Brewzilla cooling and whirlpool

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Not sure what the benefit of whirlpool is with leaf hops. Thought it was just to help mostly pellet hop matter and any other small particles of grain that makes it in the kettle to gather into a nice cone in the centre of the false bottom to prevent the false bottom from getting completely blocked. I would imagine with leaf hops you'd want a nice even layer of the leaf matter to rest on the false bottom to act as that filter.
 
I used the tap, not the pump to run off.
I was doing the same (up on two milk crates) but I managed to do in a couple of disks in my back so I leave it on the ground now.
For transferring I put the whirlpool arm on the outside of the BZ and pump it into my bucket (Better Brew 30l) and it won't touch the wort up to 25l in the fermenter. I think it works well because the pump inlet pipe is a little bit higher than the bottom of the unit.
I'm doing a lager at the moment so it will be interesting to see how clear it gets.
 
Hop spiders, hop bags, whirlpool arms. Equipment for the gullible. None of theses are needed, a stir with a paddle and a rest to let the cone settle, draw off clear wort. Be aware Home Brew Stores are there to make money, nothing wrong with that. But a paddle and letting everything settle gets a clear wort into the fermenter every time.
Leave the hot break and hops in the kettle.

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Well not really. I've experienced pump blockages (I do let the hops swim free when not adding heaps) and saying a whirlpool arm is for the gullible is like saying the same about my pasta machine when I have a perfectly good rolling pin.
 
I usually add the hot break into the fermenter as I think there's flavour and goodness in there (possibly completely wrong, would be an interesting experiment to compare the 2 methods).

A cold crash settles everything out before bottling and I've had some very clear brews...
 
I usually add the hot break into the fermenter as I think there's flavour and goodness in there (possibly completely wrong, would be an interesting experiment to compare the 2 methods).

A cold crash settles everything out before bottling and I've had some very clear brews...
Hot break you don't want! Cold break is difficult to avoid. Often not visible until the temperature has dropped right down, cold break is supposedly good for the yeast.
 
Well not really. I've experienced pump blockages (I do let the hops swim free when not adding heaps) and saying a whirlpool arm is for the gullible is like saying the same about my pasta machine when I have a perfectly good rolling pin.
The whirlpool arm does nothing that a paddle can do. A rolling pin can't do what a pasta machine can do.
 
When you boil it down to the absolute basics none of anything is needed...you can brew beer in any manky vessel...that's how they did it for hundreds of years. The convenience of the brewday and ease of process execution is just as important to people...you can wash your clothes in a bucket and washboard and hang them out to dry, but we all have washing machines in our homes.

Think a whirlpool arm is a good investment.....cheap, does what it says on the tin and by having the hops in suspension in a gentle whirlpool during the hopstand improves utilisation and improves cooling times (as does swaying the emersion chiller to and fro does in my experience). So for the sake of a tenner its money well spent in my book.
 
saying a whirlpool arm is for the gullible is like saying the same about my pasta machine when I have a perfectly good rolling pin.
💯. What works for one person doesn't necessarily mean it works for everyone. And to say "I don't need one so you're gullible for using one" is just arrogant claptrap. I suspect whoever told you that was just trolling you.

Also, 💯 to what hoppyscotty just said. The same invalid argument could be applied to say AIO/steel units are for the gullible because I make fantastic beer in plastic tubs. 🤷‍♂️
 
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When you boil it down to the absolute basics none of anything is needed...you can brew beer in any manky vessel...that's how they did it for hundreds of years. The convenience of the brewday and ease of process execution is just as important to people...you can wash your clothes in a bucket and washboard and hang them out to dry, but we all have washing machines in our homes.

Think a whirlpool arm is a good investment.....cheap, does what it says on the tin and by having the hops in suspension in a gentle whirlpool during the hopstand improves utilisation and improves cooling times (as does swaying the emersion chiller to and fro does in my experience). So for the sake of a tenner its money well spent in my book.
I agree, one has to keep the HBS in business, the gullible will do that. For me a paddle, no hop spider or bags will get the same result or I would say better, as those who have to use a spider or bag and a whirlpool arm. It doesn't just work for me, it works for anyone who really applies themselves to brewing techniques.
 
@foxy Ive learned alot using your methods to get clear wort into the fermentor. Do you pump your wort out or use the tap? Just curious?

I have the whirlpool arm and have used it on my last few brews but to be honest Ive never really got it to be able to do as much as I had hopped.

Like Foxy says a paddle can really get it whirling much more than the pump.

buddsy
 
The reason for not getting completely clear wort into your fermenter is not because of the whirlpool arm...its because of the false bottom. My whirlpool arm does a completely effective job of gathering up the hops and other stuff into a nice neat cone in the middle of the false bottom, but because the false bottom doesn't work particularly well in my Brewzilla because the holes are too large a diameter and there is no seal around the edge then hop matter gets past during the transfer. The FB in my larger 3 vessel systems mash tun is very effective at passing extremely clear wort into the kettle and the kettle FB is extremely effective at getting clear wort into the fermenter.

A more vigorous whirlpool isn't going to improve the effectiveness. That is a misconception. Like when I poach an egg I stir the water a bit before I drop the egg into it and when I drop the egg into a gentle vortex it gathers up into the centre of the pan forming a nice tight poached egg...if I create too fast a vortex then as soon as I drop an eggs into it, the egg white just centrifuges away and I don't get a nice neat tight poached egg - I get a yolk with a fringe of white and alot of separate clumps of white floating around in the water.

But in any case why would you assume or think that a small amount of stuff getting into your fermenter is particularly detrimental to the resulting beer? Of course get as much of it out as you can, but a small amount is not going to be too detrimental. In my case with my BZ as leaky as the FB is you're still only talking about a few milli litres or centi litres of solid matter in 20 - 25 litres of wort being transferred into the fermenter...and as soon as fermentation kicks off and you start to get yeast trub settling on top of it and compacting onto it then it's no longer in contact with the wort anyway.
 
@foxy Ive learned alot using your methods to get clear wort into the fermentor. Do you pump your wort out or use the tap? Just curious?

I have the whirlpool arm and have used it on my last few brews but to be honest Ive never really got it to be able to do as much as I had hopped.

Like Foxy says a paddle can really get it whirling much more than the pump.

buddsy
I use a tap and dip tube. I stop as soon as any trub appears. Doesn't mean I waste what is left in the kettle. I pour into a jug, the jug goes into the fridge to settle an hour or two. Pour of into a pan and bring up to 80 C either pour into the fermenter or bottle it and use as starters, don't waste it. If you use this method there is no need for any whirlpool and avoids breaking up the hot break into smaller pieces.

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Getting a clear wort into the fermenter helps with the finished beer in clearing and taste. If you have the luxury of removing the trub with a racking arm from the fermenter before adding yeast then just dump the lot into the fermenter
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https://www.themodernbrewhouse.com/trub-seperation-why-and-how/

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One of my pilsners enjoyed just now. Emptied pretty much all of kettle into fermenter, including hot/cold break.
No issues with clarity...
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Clear into a fermenter, clear out. You will get those who say they have been brewing for 20 years, that it doesn't matter about clarity it does. Especially when entering a comp where the 3 judges are fair dinkum certified, not recognised or laymen. Then you will really know how your beer is rated.

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In your opinion is there anything you miss out on by not including the 'bits' at the bottom? I use whirlfloc and have no doubt if I waited I could could rack very clear wort into the fermenter. I'm just concerned I'll miss out on the flavour/proteins/character that may be in the residue...?

Genuine question. I prefer flavour over clarity but have produced very clear brews which I consider a bonus...
 
In your opinion is there anything you miss out on by not including the 'bits' at the bottom? I use whirlfloc and have no doubt if I waited I could could rack very clear wort into the fermenter. I'm just concerned I'll miss out on the flavour/proteins/character that may be in the residue...?

Genuine question. I prefer flavour over clarity but have produced very clear brews which I consider a bonus...
If you were a brewer who regularly entered comps then you would have found out by now that flavour and clarity are judged simultaneously. Entering comps isn't about your preference but what the judges deem to be to style, No matter, if you are enjoying what you are brewing stick with that.
 

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