How to use the Tesco Value kettle heating element - mark II

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Hi,

How is the element actually held into the boiler? I can't see any fixings.

Ahh... I see now! Its held by the three screws.
 
Worked an absolute treat, got both elements running, hit strike temp for mash in about 25mins, boil in about 45mins with 30l of water in it. Test successful.

Thanks again BigYin
 
Has anyone used these elements with a stainless stockpot from berglands? I've installed 2 tonight and because of how thin the metal wall is you can't get a good seal with the stock orange rubber. Gonna have to get some o rings of some sort? Just wondered if anyone has done this and what did they use?
 
i have an argos element in my bergland pot. I got a pack of poly washers from city plumbing and they work great. they are the 1 1/4" ones and the inner is 40mm. bulks out the pot wall to get a good seal on the element. cost a quid for 5
 
Have a similar setup. Same Tesco kettles and maplin hot plugs. On my second set of them now. Really need to get some sort of a heat sink but have no idea how.
 
Brewberoza said:
Have a similar setup. Same Tesco kettles and maplin hot plugs. On my second set of them now. Really need to get some sort of a heat sink but have no idea how.
Heat sink for what?
 
heat sink to stop the elements casings (i.e. the outside) over heating. Be great to keep excess heat away from the electrics.
 
Brewberoza said:
heat sink to stop the elements casings (i.e. the outside) over heating. Be great to keep excess heat away from the electrics.

thanks
 
How did you fit your temp probe? Is that a thermowell if so where is it from please?
 
My local tescos have stopped selling these kettles - Sainsburys however sell some - you need orx bits or a dremel to cut a slot for a screwdriver to pull the base off though.

Same instructions as above to get it to work though.
 
nice pictorial :thumb:

in case it's helpful..

1. the argos value kettles are *shock/surprise* the same elements as well and only a fiver so if you're that way they can help too.

2. the maplin hot condition plugs are *shock/surprise* cheap and crappy but they do the job. just don't knock them while they're hot or they will willingly disfigure. mine still work horribly disfigured but it's on my list of improvements (a long way down though!). genuine old kettle leads are by far the best if you can find 'em free / lying around somewhere i reckon.
 
For those who can't solder / don't want to and are concerned about the mechanical connection on the crimps, take a look at the big (4mm) cable connectors you can buy in strips from the DIY places*. They are rated at 13 Amps, have a solid conductor right through them and offer a secure screwed connection to the wire and the kettle element.

You still have to insulate as you've got the risk of liquid ingress and the securing screws are, with difficulty, touchable. I used them for half a dozen brews until I got hold of a cheap soldering iron and fitted the Maplin 10 Amp hot sockets for convenience, I also used solid core cable from the plug to the connector as it's just 'better' in my view for this connection type. I like to remove the elements every couple of brews and clean them to make sure there aren't any hot spots due to the the sticky wort building up, as shown in BY's photos, hot plugs make this a simpler process.

*if you don't know what I'm typing about here, best stick to some other method as getting it wrong has potentially unpleasant consequences.
 
TRXnMe said:
For those who can't solder / don't want to and are concerned about the mechanical connection on the crimps, take a look at the big (4mm) cable connectors you can buy in strips from the DIY places*. They are rated at 13 Amps, have a solid conductor right through them and offer a secure screwed connection to the wire and the kettle element.

You still have to insulate as you've got the risk of liquid ingress and the securing screws are, with difficulty, touchable. I used them for half a dozen brews until I got hold of a cheap soldering iron and fitted the Maplin 10 Amp hot sockets for convenience, I also used solid core cable from the plug to the connector as it's just 'better' in my view for this connection type. I like to remove the elements every couple of brews and clean them to make sure there aren't any hot spots due to the the sticky wort building up, as shown in BY's photos, hot plugs make this a simpler process.

*if you don't know what I'm typing about here, best stick to some other method as getting it wrong has potentially unpleasant consequences.
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