Brewzilla Robobrew question

[foxy]

The helix, works like a charm with no chill, because of low viscosity I joined 2 together for a greater mass for the low viscosity wort to go through.

Always try to keep the hot break and hop residue out of the fermenter, even though this looks clear if I poured a glass of wort from the fermenter and put it in the fridge you would be able to see the cold break. The cold break is beneficial to the yeast during fermentation.

 

[Gerryjo]

I’ve been using my Brewzilla for about 8 months now and I’m still having problems with controlling the mash temperature I set the temperature to about 2°c above my ideal temp and things start off really well but after about 30 minutes or so the temperature jumps all over the place.
Today was my first attempt at a 90 minute mash I set the temp to 68°c and the mash stayed around 66°c for about 45 mins or so but then the temp kept dropping and I had to increase the setting eventually ending up at 74°c to keep the mash temperature around 66°c. Am I alone here or does anyone else have the same problems ? I should add that I run the pump after about 10 minutes . And I have also upgraded to the polycarbonate sight tube.

I run the pump continuously once mashed in but always check with a calibrated thermometer.

 

[Mash Monster]

I run the pump continuously once mashed in but always check with a calibrated thermometer.

Yep that’s what I do as well
Do you get a variance in temperature as well or are the temps pretty stable ?

 

[Gerryjo]

Yep that’s what I do as well
Do you get a variance in temperature as well or are the temps pretty stable ?

Temps remain stable unless stirring the mash occasionally.

 

[foxy]

I’ve been using my Brewzilla for about 8 months now and I’m still having problems with controlling the mash temperature I set the temperature to about 2°c above my ideal temp and things start off really well but after about 30 minutes or so the temperature jumps all over the place.
Today was my first attempt at a 90 minute mash I set the temp to 68°c and the mash stayed around 66°c for about 45 mins or so but then the temp kept dropping and I had to increase the setting eventually ending up at 74°c to keep the mash temperature around 66°c. Am I alone here or does anyone else have the same problems ? I should add that I run the pump after about 10 minutes . And I have also upgraded to the polycarbonate sight tube.

Try leaving the top screen off, stir regularly for the first 20 mins to 1/2 hour, you will notice that the mash becomes easier to stir as the starches convert. Before that when the mash is stiff it is very insular that's why there are pockets of either cooler or hotter areas in the mash. Also just try making your mash more fluid, I do full volume so I am doughing in to between 32 and 34 litres of water.
You don't have to go to that extreme, especially if you worry about efficiency.
Another thing to worry about with the BrewZilla/Robobrew is if you are going to use the Hochkurz mash method is how long it takes the temperature to rise. Not only here, but on other forums I have seen complaints about how sluggish it is going from a low mash temperature to a higher mash temperature. I think I mentioned to you before there is a 3 year warranty on these units, try the stirring and if the display still goes erratic take it back, or contact the dealer.

 

[Mash Monster]

Try leaving the top screen off, stir regularly for the first 20 mins to 1/2 hour, you will notice that the mash becomes easier to stir as the starches convert. Before that when the mash is stiff it is very insular that's why there are pockets of either cooler or hotter areas in the mash. Also just try making your mash more fluid, I do full volume so I am doughing in to between 32 and 34 litres of water.
You don't have to go to that extreme, especially if you worry about efficiency.
Another thing to worry about with the BrewZilla/Robobrew is if you are going to use the Hochkurz mash method is how long it takes the temperature to rise. Not only here, but on other forums I have seen complaints about how sluggish it is going from a low mash temperature to a higher mash temperature. I think I mentioned to you before there is a 3 year warranty on these units, try the stirring and if the display still goes erratic take it back, or contact the dealer.

Many thanks for the advice Is it advisable to reduce the flow of the recirculating pump to prevent it going down the overflow pipe at all cost. Or can I let it do it’s own thing and go with the flow (no pun intended) and don’t worry about it going down the overflow pipe ?

 

[foxy]

Many thanks for the advice Is it advisable to reduce the flow of the recirculating pump to prevent it going down the overflow pipe at all cost. Or can I let it do it’s own thing and go with the flow (no pun intended) and don’t worry about it going down the overflow pipe ?

To be honest when I was using the overflow pipe, I never really used it. To me it was like an appendix, it was there but of no use. The whole idea is to let the wort flow through the grain bed, if it started going down the overflow pipe then choke the flow on the tap. What is unavoidable is, no matter what the crush of the grain, there is always going to be small bits circulating throughout, having wort going down the overflow will take the bits back down to the lower level. Wort not going down the overflow will not be taking the bits with them, they will be dumped on the top of the grain bed where they belong.

 

[dave_77]

The helix, works like a charm with no chill, because of low viscosity I joined 2 together for a greater mass for the low viscosity wort to go through.

View attachment 41589
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View attachment 41590
Always try to keep the hot break and hop residue out of the fermenter, even though this looks clear if I poured a glass of wort from the fermenter and put it in the fridge you would be able to see the cold break. The cold break is beneficial to the yeast during fermentation.

That Helix filter is interesting I have not seen that before . I have been thinking recently that I shouldn't be using the pump to transfer into the Fermenter as I'm getting alot of trub and I'm assuming alot of the break material is just getting re broken up and sucked into the fermenter. Been thinking the tap would be a cleaner way and with the filter even more so. I noticed kegland sell one which I'm assuming would fit into the tap on a Brewzilla? With this filter it looks as though it would be lower than the pipe so you will have less losses from the dead space below the tap?

 

[chillipickle]

Same here foxy i have never used the center overflow tube, or the extra fine mesh bottom plate.Touch wood i have yet to have a pump block, and any grain below the false bottom.
For my first couple of brews i did have the recirc pipe filtering through a stainless kitchen sieve as it was coming up to the boil.A very small amount of "chit" was caught don't even bother using sieve now.

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

I use the fine base plate but I put it below the other one and that works well for me. I also never use the overflow. I leave the black rubber cap on and adjust the flow so as to have I run through the grain without overflowing, then keep an eye on it.

 

[Hop_it]

Before purchasing the robobrew I’d read all about stuck spares and rice hills, and was prepared to have to go down this route. Having been brewing on it for much of last year I can honestly say it’s not been an issue and at the moment not looking at using rice hulls even with a fine crush. I did have a stuck pump briefly when running it with the chiller and loose hops, but not since. With my last two brews I put the fine mesh on the base filter rather than in the mash pipe, with the idea of limiting what reached the pump and it’s been fine. I do like it as a piece of cooking equipment too - used at Christmas to sous vide the turkey .

it would be nice to have more headspace for high OG mashes and I’ve yet to tackle a stepped mash, but it’s been fun to work with.

Anna

I also want to try a stepped mash, but at the moment I don't have the confidence in the overall temperature control. There seems to be little point in attempting a stepped mash unless you can be sure that the temperature throughout the mash can be ramped up reasonably quickly. I don't think that reaching a new set point on the temperature display means anything unless the whole of the grain bed reaches that temperature as well. It may be possible to achieve this with the combination of ramping up the set temperature, the addition of some very hot water, and lots of stirring. But this would probably necessitate the removal of the central recirculation tube to make stirring easier. . . . . . I may give it a try one day when I have lots of time to spare

 

[venkman100]

Hi. Had my brewzilla for 16 months now. I am about 15 brews in. Not had a stuck sparge or a blocked pump. Used a variety of grains and suppliers. I am not being smug, I have probably been very lucky. I just want to reassure new users of the Robobrew that yes, maybe these things you hear about may happen. But please don't assume that they will. Give it a go. I love mine. Doing a wheat beer soon, that maybe my downfall or maybe not .
Happy brewing....

 

[Hop_it]

Hi. Had my brewzilla for 16 months now. I am about 15 brews in. Not had a stuck sparge or a blocked pump. Used a variety of grains and suppliers. I am not being smug, I have probably been very lucky. I just want to reassure new users of the Robobrew that yes, maybe these things you hear about may happen. But please don't assume that they will. Give it a go. I love mine. Doing a wheat beer soon, that maybe my downfall or maybe not .
Happy brewing....

I agree entirely. We can all learn something from the experiences of others . . . . both the good ones and the unfortunate ones. I have no regrets buying the Robobrew, but I will continue experimenting until I am satisfied that I have developed a process that gives me reliable and consistent results. . . . . It certainly beats messing around with insulated plastic mashing buckets and an old Burco boiler.

Just for your information, I brewed a Weizen a few months ago. The grain bill for 19l was:

• Malted wheat - 2.7kg (bought ready crushed)
• Pilsner malt - 1.8kg (bought ready crushed)

It was my first attempt at a wheat beer in the Brewzilla, so as a precaution I also used 200g (dry weight) of washed rice hulls in the mash. I had both mesh screens in place, and used 18l of strike water. The mash circulation was adequate, and the sparge did not stick. The end result was a very nice beer.
The only things I would change when I brew it again are:

• Use another litre or so of strike water to make the mash a bit more fluid
• Use different hops (I used Willamette because I had already had some. Something German would have given a more authentic taste)

Good luck with yours

 

[venkman100]

I agree entirely. We can all learn something from the experiences of others . . . . both the good ones and the unfortunate ones. I have no regrets buying the Robobrew, but I will continue experimenting until I am satisfied that I have developed a process that gives me reliable and consistent results. . . . . It certainly beats messing around with insulated plastic mashing buckets and an old Burco boiler.

Just for your information, I brewed a Weizen a few months ago. The grain bill for 19l was:

• Malted wheat - 2.7kg (bought ready crushed)
• Pilsner malt - 1.8kg (bought ready crushed)

It was my first attempt at a wheat beer in the Brewzilla, so as a precaution I also used 200g (dry weight) of washed rice hulls in the mash. I had both mesh screens in place, and used 18l of strike water. The mash circulation was adequate, and the sparge did not stick. The end result was a very nice beer.
The only things I would change when I brew it again are:

• Use another litre or so of strike water to make the mash a bit more fluid
• Use different hops (I used Willamette because I had already had some. Something German would have given a more authentic taste)

Good luck with yours

Glad you are enjoying your Robobrew. And thanks very much for the tips on my wheat beer. I will do as you suggest..

 

[venkman100]

I do use the overflow pipe but due to careful monitoring and flow control, I have not had any wort go down it. But nobody has mentioned the reason it is there. If the mash turned too thick and the wort did not flow fast enough through the mash you could risk pumping all the wort from the bottom and burning the base or even damaging the elements. So yes, no wort should normally go down, but sooner that than the possible alternatives...

 

[clyne]

I generally try to let the wort come up to near the top of the overflow pipe, but not down it. Why? because if the wort is flowing down the overflow then it's not flowing through the grain bed, therefore likely to get less of the goodness out of it. I try to get the optimum flow rate that keeps the wort circulating and filtering through the grain bed but not overflowing. I guess you could whip it out, but it adds an extra layer of fun and monitoring for me on brew day :)

 

[foxy]

Another tip is use a 20 litre pail with water in, this will put pressure on the grain in the grain basket when draining. Gets out some high gravity wort.

 

[Moe]

Some top tips here.
I have done two brews on the Brewzilla now- what a great bit of kit!

The first brew I set up as standard. No issues with a stuck mash or blocked pump. I used 25l of mash water (Brewfather recommended this) with 6.4kg of grain so it was almost to the brim. Water was continuously pouring down the overflow pipe and out of the two holes at the top of the mash bucket. Didn’t seem to cause any problems though as I had the top screen on. The sparge was fine, if a little slow.

Second brew was only 4.2kg so went a lot easier. I put the fine mesh screen on the top of the false bottom. As I was only using 35g of pellet hops I threw these in loose in the boil. This worked fine and the false bottom caught most of the hops.

Fairly easy to clean up as well: Quick hose down in the garden, recirculated some percarbonate solution and then the same with water to rinse.

 

[UKSkydiver]

I have been thinking recently that I shouldn't be using the pump to transfer into the Fermenter as I'm getting alot of trub and I'm assuming alot of the break material is just getting re broken up and sucked into the fermenter.

I can only tell you my experience from two brews. I recirc dring the mash and use a hop sock during the boil.

The first I just pumped everything into the FV and it's one of the clearest brews I've had so far.

The second brew I pumped everything into the FV, but through a bit of mesh (net curtain) which captured a lot of the bigger stuff. Within hours it was again really clear.

I'm not saying this is the best way to do it, not saying you should do do it, but in my experience so far, not something that affects the clarity too much.

 

[chillipickle]

Most of my brews have been around the 5.8 to 6kg grain bill.Normally 21ltr strike water is enough, when have used rolled oats and wheat i upped the strike to 22ltrs.A couple of hand fulls of rice hulls keeps the flow going really well.

All my hop pellets just get thrown in lose.Even using 150g+ hardly any gets past the false bottom after using the whirlpool arm.
Agree the brewzilla is pretty easy to clean after use.