Going back to kits...

[Griff097]

Yeah exactly, I'll often save those yeast packs from the kits and pitch 2 together though, because they are usually not even enough to make the 4% beer the kit is for and I usually aim for 5-6% with my beers (or I use a single pack in a 10L ginger ale or cider. It's not bad yeast it's just often under pitched.

How long you boil for is completely up to you, I just did 20 minutes because it was the end of another brew day, I had everything set up already so I just disolved the syrup, threw some hops in, topped up with water and boiled and transferred. In this instance it added almost no time to my brew day and got me 10 more litres of beer in my keg.

Do you have a favorite, go to yeast or does it depend on beer style?

 

[Griff097]

A good yeast can have a huge impact on the final result but it does depend on what you are making

I have noticed with the AG kits I have had every single one has had a different yars even similar beers, Porters etc

 

[Nidger]

If I could get the same deals on kits here in the states you people across the pond seem too get I'd be tempted to do more kits.

Average Coopers can here is $21 USD, about 16 pounds.

That's actually not to bad.
Although my American family always said take dollars as pounds so £21 for a coopers kit is harsh.
Not sure if this holds true.
That said, if you enjoy doing it, prefer it and save money, it's a win win win situation.

As regards kits v all grain, I've got the utmost respect for the professional types on here, but it will never be for me for a few reasons, and whatever you brew, as long as you enjoy the process or the outcome, or better still, both.
Keep on going.

 

[Bzee]

What about water, as in AG always has boiled water meaning chlorine is gassed off and minerals do what ever they do when water gets hot - kettle scale type stuff. But when I did kits I used to run 20 litres of water from tap to fv. So maybe the chlorine did bad things to beerkit - whatever reactively inclined chemicals like chlorine do

 

[Frisp]

What about water, as in AG always has boiled water meaning chlorine is gassed off and minerals do what ever they do when water gets hot - kettle scale type stuff. But when I did kits I used to run 20 litres of water from tap to fv. So maybe the chlorine did bad things to beerkit - whatever reactively inclined chemicals like chlorine do

Half a crushed Camden Tablet for every 30L of water will remove the chlorine and the resultant disinfectant taste from your brew. As for water quality having teh righht water profile for the brew will always make a difference,

 

[dad_of_jon]

I don't do kits or AG, generally dme extract. I will pimp a kit up or do a partial grain. Time,space and equipment dictate my type of brewing and the results suit me. A reduced hop boil makes an extract brew in nearer to a kit when it comes to time vs AG.

My partial grain ris-key business was a brewdog HB finalist in the comp they ran a few years back so I'm happy where I am with my brewing.
Sure, I'd love lots of shiny stuff, but gain some kit lose my other half

 

[Rodcx500z]

Sure, I'd love lots of shiny stuff, but gain some kit lose my other half

Is that called being over the barrel

 

[Druncan]

I've been using 25kg JC's of Muntons HLME (Extra Pale Planet) for years. Also got the same malt fine rolled for BIAB. I combine the two with steeped grains and carapils/carafoam and Dextrose.
However, If (as usual) I have no time available I run brews just from HLME/dex and steeped grains with hop tea/. (+ Hop Burst Citrulicious) See this Exploration of Post-Fermentation Hop Oil Extracts - Scott Janish
I do 120-130L batches that can be done and cleaned up in 4hrs!!!!

I have never and will never boil my HLME - it's been boiled by Muntons!!! You lose volatiles!!! But I do heat to 65*C to sanitise.
I do have water treatment filters and carbon treatment and add Campden and add CRS on light brews. This makes it easy - Quality Ingredients and Equipment Since 1994

My yeasts are always as fresh as I can get (thanks to the team @ CML) and Lallemand Novalager as it's bomb proof for me being flexible on temps.

I mainly sell all my brews and they sell out.

Nowt wrong with malt extracts, if you treat them right. IMHO

Any suggestions for improvements are welcome! as I'm still only learning,,,,