Dry Hopping; Leaf or Pellets?

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ian_68

Active Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
49
Reaction score
7
Location
NULL
So i did a Totally Tropical Pale from James Morton's Brew book. To be honest, for whatever reason, it's not hoppy or bitter enough for my taste buds. That said, it's beer, light and crisp. I dry hopped with 50g citra leaf for 3 days, which in hindsight, i don't think was long enough. Or maybe it was the leaf hops.
So, question. Leaf or pellets to dry hop?
 
Pellet every time for me. Leaf tends to float, absorb too much beer and I'm not convinced it gives up its oils as readily as pellet
 
Pellet every time for me. Leaf tends to float, absorb too much beer and I'm not convinced it gives up its oils as readily as pellet
Do you always put pellets in a bag? What about quantity. Does 50g leaf = 50g pellets or do you have to scale up or down?
Cheers
 
My own preference is leaf. My experience of pellets is that they make the beer very difficult to clear. I find two problems with dry leaf. First, they tend to float, not saturate, and if this happens you'll not get the full aroma out of them. Secondly, they are much more bulky than pellets, so you can lose more volume when you decant.
I get round the first problem by scalding the hops first, so they are already wet when I add them. The second problem is something I've got used to - for me, much less of an issue than having a fine haze of hop powder in my beer that I can't easily get rid of.
You don't say what the volume of your brew was. For me, if I wanted a really hoppy beer, then for a 20l brew I'd want at least 100g of dry hops, probably more, and I would leave them in for more than 3 days - maybe 5 or 7, with regular agitation to encourage mixing and to break up any floating "hop cap".
Oh, and if it isn't bitter enough, then it's not down to the dry hops. Bitterness is determined largely during the boil, but also influenced by any late additions whilst the wort is still hot.
 
Do you always put pellets in a bag? What about quantity. Does 50g leaf = 50g pellets or do you have to scale up or down?
Cheers
No, I just sling em in. And I reckon that you'd need quite a bit more leaf than pellet for the same effect.

Haze. Yeah, ok, can be an issue, but nothing that a good chilling and a bit of time won't sort out in most cases. A bit of haze doesn't bother me if not
 
No, I just sling em in. And I reckon that you'd need quite a bit more leaf than pellet for the same effect.

Haze. Yeah, ok, can be an issue, but nothing that a good chilling and a bit of time won't sort out in most cases. A bit of haze doesn't bother me if not
You're right, tried a sample. Very hazy so i put it in the shed to chill, coldest place i have for it just now. Hope it works. Tastes awesome though.
Cheers
 
Since we're on the subject, my technique (newbie!) is to dry hop with pellets:
1. Remove airlock & bung
2. Add pellets via hole
3. Replace airlock
4. Agitate FV to aid mixing

Anything wrong in doing this? The aim is to avoid removing the FV lid and so reduce risk of infection.

Cheers,

Matt
 
Since we're on the subject, my technique (newbie!) is to dry hop with pellets:
1. Remove airlock & bung
2. Add pellets via hole
3. Replace airlock
4. Agitate FV to aid mixing

Anything wrong in doing this? The aim is to avoid removing the FV lid and so reduce risk of infection.

Cheers,

Matt
Depends on the hole: if it's small and you have to push them through individually, not optimal. Otherwise it's well-thoughtout .
 
Since we're on the subject, my technique (newbie!) is to dry hop with pellets:
1. Remove airlock & bung
2. Add pellets via hole
3. Replace airlock
4. Agitate FV to aid mixing

Anything wrong in doing this? The aim is to avoid removing the FV lid and so reduce risk of infection.

Cheers,

Matt
Do you rack off the yeast into a secondary FV or bottling bucket before dry hopping? I read here and there that yeast can affect the infusion of dry hops, in an efficiency way.
 
Do you rack off the yeast into a secondary FV or bottling bucket before dry hopping? I read here and there that yeast can affect the infusion of dry hops, in an efficiency way.
No - I'm dry hopping in the primary after 2 weeks. Then after a further week in the primary it's straight into the bottling bucket with a little sugar & water and into the bottles.

Is this not ok?

Not wishing to hijack this thread, but I posted earlier today asking on this subject:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/did-i-dry-hop-wrong.79956/
 
I read here and there that yeast can affect the infusion of dry hops, in an efficiency way.
Might have been in this amazing post on here.

Matt, there's no need to shake the fermenter when you put the dry hops in, they dissipate absolutely fine. I've seen people with those hugh stainless fermenters that have an airlock bung pull it out and do what you're doing. I just open the lid a bit, sling them in and reseal it. You get more blasé as you go along. I think we all had the brewing boogeyman fears about things at the start.

And in your post above I do exactly the same thing. It's great you're batch priming.
 
No - I'm dry hopping in the primary after 2 weeks. Then after a further week in the primary it's straight into the bottling bucket with a little sugar & water and into the bottles.

Is this not ok?

Not wishing to hijack this thread, but I posted earlier today asking on this subject:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/did-i-dry-hop-wrong.79956/
Quote from the link Drunkula posted
'Dry hopping is worth doing off of the yeast if you can prevent oxygen ingress as yeast can grab three times the hop oil of beer so for every 2-3L of yeast you toss at the end you've just tossed 30-45% of your dry hop in a 20L batch.'
 

Latest posts

Back
Top