

we used a 15mm tank connector through the boiler wall then a 15-10mm end feed reducer and soldered a brass nut with an 8mm thread in the end

 

[bobsbeer]

Finally got all the pieces from China :party: and started the build.

I have got all the components fitted and now just need to wire everything up.

Decided in the end to control one heater element although the HLT will have 2, but thought the other could be switched off manually once it neared the right temp. Rather than go with regular sockets I am using Euro plugs both for the in and out. The only problem I am having is locating a 3 pin DIN male plug to connect in the PT100, but I think one is now on it's way. That way I can disconnect all the leads when packing up.

 

[Mark1964]

have you tried maplins or virtual village?

 

[bobsbeer]

I haven't tried Maplins but they will my next port of call if the next plug is too small. I was under the total misunderstanding that DIN was a standard. But I now have 4 Mini DIN plugs which were just described a DIN plugs. Never mind they can go into my box of bits for the next project.

 

[Svarrogh]

Will you use a cable from computer power supply? I've tried that and mine started to melt with 2kw heater.

 

[Mark1964]

You need heavy duty cable for elements or the same cable used from a kettle if your using the kettles element

 

[tazuk]

no whay pc leads :shock:
you need these i get mine from rs :thumb:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/iec-connectors/0426468/

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/iec-conne ... 4E4F4E4526

 

[bobsbeer]

Not using PC leads, but am using hot condition kettle leads. I plan to take the 13amp plug off and replace with a Euro male plug to connect onto the PID.

 

[Mark1964]

it might have been easier for you to put your 240v ssr supply through the side of your box using a cable gland. Then just a plug in cable for your element lead. Maplins do sell 3 pin din plugs we got ours there and we got the din chassis there too 3 quid each i think

 

[tazuk]

hi got a bit board tonight so i had a play :rofl: not that type of play :nono:
here it goes one opon a time there was a knackerd pc power supply all by its self so i had a play this wot i did :thumb:

all i got to do is mount some perspex front mount pid and wire
wots do ya think :thumb:

 

[bobsbeer]

Ok I need some help. I have wired up my REX C100 pid and powered up. The pid turns on and then goes to a top display of flashing oooo. Which according to my instructions says is an error code for 'The wire is disconnected at Inputting, the polarity is connected inversely or above input range'. Is the inputting the PT100? I have checked the live 240v feed is correct. Or is that about the connection of the PT100? That just seems to have 1 red and 2 blue wires, which I have connected to Terminal 8 = Red wire, Terminal 9 = Blue wire and Terminal 10 = Blue wire. Is that correct? What does it mean for 'above input range'?

Thanks for your help.

 

[tazuk]

here is a data sheet may be of some help :thumb:

http://www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/d ... 00inst.pdf

here is another one have alook at both :thumb:
http://www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/pdf_ma ... zc21e1.pdf

 

[Mark1964]

try it this way
the live on ours is the top wires and if you have the same pt100 we have its only the red wire that matters the 2 blues go in any order on the next 2 screws