Fermentation chamber/fridge help

[Gggsss]

Evening all

I've aquired an "under counter" fridge that I want to convert in to a fermentation chamber. Watched a few videos and it seems very straightforward. I just can find any info with regards to the wattage of the heating element. Just any advice of what wattage and safety features required within the element to make sure it's effective and safe.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Flan]

Evening all

I've aquired an "under counter" fridge that I want to convert in to a fermentation chamber. Watched a few videos and it seems very straightforward. I just can find any info with regards to the wattage of the heating element. Just any advice of what wattage and safety features required within the element to make sure it's effective and safe.

Thanks in advance.

this is what i have in my brewfridge it’s 21w i think and it heats the fridge to 25°C no problem.

 

[Alastair70]

i went with one of these but 40W, works a treat.

Tube heater

 

[BlackRegent]

Many people go for tube heaters. Here are my words of advice based on my own experience.

(1) Check the wattage of the heater. I didn't and the first tube heater I bought was only 23w. This could only heat my fridge (admittedly a larger larder fridge) up to around 25/26C which isn't high enough for some yeasts, especially kveik.

(2) Check the cord length unless you fancy a rewiring job as the cord has to be long enough so that it comfortably reaches from the inside of the fridge to the plug socket on the inkbird (assuming that's what you'll use as the controller). Some don't even come with plugs so check that as well!

FWIW this is the 60w heater I bought recently:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tubular-...var=651295120768&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Although note the flex length is a fairly short 1m on this one (they don't mention the length in the advert)

 

[Chippy_Tea]

To add a word of warning to the above - tube heaters must be mounted horizontally unless stated otherwise as they can overheat if used vertically.

 

[Gggsss]

Thanks for feedback all. Basically didn't want to burn the house down

 

[Bill_g]

Here's a few thoughts which I hope might be of assistance:
From what I've seen the Inkbird looks like a good controller that doesn't require any extra wiring work. I don't have one, I tend to use STC-1000 units or similar which can be bought from the Far East very cheaply but these need boxing and wiring up.
The heater power required depends on the min ambient where the fridge will be kept and the max brew temp you want to achieve. As you will see from photo below I use a brew belt which is about 40W but my workshop doesn't get below about 10C and I brew typically at 18C. Quickest way to find out would be to use your heater or even a 60W incandescent bulb as a heater. Sit it in the fridge with the FV full of water & monitor temperature rise and final temp above ambient (if not clear let me know). This will give you the max capability of the heater above the prevailing ambient temperature.
You will need to get wires in/out of the fridge. Fortunately the rubber seal will usually accommodate slim wires but abrasion is a potential safety risk for mains wiring. I 3d printed a plastic wiring protector with channels for the wires (see photo). I guess wood and gaffa tape would achieve the same ends. Other option is to cut a hole in the door or side of fridge. However be very cautious about the sides of the fridge, I found to my cost that I wrecked a fridge by cutting a hole in the side and found out only too late that it used the sides of the fridge as the radiator element. A hole big enough to pass 13A plugs through is ideal if you want to avoid any messing about with re-wiring. The hole can be plugged with foam rubber after the wires are put through.( I am a retired electrical/electronics engineer so wiring not an issue for me. )

 

[Gggsss]

Hi Bill, thanks for the detailed reply. I'm going to get me teeth sunk in to it. Will take your tips and advice in to battle...

 

[Bill_g]

Hi Bill, thanks for the detailed reply. I'm going to get me teeth sunk in to it. Will take your tips and advice in to battle...

ok, that's great. If you think I might be able to assist any further just ask.

 

[Alastair70]

With regards to the wires, I removed the plastic drip outlet at the back of the fridge giving me more than enough space to bring in the inkbird thermocouple and the lead for th ebar heater. Everything is tucked back out of the way.

 

[Clint]

My heater is one of the mentioned tube style from Toolstation.
I managed to get the cable through the drain hole at the back. The Inky probe just has the door closed on it. It's a nice easy project that gives great results...and allows some not to be missed photo opportunities for you to upload to the forum...

 

[ukdaasfan]

Bar heater from Argos. Think it cost mw 19.99. Worked a treat for years plugged in STC-1000 controller in a plastic box.