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The other job I had for today was to transfer my sour to secondary and add the raspberry purée.

Final gravity was 1004 so another quite dry finish. This is the first time I’ve used this yeast (Philly Sour) so I wasn’t sure quite where it would end up. The yeast is supposed to attenuate to between 80% and 85% but this one ended up at 90%. Again a clear beer with a thin and fairly soft yeast cake.

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This is what the beer looks like at this point. Because I’ve never brewed a sour or used this yeast I had no idea where the pH would end up but I’ve read it should be 3.00 to 3.60. The pH of mine is 3.06 so is in range but might be a little more sour than I would choose. Lallemand do say though that a higher fermentation temperature will result in a more sour beer.
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Having transferred the beer to secondary I added 2 litres of raspberry purée resulting in a pink and slightly mucky looking beer. It now needs to ferment for another week before being kegged.
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The Belgian Tripel is kegged.

As with the other beers in this tranche, attenuation is at the high end and the beer in the fermenter looks clean and bright. The ABV for this Tripel is 8.14%.

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The beer is a nice golden-yellow colour with a typical Belgian aroma. The flavour is good - I get a slightly sweet impression from the malt with some peppery phenols and a light pithy orange zest. Medium bitterness becomes more apparent at the end together with a slight warmth from the alcohol.

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The Belgian Tripel is kegged.

As with the other beers in this tranche, attenuation is at the high end and the beer in the fermenter looks clean and bright. The ABV for this Tripel is 8.14%.

View attachment 56857 View attachment 56855

The beer is a nice golden-yellow colour with a typical Belgian aroma. The flavour is good - I get a slightly sweet impression from the malt with some peppery phenols and a light pithy orange zest. Medium bitterness becomes more apparent at the end together with a slight warmth from the alcohol.

View attachment 56856
Is that a CML hop bag tied over the end of your filter there to keep some of the sediment / floaters back? That’s an idea I should maybe copy, although presumably sediment that settled out in the FV will fairly quickly settle out in the keg too…
 
Is that a CML hop bag tied over the end of your filter there to keep some of the sediment / floaters back? That’s an idea I should maybe copy, although presumably sediment that settled out in the FV will fairly quickly settle out in the keg too…

I think I actually got this from Amazon as a pack of 5. For these beers the filter isn’t really needed but it does no harm so I use it anyway. It is of course more useful for dry-hopped beers.
 
Do you get any off flavour or alcohol burn with fermenting at the high end of the temperature range.
I normally start low and ramp,I know this might not be an option when your fermenting 4 beers together.
 
Do you get any off flavour or alcohol burn with fermenting at the high end of the temperature range.
I normally start low and ramp,I know this might not be an option when your fermenting 4 beers together.
This is the first time I’ve fermented four beers at the same time and at 26C throughout but so far, no off flavours whatever and no alcohol burn.

It’s possible I’ve been lucky with the specific strains of yeasts I’m using, the starting gravity not being especially high, or down to the sugar composition of the wort. They are different though across the four beers so I’d have thought this unlikely.

I think the low start and ramp up is maybe more important for lager yeast where you don’t want any esters and phenols from higher fermentation temperatures to spoil the clean crisp flavour but you also need to encourage the yeast to clean up diacetyl towards the end of fermentation.
 
This is the first time I’ve fermented four beers at the same time and at 26C throughout but so far, no off flavours whatever and no alcohol burn.

It’s possible I’ve been lucky with the specific strains of yeasts I’m using, the starting gravity not being especially high, or down to the sugar composition of the wort. They are different though across the four beers so I’d have thought this unlikely.

I think the low start and ramp up is maybe more important for lager yeast where you don’t want any esters and phenols from higher fermentation temperatures to spoil the clean crisp flavour but you also need to encourage the yeast to clean up diacetyl towards the end of fermentation.
I plan to bottle condition my Tripel just trying to squeeze a couple of more points out of it. It's currently down at 1.014 from 1.084. 82% attenuation which is in the mid range for the wlp550. I may have to add some yeast when bottling. I need to get the carbonation on the high end to make the beer light and cut the sweetness.
 
The other job I had for today was to transfer my sour to secondary and add the raspberry purée.

Final gravity was 1004 so another quite dry finish. This is the first time I’ve used this yeast (Philly Sour) so I wasn’t sure quite where it would end up. The yeast is supposed to attenuate to between 80% and 85% but this one ended up at 90%. Again a clear beer with a thin and fairly soft yeast cake.

View attachment 56802 View attachment 56803
This is what the beer looks like at this point. Because I’ve never brewed a sour or used this yeast I had no idea where the pH would end up but I’ve read it should be 3.00 to 3.60. The pH of mine is 3.06 so is in range but might be a little more sour than I would choose. Lallemand do say though that a higher fermentation temperature will result in a more sour beer.
View attachment 56804 View attachment 56805
Having transferred the beer to secondary I added 2 litres of raspberry purée resulting in a pink and slightly mucky looking beer. It now needs to ferment for another week before being kegged.
View attachment 56806

Looking great 👍🏻

I think the lower PH you have could be due to the higher sugar content. Just something I’ve read. Mine finished at 1.006, but it was after the fruit was fermented in secondary, so very similar to your primary reading.

Confessions - I didn’t take a reading after primary, I made an educated guess with the help of brewfather lol 🙈
 
Looking great 👍🏻

I think the lower PH you have could be due to the higher sugar content. Just something I’ve read. Mine finished at 1.006, but it was after the fruit was fermented in secondary, so very similar to your primary reading.

Confessions - I didn’t take a reading after primary, I made an educated guess with the help of brewfsther lol 🙈
I calculated that the fruit would add another 3 points and once fermented out will add 0.4% abv. I didn’t think to re-check the gravity after adding the fruit though. Shame. As long as the end result is nice I’m sure I’ll get over it! ;)
 
I plan to bottle condition my Tripel just trying to squeeze a couple of more points out of it. It's currently down at 1.014 from 1.084. 82% attenuation which is in the mid range for the wlp550. I may have to add some yeast when bottling. I need to get the carbonation on the high end to make the beer light and cut the sweetness.
What temperature is it at now? You could try raising the temperature a tad if you’re at the lower end.
 
I have another small project - yay!

When I refitted my brew-shed and installed a set of taps, kegs, and all the associated plumbing I fitted a mounting board for the taps that had room for 7 taps. I actually fitted 6 thinking that would be enough but the un-used space has been playing on my ever-so-slightly OCD mind ever since. This is the empty space I’m talking about.

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One of the folk on the forum was selling a flow-control Intertap tap and as it matches my other 6 I bought it. It arrived yesterday.🤩
 
First up put all the bits in a hot strong solution of sodium percarbonate for a good soak.

Next remove the beer mats around the area where the new tap will go and mark up where the hole is to be drilled.

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The hole is 22mm and I’m using a bit of brown paper to catch all the waste so there’s less clearing up to do after.

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The hole is then drilled from the outside to leave a clean hole but not drilled right through, I want to also drill from the inside to leave a clean hole inside too. The hole is drilled just deep enough for the centre of the drill bit to break through and show where the hole is to be drilled from the inside.

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Same paper bag trick to catch the waste and drill the hole from the inside to finish the job.
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