This is the lager right? Yes I would allow temp to rise up to 18-19c and hold for a few days. If you're needing to heat to raise temperature, allow a degree or two per day.
Once it's carbonated and then stored cold it should become compact on the bottom of the bottle. Depending on temperature outdoors, after cold storing for a couple of weeks, consider getting as many in the fridge as you can for another 2 weeks and after that, the longer the better!Time for an update. My Cerveza appears to be carbing up nicely, and almost all of it is lovely and clear. View attachment 23880
However, the sediment is very loose and needs little encouragement to distribute itself through the beer
View attachment 23881
Will this firm up once carbing is done and it goes outside to cold condition? I hope so as I am onto a very clear and bright beer here but unsire what these rogue particles are.....
Once it's carbonated and then stored cold it should become compact on the bottom of the bottle. Depending on temperature outdoors, after cold storing for a couple of weeks, consider getting as many in the fridge as you can for another 2 weeks and after that, the longer the better!
That's what I do with lagers. Wish I had space for a beer fridge.Cheers Ben. Helpful as everI dont have much fridge space so probably will have to be outside at ambient then as many as possible rotated in to the fridge as far in advance of drinking as I can.
Several questions:
- You used lager yeast, right? (you didn't cheat and use ale yeast?)
- Do you know what level of carbonation you were aiming for? (i.e. how much sugar did you add?)
- Where did you leave the bottles to carbonate, and at what temperature roughly?
I had similar issues with a Helles I made recently and I did some experimenting, here:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/helles-not-carbing-options.84567/post-861576
I got various different results, but overall just giving it more time (a few weeks more) all of them carbonated very nicely in the end. I think it could just be that lager yeasts work slower and you need to give it a bit more time than you would an ale yeast.
Cheers,
Matt
Well, I'm not gonna tell you what to do..... but FWIW I've only ever used glass bottles, never had PET ones. In the case of my Helles I put 8 of them in the airing cupboard for a week and they carbed up nicely in that time (N.B. they'd already been bottled for 4 weeks at this point) and more than the other methods I tried. But after another month or two all of them seemed well carbonated.Thanks for the reply. I used a White Labs Mexican lager yeast. I was going for about 2.8 Co2 vol. 100 grams of sugar IIRC. Carbed up for 12 days upstairs in my house which is probably consistent at 19 or 20 degrees. Left it there for 12 days at which point I started to get nervy as the bottles were getting pretty hard. I felt it was probably there. Perhaps I need to be braver on that....
One thing I will say is I have not yet opened a glass crown cap bottle. Perhaps theres been an issue of holding pressure in my PET bettles/caps which are on their third use.
Well, I'm not gonna tell you what to do..... but FWIW I've only ever used glass bottles, never had PET ones. In the case of my Helles I put 8 of them in the airing cupboard for a week and they carbed up nicely in that time (N.B. they'd already been bottled for 4 weeks at this point) and more than the other methods I tried. But after another month or two all of them seemed well carbonated.
Honestly, I think it's just a case of giving the lager yeast more time to do it's thing - which is pretty much the advice I was given!
Nothing wrong with what you're suggesting but make sure you use a recipe calculator to make sure the IBUs don't go up too high. I think the bitterness of Kolsch pseudo-lagers are low, around the mid 20s. An extra 1 minute addition that you leave in while chilling might have the desired effect.Brewday tomorrow.
Only question I currently have is following the lack of hop punch on my Cerveza, will there be any unintended issues with either upping whatever the Kolsch recipe last addition hops are, or maybe doing an additional flameout addition?
Nothing wrong with what you're suggesting but make sure you use a recipe calculator to make sure the IBUs don't go up too high. I think the bitterness of Kolsch pseudo-lagers are low, around the mid 20s. An extra 1 minute addition that you leave in while chilling might have the desired effect.
This is where I have a problem, in that I currently dont have a chiller. So far I havent adjusted hop additions or timings to account for that. But what I was thinking was maybe decant from boiler to FV after boil using a filter to avoid extra IBUs from the late addition, but add additional hops to the FV which will be filled with obviously cooling wort.
IIRC saaz is the later addition hops so would put them into the FV.
You could wait until the wort in the kettle has dropped to 80c and then add hops to the kettle. This way the additional bitterness is negligible (look into whirlpool additions - brewing software will tell you the IBUs being added which are going to be very low compared to adding at end of boil). Or you could just dry hop at end of fermentation.
I think after 10/20 mins at 80cyou will have extracted all the flavour from the hops that you will get. You could leave for a little longer but after that you won't benefit from additional flavour or aroma. If you then want to add additional flavour and aroma you could dry hop later.After the amount of trub in my last brew I was hoping to do at least some sort of filtering between boiler and FV this time. I would be loathe to lose those hops so quickly after adding them. That's why I was thinking hot wort into FV to cool removing boil hops, and that last addition doesnt get boiled at all, reducing any unwanted IBUs from wither the boil or the last addition hops. Does that make sense?
Enter your email address to join: