Help with equipment purchase please.

[-Bezza-]

Just saying that the equipment you need for kits will also be used for all grain. You waste nothing by (re)starting there.

 

[Sadfield]

I started experimenting with home brew about 7 years ago buying kits from the like of Wilko and a local (now closed) brew shop. I wasn't getting the results I had hoped for, the beer was drinkable but nothing special

First paragraph. Time and money would be lost, if the end result would never be satisfactory.

 

[MashBag]

Most people start with kits, move onto biab then onto all grain as they perfect each stage. If I were you, I'd go back to kits - the fermentation vessel and other gubbins will all be of use down the line. Perfect the fermentation side as much as you can, then figure out where you want to go from there.

Tbh, I think fermentation is the bit people neglect the most.

 

[MashBag]

The Braumeister is just an over priced BIAB, they operate on the same AIO principle.

Look a bit closer.

 

[-Bezza-]

First paragraph. Time and money would be lost, if the end result would never be satisfactory.

You assume the unsatisfactory results were due to the use of kits rather than poor fermentation. OP doesn't appear to have produced anything he's happy with but we're only guessing as to the reasons.

 

[Madhouse]

Tbh, I think fermentation is the bit people neglect the most.

This. It made a huge difference for me and all you need is a temp controller, cheap tube heater and a cheap/free fridge off facebook/ebay.

There's so many factors in brewing that can impact the final beer though. Advice to the OP would be to get whatever kit you want/can afford and then document your brewing process so that if you get a good result you can repeat it, or if it's less good then you have a reference to share so that we can give you pointers on where to make changes - 'I made a beer and didn't like it' just means we all guess as to the reasons and it doesn't help you at all.

 

[hoppyscotty]

If I were you I’d get one of the cheaper AIO system and put the bulk of your kit budget into a fermenter and maybe a decent chiller. Wether it’s a brew monk/Brewzilla/grainfather, won’t impact things greatly if at all so ultimately doesn’t matter….all your doing is making sugary water. But fermentation is the part where beer is actually produced. Everything ahead of that is just setting the stage. So temp control and ideally the ability to do closed transfers to a keg is ideal. Can’t go wrong with a fermzilla or similar really and you can make a fermentation cabinet with an old fridge and a few other bits and bobs for under £50.

Also YouTube channels such as David Heath and The Homebrew Network, plus others have been invaluable for me on my journey so far.

 

[MashBag]

I wouldn't agree with that.
Silk purse pigs eat etc.
Sugary water indeed. (head in hands emoji)

Fermenters do not need to cost more than £20 but they do need temp control.

In the UK you don't need ss fermentation vessel or a chiller or a crusher... They are later decisions.

If you beer machine, doesn't make good mash, either because if the terrible build, Ditto controller or just a pain in the aperture you will give up on it. The AIO is where you spend the most time. So sirens the most money.

 

[MashBag]

There are people that don't use fermentation vessels at all plastic or stainless!

 

[jof]

I would also add, start with an beer style that is simple and suited to your local water.

So for me that's Kent/Sussex golden ales & London Porter.

There is no way I could do Yorkshire bitter or any midland milds without having to change the water profile.
I just want to add my Camden tablet to remove chlorine & go.

 

[Ray Porter]

Fermenters do not need to cost more than £20 but they do need temp control.

As I do not have a fermenting chamber what are your thoughts on an inkbird with a heat belt or pad until I source a fridge? I guess the inkbird will be useable in the fridge too but I have never used a belt or pad so not sure on the effectiveness of them.

 

[Andy44]

Anybody used one of these for brewing, or am i totally out of the box.

 

[hoppyscotty]

I wouldn't agree with that.
Silk purse pigs eat etc.
Sugary water indeed. (head in hands emoji)

Fermenters do not need to cost more than £20 but they do need temp control.

In the UK you don't need ss fermentation vessel or a chiller or a crusher... They are later decisions.

If you beer machine, doesn't make good mash, either because if the terrible build, Ditto controller or just a pain in the aperture you will give up on it. The AIO is where you spend the most time. So sirens the most money.

I think my recommendations on the fermentation side were limited to temp control and, as an ‘if you can manage it’ pressure transfer: as for the mash process what other than sugary water is ‘wort’? I think us brewers often bestow ourselves with greater contributions to the overall process our actual contribution deserves.

 

[Sadfield]

as for the mash process what other than sugary water is ‘wort’?

Well there are easier ways to make sugary water than mashing, but it won't make beer.

 

[hoppyscotty]

Wel

Well there are easier ways to make sugary water than mashing, but it won't make beer.

what’s a dme kit then?

 

[hoppyscotty]

What

Wel

what’s a dme kit then?

o mean by that is that unless you cwant broke the malt bill recipe whatever flavour contibution you make to the beer is locked in. The rest is all about sugar extraction and th emblems of fermentable and in fermentable sugars. And that control is irrelevant of the brew system. You can, in principal, manage the mash temps in any of the mash systems available. The rest is down to fermentation. Ruined brews are usually down to the lack of control of the fermentation process rather than the mash process. The main impact of a poor mash process I likely to be not hitting your target ABV. But you’re, more often than not, end up with a perfectly drinkable beer. And if that’s the case then everything is alright in the world!

 

[Sadfield]

Wel

what’s a dme kit then?

DME is result of mashing.

 

[jof]

Anybody used one of these for brewing, or am i totally out of the box. View attachment 89086

It's possible but you need to be careful of:
How to clean out debris from the water level tube.
The basic plastic taps can be dodgy (people normally refit with metal food grade ball valve taps)
Does it have a single or dual element, as boiling on a single 3kw element with only basic temperature control can be quite tricky.

You might want to also look at the simpler end of dedicated beer equipment eg second hand or 'b' grade klarstein fullhorn - (other brands available).
That gets you metal ball valve tap, dual switchable elements and a false bottom for BIAB.

You should be able to pick one up second hand if you are patient, as people often use these as a stepping stone before they jump to expensive all in one systems

 

[MashBag]

As I do not have a fermenting chamber what are your thoughts on an inkbird with a heat belt or pad until I source a fridge? I guess the inkbird will be useable in the fridge too but I have never used a belt or pad so not sure on the effectiveness of them.

Spot on choice.
I have 3 inkbirds. They do all sorts of things. Heating pads work well. You do need about 30w to 50w in the heat pad. A probably a cover. Sleeping bags with well.

Of you can find a place that keeps a steady 19/20c that's ideal.

Heating is much easier than cooling. In the uk, it's nice to have cooling in Aug or a heatwave. For the other 11 months of the year it does not matter really.

 

[MashBag]

Anybody used one of these for brewing, or am i totally out of the box. View attachment 89086

With any machine, the question is "how much does it do for you?"

This boils the water. Tick.
Does it, hold accurate temps, hold steps, have the right fittings, contain the grain, pump. Etc etc... No

In vehicle terms we are not talking about a skoda or a lotus. It's a push bike.