darrenwest1
Landlord.
no mate the neon wires draw no current at all
the element does not draw its power whrough those wires
the element does not draw its power whrough those wires
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graysalchemy
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2010
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Ah I did wonder why when I go to work I make picture frames and not repair domestic appliances :lol:
evanvine
Landlord.
The connector does come with screw terminals, but the wire in the cable is too thick to make a good connection.graysalchemy said:
I have soldered mine and have had no problems.
If enough heat is being generated to melt soft solder there is a problem else where, possibly the springiness in the connecting plug females not up to the job.
C
cnelsonplumber
Guest
I spoke to our sparkies about this, solder will melt but only if it gets hot enough, the only source of sufficient heat, given that the correctly rated wire and connectors are used, is a high resistance due to poor soldering. If you have a good look at a push on connector, the actual area in cont act is less than a good soldered joint.graysalchemy said:
It's difficult to know when you have a poor solder joint . . . until the thing bursts into flames, which is why all high current connections are crimped . . . Its easy to find out if you have a poor crimped connector . . . give it a damn good tug 
Also solder to steel has a higher resistance than copper to steel for the same rated current, so the solder joint is at a disadvantage from the start.
Also solder to steel has a higher resistance than copper to steel for the same rated current, so the solder joint is at a disadvantage from the start.
baz burger
Active Member
can the two kettle elements be plugged in without using a pid controller.
Vossy1
Landlord.
Yep, you don't need to have a PID controller :thumb:
C
cnelsonplumber
Guest
I have nearly finished my HERMS here with the same element and enclosure I used for my HLT and copper. I took some proper pictures this time and thought I would share. :thumb
Screwfix IP66 enclosure, the useful bits from a Tesco kettle and a 1 1/2" poly washer.
First cut a 38.1mm hole for the element. I used a Q max for this, then use the washer supplied with the kettle.
Because the stainless is not as thick as the original plastic kettle it is a bit of a rattling fit. Using a poly washer will take up the slack and it seals as tight as a drum.
Drill a little pilot hole in the back of the box
Open up the hole with a 44mm ring cutter for a very snug fit
This gives a nice neat hole, save the little rubber plugs which seal the screw holes in the back of the box
Trim up the plugs with a sharp knife
Insert the black part of the kettle element and secure with a self tapper at the bottom and a 3mm bolt through the top.
A small hole drilled in the top lets the neon show when the element is on.
That's about it really just the gland and the cable to go in
Screwfix IP66 enclosure, the useful bits from a Tesco kettle and a 1 1/2" poly washer.
First cut a 38.1mm hole for the element. I used a Q max for this, then use the washer supplied with the kettle.
Because the stainless is not as thick as the original plastic kettle it is a bit of a rattling fit. Using a poly washer will take up the slack and it seals as tight as a drum.
Drill a little pilot hole in the back of the box
Open up the hole with a 44mm ring cutter for a very snug fit
This gives a nice neat hole, save the little rubber plugs which seal the screw holes in the back of the box
Trim up the plugs with a sharp knife
Insert the black part of the kettle element and secure with a self tapper at the bottom and a 3mm bolt through the top.
A small hole drilled in the top lets the neon show when the element is on.
That's about it really just the gland and the cable to go in
