Head retention

[Twopan]

I brew Belgian style beers using BIAB method. I have cracked better efficiency and hitting target OG. However I would like to improve head retention. I am careful to avoid washing up liquid residue in vessels and glasses etc but still don't get a long-lasting head. I have seen additives for sale but would appreciate recommendations before using anything. I am reluctant to add stuff at the end of fermentation and stir, as this must increase risk of infection and/or too much oxygen before bottling?

 

[Agentgonzo]

Fats can also inhibit head retention as well as detergents. I keep a separate washing up sponge for use on my brewing kit rather than using the one in the kitchen sink and keep bottle brushes away from the general washing up (whether this actually has any effect I don't know).

Oddly, my witbiers have poor head retention (which flies in the face of "wheat gives you better head retention" advice ). I find that I get the best head retention from beers with larger hop additions and the ones where I've used a shorter boil. Fortunately, head retention doesn't affect the flavour so isn't something I'm hugely fussed about

 

[Sadfield]

There's a few tips in this, for Belgian beers.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/beerandbrewing.com/amp/belgian-beer-youre-probably-doing-it-wrong/
Generally, this pretty much covers it all you need to know about foam. Cross reference it with your process to remove or reduce any negatives where possible, and additions shouldn't be necessary.

 

[Sadfield]

Fortunately, head retention doesn't affect the flavour

Does it not?

https://kingsofbrewing.com/why-foam-in-your-beer-is-good-for-you-the-science-behind-it/
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1094/ASBCJ-41-0019?journalCode=ujbc20

 

[Twopan]

There's a few tips in this, for Belgian beers.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/beerandbrewing.com/amp/belgian-beer-youre-probably-doing-it-wrong/
Generally, this pretty much covers it all you need to know about foam. Cross reference it with your process to remove or reduce any negatives where possible, and additions shouldn't be necessary.

View attachment 87338

Thanks!

 

[Twopan]

Thanks. Reading the articles one tip seems to go back to this alpha v beta amylase thing. Joe Strange recommends a step mash, at it's simplest, where you mash at say 62C for 30 minutes to get the beta working its magic, and then whack the heat up to 69C for another 30 minutes to embrace the alpha action. To improve my efficiency I have previously resorted to mashing lower and longer, 90 minutes, at 62C, which has helped me hit c. 68% efficiency in BIAB. Perhaps next time I'll try this step mash approach to see if it makes any difference to head retention whilst hopefully keeping my efficiency acceptable.

 

[Agentgonzo]

Thanks. Reading the articles one tip seems to go back to this alpha v beta amylase thing. Joe Strange recommends a step mash, at it's simplest, where you mash at say 62C for 30 minutes to get the beta working its magic, and then whack the heat up to 69C for another 30 minutes to embrace the alpha action. To improve my efficiency I have previously resorted to mashing lower and longer, 90 minutes, at 62C, which has helped me hit c. 68% efficiency in BIAB. Perhaps next time I'll try this step mash approach to see if it makes any difference to head retention whilst hopefully keeping my efficiency acceptable.

I do step mashes most of the time now (it's easy with modern AIOs). I can't say I've noticed any difference in head retention, but it varies from brew to brew anyway so really hard to judge.

 

[Jim Brewster]

In my experience mashing hotter above 65C, closer to 70C, improves head retention a lot.

 

[Caramel Ox]

In the list above a protein rest is considered “foam negative” yet essential per the other link for Belgian beers, so it isn’t so clear.

Just from personal experience avoiding over-fining I think has helped, and avoid making any judgement until several weeks in the bottle.

 

[Agentgonzo]

Just from personal experience avoiding over-fining I think has helped, and avoid making any judgement until several weeks in the bottle.

It's not conclusive, but think I get the same with my beers. I tend to 'test' one of the bottles as soon as a PET bottle has reached desired pressure and dropped mostly clear - about a week after bottling. It's never as heady as bottles opened much later

 

[starseeker]

I find that the beers i brew with carapils seem to have a decent head

 

[The Baron]

I use carapils and wheat sometimes to aid retention.
It is possible to buy heading fluid to add at kegging/bottling time too

 

[Sadfield]

In the list above a protein rest is considered “foam negative” yet essential per the other link for Belgian beers, so it isn’t so clear.

I'd say it's reasonably clear. Whilst protein rests may be considered foam negative, Joe Stange makes it clear that is in conjunction with undermodified malt, which as foam positive. As are the use of hops and bottle conditioning, that he also advises.

 

[MashBag]

In the list above a protein rest is considered “foam negative” yet essential per the other link for Belgian beers, so it isn’t so clear.

Just from personal experience avoiding over-fining I think has helped, and avoid making any judgement until several weeks in the bottle.

Most foams need protein to retain the bubbles. Aviation Crash teams and Fire & rescue services use 'protein foam' when they want frothy foam and not just a fine film.

So a protein rest (and I have proved it myself) is indeed "foam negative. I tried it to get rid of a protein chill haze - it never did , but lost the head.

 

[Agentgonzo]

I tried it to get rid of a protein chill haze - it never did , but lost the head

Good to know. I keep thinking of trying that as I get chill haze but never got around to it. I guess I won't need to worry about it now

 

[MashBag]

It you come up with some good ideas let me know. Perhaps this is another thread?