herms rims or just stay as we are

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Thats weird Jim We already have a solar pump we thought that they were unsuitable for a herms as they get clogged with grain bits. If your 100% sure i wont sell it and will try it out. Is there any way you use your pump, ie on the same level etc does it pump uphill enough as we brew in the kitchen at present some pots on units some on floor. Could you put up a link to any pictures you have of the little bugger in action. Thanks
 
I pump just over a 500mm head, but it will go higher.
Had it clog once, traced the fault to the grain filter, not happend since.
You do need to to match the pump rate to the flow from the MT, I use both variable voltage and a by-pass valve.
 
P1020250a.jpg


Ignor the yellow HERMS unit, it was my 1st attempt, the current one only holds 2 litres.
The by-pass valve is shown fully open which means the pump will recirculate and not deliver to the HERMS.
In the fully closed position the pump will deliver it's entire out put to the HERMS.
My set up requires that I run at about 10v and the valve half open.
This was purely set up for the pic, so no other control is shown!
 
evanvine said:
The flow rate of your pump needs setting to your Mash Tun's drain rate, every setup will be different, nay every mash will be different!

And with your "sight gauge" you will be able to see the level, clever ;) :D

"They're coming to take me away, ha ha!"
No not for a while with ideas like that. :lol:

S
 
Something I am investigating with my kit, but I quote the Master, (A that is ;) ) from up post.

"I use around 3L per Kilo . . . although I also go up to 3.5L per Kilo.

Flow rate not really measured it, but certainly around 2L per minute . . . "

S
 
so lets see if i get this right recipe altered mash to grain ratio to 3 litres per kilo fill mash tun with correct amount of water at strike temp. Leave 10 mins to settle set temp start pump at correct flow rate leave at desired temp for 90 mins. Test runnings from recirc into mash tun. If low enough drain into boiler but is there any sparge involved or has it already been sorted by the herms?? Have i missed anything out??
 
mark1964 said:
so lets see if i get this right recipe altered mash to grain ratio to 3 litres per kilo fill mash tun with correct amount of water at strike temp. Leave 10 mins to settle set temp start pump at correct flow rate leave at desired temp for 90 mins.

Yes that's about it. I recirculate at full flow to let system heat up to desired temperature. Ideally get grain to a known,constant temperature, allowing desired mash temperature to be hit reliably.


mark1964 said:
Test runnings from recirc into mash tun. If low enough drain into boiler but is there any sparge involved or has it already been sorted by the herms?? Have i missed anything out??

Not following this bit. :? But after 90 mins, sparging is still required ;) I use the pump by pass to control how much of the flow is then directed into the boiler :D

Once the element is covered on it goes, with the HE turned up to help with the heating up to boiling temperature. :D

S
 
I see sorry so when recirculating has done 90 mins then sparge the grain and obviously drain into boiler what do u mean by how much of the flow dont u just sparge as normal and straight into boiler
 
evanvine said:
If you pump at a preset rate you are risking a set mash.
You can only pump at the rate the mash alows.
Unless you are pumping slowly enough that it does not exceed the draining of the mash screen.

This is one reason why False bottoms are better for HERMS . . . you can get a faster drain rate. . . . I've not noticed too much variation between mashes . . . One I was really worried about was my Wheat beer, and yet that recirculated fine . . . OK I did use Oat hulls to assist with draining.

I suspect my flow rate may be higher than I quoted . . . as it certainly does not take 25 minutes to get between rests . . . more like 8-10 . . . And I do not count the step time as part of the rest time . . . So it's rest for 30 minutes, 10 minutes to raise the temp, and then 60 minute rest . . . 10 minutes to get to mash out . . . Start transfer and sparge.

I also underlet my mash tun (And stirring well afterwards is important here . . . also starting underletting slowly, for the first quarter of the liquor . . then speeding it up), and do not pre heat the tun (OK it is (they are) a Thermobox) . . . But do calculate the 'strike' temp based on grain temp and volume (using promash) . . . I also put the mash tun in the airing cupboard overnight to try and warm the grain a bit. . . . Mash temp is normally hit spot on . . . certainly it stabilises fairly quickly.

Also just because you have a HERMS does not meant that you have to use it, most of my ales are single infusion mashed . . . I just recirculate using the HERMS at the end of the mash to clarify the wort a bit . . . Mainly to remove the chunks . . . Crystal clear wort is not a requirement for me.
 
As usual A, top post. :D Points well made as JIm Royle would say ;)
I will be putting a measuring jug, after the HE, next time I'm in action. ;)
I hope to have a temp measured device on the mash tun out line, next time. ;)
As regards "false bottoms" I have one of muddydisco's RR jobs with a lot of space below it, which I will measure, maybe I'm pumping to hard. :?
I may be brewing Christmas afternoon to escape the celebrations. (Don't think Mrs.S will go with this) :lol:
S
 
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