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- Oct 13, 2020
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I've had issues with hitting FG, sometimes over shooting and sometimes undershooting. I'm not convinced its yeast related....yeast can only feed on simple sugars and for any given OG you will have a blend of simple and complex sugars as dictated by your mash process and temperature control in your mash process. Once the simple sugars have been consumed by the yeast then fermentation stops at that FG irrespective of how high your OG was. So at the moment I'm focussing alot on my mash process...ensuring I have a good overflow established so I don't have wort sat on top of the grain bed that is cooling down, trying to ensure the temp control is as good as it can be. I'm even considering converting my Brewzilla temperature control into a RIMS system rather than the bottom heating element system that I find to be very variable and not very controllable leading to a temp gradient down the grain bed and variable extraction. I think the aspect ratio of the Brewzilla is not optimal...it really needs to be a short wide aspect ratio instead of the tall, thin shape.
Also I'm messing about with step mashes too, so a portion of the mash at lower temp before ramping up to try to control the mix of sugar type in the wort more accurately. Also now only use the 500w element during the mash and find that I get tighter control that way and its still good enough to heat up and maintain temperature...at least as well as I can tell from the display. To be fair in the BZ instructions it does say to only use the 500w element when the malt pipe is in situ, so sometimes pays to read the instructions.
But as for general process, I usually do leave the beer in the fermenter for a good week after fermentation has finished and before cold crashing to make sure any compounds are processed and for lagers ensure I do a decent diacetyl rest. Best to be safer than sorry with these things.
Also I'm messing about with step mashes too, so a portion of the mash at lower temp before ramping up to try to control the mix of sugar type in the wort more accurately. Also now only use the 500w element during the mash and find that I get tighter control that way and its still good enough to heat up and maintain temperature...at least as well as I can tell from the display. To be fair in the BZ instructions it does say to only use the 500w element when the malt pipe is in situ, so sometimes pays to read the instructions.
But as for general process, I usually do leave the beer in the fermenter for a good week after fermentation has finished and before cold crashing to make sure any compounds are processed and for lagers ensure I do a decent diacetyl rest. Best to be safer than sorry with these things.