Interesting you say that, after reading lots of reviews, no one seems to use the top or bottom screens, I never have and after stuck spares use loads of oat husks.
Now you mention it that would make quite a difference to flow!
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Now you mention it that would make quite a difference to flow!
I have just watched a vid by Gash on yt and he had no over flow in the brewzilla, the wort was as clear as anything
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
I've been using glucanase enzyme in place of oat hulls ( can't get rice hulls in NZ ), works really well and doesn't take any volume up so can leave more space for grain. You could get this effect as well by adding a glucanase rest to your mash I suppose and I think that's around 50 celsius for half an hour ( but check that info).
I use 10ml of glucanase per batch.
I really would like some way of getting a much more even flow from the recirc pipe across the mash bed, have looked at the recirc manifold from SS brewtech but it seems quite pricey as a punt and I'd like to see or hear that it worked.
Looks well made and different hole sizes indicate that they have done a bit of design development, was also thinking useful for the sparge as well.
https://www.brewshop.co.nz/ss-mash-manifold.html
I use 10ml of glucanase per batch.
I really would like some way of getting a much more even flow from the recirc pipe across the mash bed, have looked at the recirc manifold from SS brewtech but it seems quite pricey as a punt and I'd like to see or hear that it worked.
Looks well made and different hole sizes indicate that they have done a bit of design development, was also thinking useful for the sparge as well.
https://www.brewshop.co.nz/ss-mash-manifold.html
I use a bit lower than that, 40ºc; I believe the optimum range for beta glucanase is 37-45 but over 40 you're starting to tickle the proteolytic enzymes which might damage your head retention and body unless you've got >25% un-malted grains in there :-)
I'm not sure what's possible with your setup, but I use a simple spiral of 3/8" beer line with 2mm holes drilled in it laid on top of the mash. Another approach I've heard of is to is to lay a bit of fine SS mesh over the top of the grain but I'm less convinced about that one...
I love the beer line idea! Brilliant.
Also I’m scared that if I buy any SS Brewtech stuff then it will open up a new world of expensive gear acquisition ;-)
But then again it might be time to move on from the Kegland/Keg King stuff. Especially as I’m fed up reading about their feuding.
Here you go… it’s held in a spiral by shoving it through holes in a strip cut from an old FV lid
RoomWithABrew
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This is what makes full volume mash more credible, with the higher ratio of liquor to grain making a more fluid mash there is no need for anything other than a tube to delivering the return of wort. Also the advantage of shortening the brew day by eliminating the sparge. Costs are a couple of dollars worth of grain more, and according to the experts a superior wort.
I understand what you're saying. Mashing with full volume results in approx half the concentration of both the mash enzymes and the starch molecules; so I can see why you'd need more malt.
Also it is my understanding that alpha-amylase in particular is less active and less stable in worts with low levels of calcium ions; and this instability is increased in thin mashes. Whether or not this is a problem would depend on the style of beer and whether you want a full body.
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On the contrary. No-Sparge Brewing | MoreBeer
An Ankoù
Landlord.
If you've still got a brane, you're not drinking enough.
No need to go for the full anatomy course, the brane is in the upper half so you don't need a full body. My ex thought otherwise, though. Still, what does she know?
This is a very interesting discussion. I've never done a batch-sized mash, or whatever you call it, mainly for reasons of convenience and for my understanding of the action of the saccharification enzymnes at different concentrations. I would have gone along with TETB. But Fix usually knows what he's talking about. Nothing for it but to give it a try.
I used to do full volume no sparge BIAB and it works. If you get a little down on your SG just use a little more grain than usual in your next brew or alter your efficiency down a little to compensate automatically so you have the right amount of grain. It may take a couple of brews to get it right but thats all.
Too many people chasing efficiency its better to mash with more water than is generally suggested so you have a more fluid mash even with a all in one system.
I just do a jug sparge in mine rather than sparging to death and mash with usually 19ltrs to about 4kg of grain for a 20ltr FV batch or just do a full volume one depends on the mood.
But spending 1 and half hours sparging to chase that slight improvement in Eff is in my world a waste of time
Too many people chasing efficiency its better to mash with more water than is generally suggested so you have a more fluid mash even with a all in one system.
I just do a jug sparge in mine rather than sparging to death and mash with usually 19ltrs to about 4kg of grain for a 20ltr FV batch or just do a full volume one depends on the mood.
But spending 1 and half hours sparging to chase that slight improvement in Eff is in my world a waste of time
An Ankoù
Landlord.
Definitely got to be tried. Three questions:
1-If I would normally expect to boil down to an OG of 1050 in 20 litres by mashing and sparging 4Kg pale or pilsner malt, how much more malt would I need to get the same using full volume?
2-If I want to get 23 litres pre-boil volume, how much water do I need to add to a mash 4Kg pale or pilsner malt?
3-Is the full-volume mash I'm considering too thin for effective or less-than-ideal conversion?
Thanks in advance guys. I don't use brewing software, just a calculator and a wet thumb in the air to see which way the wind's blowing.
I can just run this off from the mash tun, can't I? I don't need to contain the malts in a bag, or do I?
1-If I would normally expect to boil down to an OG of 1050 in 20 litres by mashing and sparging 4Kg pale or pilsner malt, how much more malt would I need to get the same using full volume?
2-If I want to get 23 litres pre-boil volume, how much water do I need to add to a mash 4Kg pale or pilsner malt?
3-Is the full-volume mash I'm considering too thin for effective or less-than-ideal conversion?
Thanks in advance guys. I don't use brewing software, just a calculator and a wet thumb in the air to see which way the wind's blowing.
I can just run this off from the mash tun, can't I? I don't need to contain the malts in a bag, or do I?
Hi AA
1. every system/way is different but I would up your base malt by approx 500g as a base line and see where it goes if it is too low a SG just add a little sugar if it matters in a specific recipe.
2. Total volume would be approx 28/29ltrs. With boil off and grain absorption that should near to your 23ltr pre boil.
3.No your conversion will be ok but the eff is down because you are not rinsing the last bit of sugar through hence the extra grain to compensate but you should get the approx same conversion
1. every system/way is different but I would up your base malt by approx 500g as a base line and see where it goes if it is too low a SG just add a little sugar if it matters in a specific recipe.
2. Total volume would be approx 28/29ltrs. With boil off and grain absorption that should near to your 23ltr pre boil.
3.No your conversion will be ok but the eff is down because you are not rinsing the last bit of sugar through hence the extra grain to compensate but you should get the approx same conversion
I've read that the efficiency is usually down by 3-5%; so maybe increase your base malt by about 4% ?
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
This graph helps with some figures for a no sparge outcome.
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