Clear wort, hop filter and leaving the trub in the boiler...

[RobWalker]

can anybody give me any advice on this? at current I am using a Brupaks boiler with a Viking hop filter;

the flow rate from the hop filter is bad. i remember john nowacki (worcs hop shop) telling me I need to add a length of tube to the ball valve tap. any ideas?

second, how can i get my wort clearer? my cooling is done in the bathtub. it takes about an hour and cold breaks fine, I usually ferment in the same bucket but i don't mind syphoning into a new one if that helps?

and third, the trub is blocking my hop filter up a treat. is there any way i can reduce the amount of trub I take through?

my current method is this;

mash in boiler
strain through tap into a bucket with hop filter removed
sparge grain if neccessary (I often just BIAB and get a good enough efficiency and volume via that.)
remove grain from boiler
pour grain back into boiler and boil
strain through hop filter into FV
cool in bathtub
pitch yeast

 

[pittsy]

i guess that's 1 of the down sides to biab , with a mash tun as well as a filter fitted the grain acts as a filter and that'a why you pour back the first few jug fulls until it's nice and clear so already less crap to clog up filter later on after boil , maybe this is the reason ?

 

[bunkerbrewer]

i guess that's 1 of the down sides to biab , with a mash tun as well as a filter fitted the grain acts as a filter and that'a why you pour back the first few jug fulls until it's nice and clear so already less crap to clog up filter later on after boil , maybe this is the reason ?

You're right to a point, you just need the right filter :)

I knocked this up for my BIAB brews and it works pretty well:

It's your standard drilled copper pipe, but with a circular strainer attached. This protects the bag from the kettle element, and acts as a filter - hops and kettle trub sit on top, but it allows the wort to flow out freely.