Electricity to 4500 watt element

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Mafuta

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:hmm:
While browsing at shiny things for a new SS HLT, I got carried away and bought a Camco 4.5kW element. At 19amp it's below the 20amp limit for my ring main, but I didn't consider how I was going to plug the bloody thing in.

Any ideas? SWMBO will not be pleased with a commando socket in the kitchen. I'm guessing that splicing 2x 13amp supplies will end in pretty lights and a visit from the fire service (which may please SWMBO).

How about putting a 45amp cooker switch face plate on a existing socket/box thing, then bodging a 20amp Neutrik panel outlet by drilling a blank plate, and connect via the switch with appropriate wire? Hey presto 20amp switched outlet.

How does that sound or do I need to hide the package when it arrives, and buy a couple of not so nice Tesco kettles? :?:

Fangs for any help
:?:
 
i'm not an electrician but i am in the building trade , i think the only way you could use that safely is plug into the cooker socket that has thick cable (6mm) and don't use the oven at the time , adding a cooker socket face onto a normal socket is not the way as it will be pulling too much power down the 2.5mm cable (normal ring main) , hopefully a real sparky will be along to help.
 
If your consumer unit is near by then why not take a new supply from it to a new 20A+ rated socket next to the consumer unit, then buy and run a 6mm extention to where you need it!
Only issue with this is that you would have 20A at 240v going through an open cable, i would sugest a plug in 30ma RCD to reduce any risks, altough you should have at least a minimum 50ma built in RCD in your consumer unit.

Or depending on how good at electrics you are why not run a 20A+ supply to where you need it with a 20A+ rated socket, then you can brew where ever you like!

If your not confident then "definately" pay a sparky to do it for you.
It won't cost too much :rofl:

Or for a tenner buy 2 kettles and use the elements from them as you say, much cheaper. ;)
 
I think the only safe way to do this is to get another cooker socket wired into your consumer unit.
You can then get it permanently wired into the switchable socket outlet.
Sounds like a lot of work & expense :shock:
 
Whatever you do, use a qualified electrician (or get one to certify the work). Not only do you not want to electrocute anyone or burn down your house, but such work is legally required to be Part P certified.
 
I got a Sparky in when I re designed my brewery/garage. Fully qualified insured etc etc. he charged me £50 for a full mornings work I got a new ring main from the main box 4 double sockets and more importantly....peace of mind.
Now can take off as many sockets as I want to...anyone want to buy a spare 4 x extention cable !! :oops:
 
I'm not an electrician but the cable size is also related to the length of cable. The longer the run the lower the cable is rated or the thicker it has to be. I did proper cable calculations from advice on the Internet and ended up having to install 10mm2 cable for my new double electric oven because of the distance between the consumer unit and kitchen.

I would definitely consult a sparky.
 
Other factors also involve cable size such as where it runs. Is it in a conduit, clipped to a wall etc.
 
Mafuta said:
Cheers for the advice Chaps

A good double socket will take 20amp, with the usual safety factors built in

Many thanks :thumb:

No, it will not. A good (MK) socket is made to supply 13A in total. The 20A heat test should not be confused as proof that the socket is designed to carry more than 13A for a prolonged period.

Your 4.5Kw element will boil wort for an hour, plus heating time. Either you need a 32A Cee form, or it needs hard wiring like an immersion heater.
 
Out of interest, is there any reason why you couldn't hard wire 32A Commando sockets in?
Every now and then, you can pick this sort of gear up cheap. It means you can unplug your boiler rather than hard wiring it.

Just my tuppence worth. I work with these quite a lot in data centres. I have a couple of the 16A ones at home for my camper.
 
stu said:
Out of interest, is there any reason why you couldn't hard wire 32A Commando sockets in?
Every now and then, you can pick this sort of gear up cheap. It means you can unplug your boiler rather than hard wiring it.

Just my tuppence worth. I work with these quite a lot in data centres. I have a couple of the 16A ones at home for my camper.

Apart from ensuring adequate circuit protection, and conforming with BS7671 (ie, the wiring regulations) I don't see why not.

Must add at this point, the regs have been written from experience of making safe circuits with adequate protection to save your life, not as a hindrance, and as an annoying irritation that xsn be avoided. 32a is a hell of a lot of electricity!
 
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