First brew questions from a novice

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In terms of the yeast. I rehydrated just to see last week. I’m doing a lot of cider at present.
The 5 gallon container contained juice from the same apples as the week before.
There was a marked difference.
I have no trouble with just sprinkling though.
I just wonder if it would still be advisable in colder conditions.
Polcho...thanks for your input

may seem a basic question but do you give the mix a stir after adding the yeast just to cover completely with the brew before popping the lid on to let the magic happen ?
 
few more questions :

1 - does/has anyone drilled a hole in the top of their container, fitted a rubber seal and popped a food quality thermometer through into the brew to keep a closer eye in the internal temperature ? If so, other than the mandatory cleaning and sanitising, is there anything to know or consider here ?
2 - the St Peters box says 4-6 days for completion of the fermentation cycle. Is that typical and accurate as most seem to be saying to allow 2 weeks ?
3 - heat pads...am i right in thinking that they heat to typically +2c the existing outside/ambient temperature ?
 
few more questions :

1 - does/has anyone drilled a hole in the top of their container, fitted a rubber seal and popped a food quality thermometer through into the brew to keep a closer eye in the internal temperature ? If so, other than the mandatory cleaning and sanitising, is there anything to know or consider here ?
2 - the St Peters box says 4-6 days for completion of the fermentation cycle. Is that typical and accurate as most seem to be saying to allow 2 weeks ?
3 - heat pads...am i right in thinking that they heat to typically +2c the existing outside/ambient temperature ?
Hi Mate,
Q1 - I've seen reference to inserting a tube into the brew with a thermometer in the tube. If you search on here you'll find a post with it mentioned. Personally I wouldn't do it, something else to worry about. When I started back into this last year I used a heat pad and put a blanket over my fermenter to keep the heat in. Gave it blasts with the heat pad and kept an eye on the stick on thermometer I had. Probably not the best method but it worked fine. I now have an ink bird which sits outside but insulated against the barrel. Also have an ispindle inside...very little temp difference between the two so I'm confident the outside probe is quite accurate.

Q2 - fermentation can finish quickly, but let the yeast clean up the beer. I typically leave my brews 10-14 days before bottling - typically down to when I can get the time to bottle.

Enjoy the fun👍
 
Polcho...thanks for your input

may seem a basic question but do you give the mix a stir after adding the yeast just to cover completely with the brew before popping the lid on to let the magic happen ?
Well, it says so sprinkle, stirring not required. However, as it was now a liquid, I stirred it in a bit.
 
few more questions :

1 - does/has anyone drilled a hole in the top of their container, fitted a rubber seal and popped a food quality thermometer through into the brew to keep a closer eye in the internal temperature ? If so, other than the mandatory cleaning and sanitising, is there anything to know or consider here ?
2 - the St Peters box says 4-6 days for completion of the fermentation cycle. Is that typical and accurate as most seem to be saying to allow 2 weeks ?
3 - heat pads...am i right in thinking that they heat to typically +2c the existing outside/ambient temperature ?
Standard fermentation takes 2 weeks at room temp.
Most of it will be done in the first 5-7 days, but as most of us well tell you there is no rush. Good beer only gets better with time.
if you’re still concerned about temps you can get a Bluetooth probe which sends data to your phone, tablet or computer. Expensive option is a Tilt hydrometer (around £150) but much cheaper to go for an iSpindel - I’ve just bought one fully calibrated for just over £40. Yes it’s a significant investment but you can track the temp and gravity without lifting the lid or wasting beer, plus of course it’s great for us technophiles.
Enjoy your journey, there are some very knowledgeable people on here who can help you.
 
Standard fermentation takes 2 weeks at room temp.
Most of it will be done in the first 5-7 days, but as most of us well tell you there is no rush. Good beer only gets better with time.
if you’re still concerned about temps you can get a Bluetooth probe which sends data to your phone, tablet or computer. Expensive option is a Tilt hydrometer (around £150) but much cheaper to go for an iSpindel - I’ve just bought one fully calibrated for just over £40. Yes it’s a significant investment but you can track the temp and gravity without lifting the lid or wasting beer, plus of course it’s great for us technophiles.
Enjoy your journey, there are some very knowledgeable people on here who can help you.
This shows the gravity also then?
 
This shows the gravity also then?
Yes, but not very accurately. It'll show you a nice curve of fermentation, but the figures can be a few gravity points out (yeast gets stuck unpredictably to it which throws the reading off). But as a guide is "has it finished fermenting" they are good.

Eg this graph.
Screenshot_20220925-151912.jpg
 
I agree with Agentgonzo. Ispindele is great but the readings are only an indication (doesn't stop me checking every day mind) .It also integrates with most brewing software for an all in one solutions .

Brewfather
 

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Handy though. Would it transmit through stainless?
Yes (I have a stainless fermenter).
Need to make sure your Wi-Fi signal is strong enough. I have an SS brew bucket and it will not transmit through that in a fridge. My set up is in the garage though so Wi-Fi is weak out there, even with an extender. However I got a relay unit (nautilis) and it works after installing that. It also has a nice little display for your brewing area.

A0EE6B6E-985C-4CF8-A770-59AC8E19E59A.jpeg
 
thanks for the reply braumeister
what would cause a vigorous fermentation....would that be a particular recipe, too much heat, other reason ???
thanks for the tip re: the airlock getting sucked down into the beer and so i need to remove briefly......i had no idea of that !
also, that you put sanitiser in the airlock either instead of water.....thanks again for the tips !
Hi welcome to the club, you have taken mighty steps into a great hobby.
Your thoughts so far are fine, dive in and have a go, cleanliness is paramount. My 1st was. St Peters Ruby Red and can out grand. Just to say also you can use boiled water in the airlock if you don't want to chance sanitiser in the beer.
 
Hi again all,

So i think this weekend will be my first dabble and getting my Ruby Red on the go finally so some quality time to be spent in the garage !!!
I've purchased an Inkbird 308 so will be taping the sensor to the side of my bucket alongside, my stick on thermometer

1 - Can anyone confirm whether i should be sticking the sensor and thermometer towards the top of the brew, midway or towards the bottom please ?
FYI, i have a round heat-pad so will be heating from underneath

Also, i was initially considering using bottled water but am going old school straight out of the tap so am planning to use Camden tablets

2 - I assume that i need to treat all the water with Camden tablets, so plan to make and treat a batch and then boil the necessary amount required before adding the final cold/Camden treated water...correct ?

As always, thanks in advance of any replies and guidance athumb..

shd
 
I would stick with half way.. heating from the bottom you don't want to take measurements from the very top as the bottom may be heated a lot. Halfway gives you a good balance.

Yes to treating all water. I treat 30 litres and draw off the sparge water and put aside.

Mash water treatment is only applied to the mash water ( when you move on to this )
 
I would stick with half way.. heating from the bottom you don't want to take measurements from the very top as the bottom may be heated a lot. Halfway gives you a good balance.

Yes to treating all water. I treat 30 litres and draw off the sparge water and put aside.

Mash water treatment is only applied to the mash water ( when you move on to this )
Thanks for the reply although I’m a little confused

Sparge and mash water…..?

Mine is a simple 2 x malt extract kit so do these 2 terms apply to me ?

TIA
 
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