On another note I took an early drive to Tesco this morning to get the Ashbeck needed for the brew. Still no 6x2l packs available and now no 5l bottles either. I had to get 16x 2l bottles which was fun at the self checkout.
Recipe: Weyermann's Dunkel
Style: Munich Dunkel
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size (fermenter): 24.00 L
Estimated OG: 1.044 SG
Estimated Color: 33.8 EBC
Estimated IBU: 24.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 75.6 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Water profile: Ca:29 Mg:4 Na:10 SO4:11 Cl:46
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type %/IBU
29.66 L Tesco Ashbeck Water -
1.70 ml Lactic Acid (Mash) Water Agent 80%
1.20 g Calcium Chloride (Mash) Water Agent -
0.30 g Calcium Chloride (Sparge) Water Agent -
0.20 ml Lactic Acid (Sparge) Water Agent 80%
2.80 kg Weyermann Munich II (22.5 EBC) Grain 60.0 %
1.40 kg Weyermann Vienna Malt (5.9 EBC) Grain 30.0 %
0.40 kg Weyermann Caramunich II (124.1 EBC) Grain 8.5 %
0.07 kg Weyermann Carafa II (1150.0 EBC) Grain 1.5 %
18.00 g Magnum [10.70 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 22.1 IBUs
20.00 g Hallertauer Hersbrucker [3.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 2.7 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 7.0 mins) Fining -
1.0 pkg Munich Lager II (Wyeast Labs #2352-PC) Yeast -
Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body
Total Grain Weight: 4.66 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 24.67 L of water at 72.1 C 66.0 C 60 min
Sparge: Dunk sparge with 5L
Hey, quick question while I've got you - I can't remember what kind of system you use (3 vessel? All in one BIAB?). So you use a recirculation pump in the mash? This is something I've recently started tinkering with and I wondered if that's a factor in the very clear wort you always seem to get?a little higher than I wanted so I stirred vigourously for a couple of minutes until it dropped a degree to 67 then left it for the hour.
I might give this a try. I have some wyeast 2278in the fridge. I brewed a doppelbock with it alreadyTodays brew is my first attempt at a Munich Dunkel and so I needed a recipe to follow. I remember quite clearly what a draft Dunkel tastes like when served in Munich so I had a good look around the internet and was not terribly impressed with what I found on the US forums. Their recipes tended to be either:
My impression of a Dunkel is that it's like an English mild brewed to lager strength and with a lager yeast. There is a significant caramel backbone to it that the US recipes don't seem to capture. The US brewers seem to be scared of caramel malts; have they ever seen an English mild recipe where 5-15% crystal malt is the norm?
- Munich plus vienna or pilsner with a bit of carafa for colour. Without the carafa that would be a good Marzen malt bill.
- All munich with 2-3% caramunich and again carafa for colour. That's pretty much an English bitter malt bill with German malts and will lack the body and feel of the Dunkels that I recall drinking in the beer halls.
Finally I found a recipe that looks like it fits the bill and it's on the Weyermann website hidden away under their FAQ. If anyone ought to know how to brew an authentic Dunkel then it's Weyermann. Here's the recipe.
Code:Recipe: Weyermann's Dunkel Style: Munich Dunkel Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 24.00 L Estimated OG: 1.044 SG Estimated Color: 33.8 EBC Estimated IBU: 24.7 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 75.6 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Water profile: Ca:29 Mg:4 Na:10 SO4:11 Cl:46 Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type %/IBU 29.66 L Tesco Ashbeck Water - 1.70 ml Lactic Acid (Mash) Water Agent 80% 1.20 g Calcium Chloride (Mash) Water Agent - 0.30 g Calcium Chloride (Sparge) Water Agent - 0.20 ml Lactic Acid (Sparge) Water Agent 80% 2.80 kg Weyermann Munich II (22.5 EBC) Grain 60.0 % 1.40 kg Weyermann Vienna Malt (5.9 EBC) Grain 30.0 % 0.40 kg Weyermann Caramunich II (124.1 EBC) Grain 8.5 % 0.07 kg Weyermann Carafa II (1150.0 EBC) Grain 1.5 % 18.00 g Magnum [10.70 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 22.1 IBUs 20.00 g Hallertauer Hersbrucker [3.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 2.7 IBUs 1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 7.0 mins) Fining - 1.0 pkg Munich Lager II (Wyeast Labs #2352-PC) Yeast - Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body Total Grain Weight: 4.66 kg ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Mash In Add 24.67 L of water at 72.1 C 66.0 C 60 min Sparge: Dunk sparge with 5L
And so on to brew day, I was up early to grind my grains while the water heated up.
I mashed in at the correct strike temperature but the initial mash temperature settled at 68C, a little higher than I wanted so I stirred vigourously for a couple of minutes until it dropped a degree to 67 then left it for the hour.
I wasn't sure what extraction I'd get from this grain bill because the bulk of it is Munich II and Vienna, neither of which I'd used before and unfamiliar grains often mean a change in mash efficiency. I was pleased to the see the numbers were exactly what I get with a 100% pilsner malt bill with the pre-boil gravity coming out as planned at 1.040.
Nothing exciting to report about the rest of the session and all pre and post boil gravity and volume numbers were hit.
The ground water is still cold here so I got it down to 20.5C with the immersion chiller and 65 litres of tap water which was then used for cleaning before being dumped into our garden water butt. Only the 4 litres used for the PBW wash goes down the drain. Just over 24 litres of wort was collected into the fermenter.
OG was 1.044 as planned which I estimate will finish at 1.006 for an ABV of 5.0%. It's in the brew-fridge at the moment coming down to the planned pitching temperature of 13.5C for the Wyeast 2352-PC starter.
BIAB for me without any kind of pump. My kettle is a converted thermopot with nothing more than a 2.4kW kettle element and an outlet valve in it. I sparge the bag by lifting out into a separate stockpot for 10 minutes of poking and prodding in 5 litres of water. I squeeze the bag very hard and my wort is very cloudy right up until I drop the whirlfloc in at 7 minutes. That stuff is amazing in the way it pulls all the bits together and dumps them on the bottom.Hey, quick question while I've got you - I can't remember what kind of system you use (3 vessel? All in one BIAB?). So you use a recirculation pump in the mash? This is something I've recently started tinkering with and I wondered if that's a factor in the very clear wort you always seem to get?
It's this one from The Malt Miller. I needed a slightly larger jar because my hydrometers are quite wide and touch the sides of a 'normal' trial jar. If you have a normal triple-scale hydrometer then you might find this jar takes up more wort than you'd care to lose. You can always tip the wort back in of course but that comes with a risk, especially later on.That look a cracking brew, so clear already. Where did you get the glass sample tube btw, I'm fed up with my semi transparent plastic thing.
As mentioned above it's the whirlfloc that does the magic. There's a good 10mm of trub on the bottom of the sample jar that you can't see in that photograph that settled there within minutes. I tip all the wort, kettle trub and all into the fermenter and what the yeast doesn't want ends up in a nice fat pancake on the bottom that's easy to transfer the beer off.I too am impressed by foxbat's gleaming, clear worts!
I might give this a try. I have some wyeast 2278in the fridge. I brewed a doppelbock with it already
Interesting to see you, my clear beer spirit animal, saying you just fire the whole lot onto the FV...BIAB for me without any kind of pump. My kettle is a converted thermopot with nothing more than a 2.4kW kettle element and an outlet valve in it. I sparge the bag by lifting out into a separate stockpot for 10 minutes of poking and prodding in 5 litres of water. I squeeze the bag very hard and my wort is very cloudy right up until I drop the whirlfloc in at 7 minutes. That stuff is amazing in the way it pulls all the bits together and dumps them on the bottom.
It's this one from The Malt Miller. I needed a slightly larger jar because my hydrometers are quite wide and touch the sides of a 'normal' trial jar. If you have a normal triple-scale hydrometer then you might find this jar takes up more wort than you'd care to lose. You can always tip the wort back in of course but that comes with a risk, especially later on.
As mentioned above it's the whirlfloc that does the magic. There's a good 10mm of trub on the bottom of the sample jar that you can't see in that photograph that settled there within minutes. I tip all the wort, kettle trub and all into the fermenter and what the yeast doesn't want ends up in a nice fat pancake on the bottom that's easy to transfer the beer off.
I used 2278 in a Czech Pils last year. Supposedly one of the Urquell strains. Very nice, clean and crisp, I'd use it again. If you do brew this recipe and it's no good then I'm blaming Weyermann!
That's a good read, thank you for the link. I'll refer to that when I cook up my next pilsner recipe.Nice looking sample! If you want want a look at typical grists for various german beers, this pdf has them from Narziss as well as examples from actual german breweries.
https://www.homebrewcon.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/SteveHolle_GermanBrewing.pdf
A lot of the best german beers taste the way they do through process, which is why many US and British takes on them miss the mark imo, either through misunderstanding those processes or simply having a different type of brewery and having to adapt that brewery to lager brewing
I hate losing beer for a gravity check mind you
Question - did you, and in general when you do this so you, use any yeast nutrient?Perhaps I made a mistake somewhere culturing the Fuller's yeast?
No I didn't use any nutrient in the building up of the starter, just DME. In future it does seem like a good idea to use some DAP when building up a starter from a bottle.Question - did you, and in general when you do this so you, use any yeast nutrient?
I read or heard something somewhere recently - the gist was that the yeast we buy in a packet (liquid or dry) also contains all the yeast nutrients needed, but if you're reusing yeast (and I guess that includes culturing up from bottle dregs) then you should add some nutrient.
This gave me cause for concern at the time as I thought the porter I made from reused WY1318 had a slight twang to it. Although after some painstaking scientific research this evening I've concluded this is definitely not the case!
Still got that bottle of 1845 in the fridge - must remember at some point to (a) actually drink it and (b) culture it up, is really like to try it in my Porter!
It's actually quite a generous range for a real lager yeast: 11-16C. I set my fridge half way at about 13.5C for the main part of the fermentation then bring it up to 16C to finish off.Last time I looked at this thread it was on the Phoney Peroni! I quite fancy that, but OTOH I have said I would give up on lager-type beers cos I have no cooling facilities (and the days are getting warmer). What is the temp range for the yeast you used? Does it works at room temp, or require a colder environment?
thanks!
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