tommos76
Well-Known Member
What's the best way to go about it as I'm a total novice .Do I add some wort to a jug first then transfer that to the fv?
Thanks
Martin
Thanks
Martin
I have rehydrated my yeast for my last two AG brews, and within 24 hours it was going like a rocket and the airlock was bubbling out of the top. Within another 12 hours the airlock activity had subsided, and a thick krausen had formed, so I'm convinced this is a vast improvement over sprinkling dry yeast.What's the best way to go about it as I'm a total novice .Do I add some wort to a jug first then transfer that to the fv?
Thanks
Martin
Spot on. Don't forget to top-crop your yeast for subsequent brews, by the way. Cropped yeast can be kept in the fridge for two weeks (or more, but it will deteriorate) and it is already hydrated, of course. You can do this for four or five generations and save yourself a fortune. You can't carry on ad infinitum without a basic yeast lab as mutant strains will become more obvious and and there's an increasing possibility of infection.I have rehydrated my yeast for my last two AG brews, and within 24 hours it was going like a rocket and the airlock was bubbling out of the top. Within another 12 hours the airlock activity had subsided, and a thick krausen had formed, so I'm convinced this is a vast improvement over sprinkling dry yeast.
The way I rehydrate is to boil some water and let it cool to 38 degrees C, then pitch the yeast directly onto this. Cover and leave for 15 mins, then stir with sterilised spoon until creamy, then leave for another 5 minutes. The water ratio I use is 10 x the amount of yeast (g/ml)...i.e. for 11g yeast, pitch into 110ml water. When pitching into the FV, try to have the yeast mixture match the temperature of the wort as closely as possible. Then sit back and let the magic happen!
Unfortunately the density doesn't help all that much as mixing is surprisingly quick, but it isn't a problem except with super high hop saturation things in my experience. Neipa etcI have one fermenter which notoriously shows low airlock activity. The seal on the lid is probably the cause, but beer out of it has never been a problem. CO2 is 1.7 times denser than air so removing airlocks to clean or replace liquid shouldn't ever be a problem if done gently and slowly.
You can do a closed loop without any pressure but it takes a while. I use about 3psi pressure into a keg or ss conical usually without needing to hold anything. Bit of tape?I managed to have my first go at closed transfer to a keg today. I transferred from the racking cane to the beer quick disconnect. On the carboy cap I installed a carbonation cap to connect the co2. I've been watching a couple of videos which says I can set co2 at 2 psi but found that if I kept the co2 on the cap was blowing off!
To summarise the next time I do it I will try and find a way of keeping the racking cane straight and keep my hand on the co2 and turn it on and off when needed . Has anyone else tried this procedure and have any pointers?
MartunView attachment 18778 View attachment 18780
View attachment 18778 View attachment 18779 View attachment 18780
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