Ghillie, looking at the way your kegs are higher than the lip of the keezer, and the thickness of the lid protrusion I'm wondering what size timber your going for. I used 4 x 2 but my kegs sit lower than yours and the lid doesn't protrude as much.
Ghillie's Keezer Build Thread
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The external lip is 1", so if my joiner pal can source some of that then perfect. That gives me a total of 2" between the exterior and interior. So 5 kegs with 2" shanks may well work.
Thanks, appreciate that! It's pretty much the same size as I would like so pop it in the post if you get bored of it...
Looks like you bought local: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-22282778
It's the height, ie the distance between top of keg fittings and lid. I was just having one of those "Measure twice, cut once moments" which is a change for me, I usually cut first and then measure, usually followed by WTF.
Hi @Ghillie
Five kegs will be a tight fit, but they will fit!
Any problems removing the front kegs could be resolved by removing one of the rear kegs, "shuffling" the others around so that the front kegs move to the rear. A faff, I know, but do-able.
A less pallatable solution would be to space the taps out around three sides of the keezer so that they do no rextrict access. This will spoil the aesthetics but it would be a possible solution.
With 5 kegs, there is bound to be a couple of beers that are less popular than the others - put them to the front.
Next idea - direct from Heath Robinson! Split the front part of the collar, hinge the top half and mount your taps on that part. When a keg needs to come out, swing the tap section forward, thus getting them out of the way.
I'm ready for my medicine, nurse!
Five kegs will be a tight fit, but they will fit!
Any problems removing the front kegs could be resolved by removing one of the rear kegs, "shuffling" the others around so that the front kegs move to the rear. A faff, I know, but do-able.
A less pallatable solution would be to space the taps out around three sides of the keezer so that they do no rextrict access. This will spoil the aesthetics but it would be a possible solution.
With 5 kegs, there is bound to be a couple of beers that are less popular than the others - put them to the front.
Next idea - direct from Heath Robinson! Split the front part of the collar, hinge the top half and mount your taps on that part. When a keg needs to come out, swing the tap section forward, thus getting them out of the way.
I'm ready for my medicine, nurse!
Not such a bad idea although I'd just go for a piano hinge along the bottom of the whole front section.
Or just hinge the entire length at one end, like a hypercar door.
:thumba:Edit: Actually, just use a couple of strong magnets and the whole front could come off.
Magnets might be ok for the first couple of pints but later in the evening you might pull the front offOr just hinge the entire length at one end, like a hypercar door.
Edit: Actually, just use a couple of strong magnets and the whole front could come off.
Hi!
I was concerned about a good seal and firm adhesion. I would also worry about fixing the hinge to the freezer body, but hey! I'm a worrier!
I thought that perhaps a couple of fastenings could be fixed on the inside of the collar to hold the folding section tight when not folded.
I'd go for 10mm self tapping screws. But then again my motto is "If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much space"
Yeah it was Inverness I got it. Looks like I'm humped for spare parts
Keezer lid removed and masked with tape ahead of painting...
Sketched around the controller and drilled a really ugly 22mm hole to cut and file around.
Still ugly after filing...
First coat of satin black, couldn't find matt in B&Q so that will have to do. Not bad so far, the second and final coat later tonight.
So regarding the collar, a hinge option would be pretty cool and handy. Will have to think about the easiest way of making it functional as well as airtight...
Sketched around the controller and drilled a really ugly 22mm hole to cut and file around.
Still ugly after filing...
First coat of satin black, couldn't find matt in B&Q so that will have to do. Not bad so far, the second and final coat later tonight.
So regarding the collar, a hinge option would be pretty cool and handy. Will have to think about the easiest way of making it functional as well as airtight...
I've heard that if you wet sand satin finer than 1000 or so you get a matt finish but I'm no painter so maybe someone else can comment.
Thanks @Bigcol49, I did see a lot of Yanks doing that. Makes sense. Weather strip (or something like that I think it's called, for windows and doors) glued to the underside of the collar to seal against the top of the freezer.
The only issue with that really is how far away from the wall it will need to sit in order to open the lid. No massive drama tbh, but makes the small garage even smaller...
The only issue with that really is how far away from the wall it will need to sit in order to open the lid. No massive drama tbh, but makes the small garage even smaller...
You would need to open the full lid only rarely. You can get "castors" for heavy white goods to sit on to make it easy to move them, but that's more expense. Two steps forward, one step back!
Wilfy
Junior Member
24mm ply is what I used on mine for the collar. Less chance of warping than ‘real’ wood.
Have you thought about how you're going to lift full kegs into the freezer? I think I'll be able to fill mine in-place but will have to do some height measuring to be certain.
I want to avoid having to lift and lower them when full because one day I can see that going badly wrong.
I want to avoid having to lift and lower them when full because one day I can see that going badly wrong.
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