Boiler elements waterproof enclosures

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cnelsonplumber

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My boiler build is progressing now and I used the attached set up to cover the back of the Tesco elements.

The enclosures are IP66 from Screwfix and the smallest that I could find to accommodate the element after I trimmed of the cut off part with a junior hacksaw.

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The latest Tesco kettles have an extended top section on the main switch moulding and a screw opening on the bottom, this allows the element to be bolted into the enclosure top and bottom and makes it very secure.

A small amount of sealer around the hole cut in the back of the enclosure restores the watertight integrity. This has been hose pipe tested and is completely waterproof.

The green neon in the top is a bit of bling as a 3mm hole for the tesco neon was a bit naff.

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evanvine said:
If you cut the rest of the vertical extension off, you can fit a circular shroud and use the "plug in lead" facillity.
Which would fail a hose pipe test :shock: :whistle: ;)
 
I like the waterproof design alot :thumb:
However, I'm too tight and lazy to make one for now so rely on not being careless with a hosepipe, and an RCD power supply. :oops: no problems so far.
 
I too went the IP66 box route, I know what 115V shocks feel like and don't want to experience a high current 240V one.
 
That impressive!!

I had been put off the value kettle route because it always looked a bit bodged & dodgy. I'd figured splashing out the cash (£25) on a "proper" kettle element would have been worth it for the peace of mind of safety. But if these are "hose proof" then surely this is a cheaper AND safer alternative to something like this http://www.hopandgrape.com/public/detailv1.asp?itemcode=ELE20206569

Please correct me if I'm wrong / have missed anything!

Also, has anyone had any luck with the cheapo Wilko kettles, theres not a TESCO near me. I'm guessing they are going to be pretty much the same.

And am I right in thinking the Tesco elements need a 38 mm hole?
 
I used a 40mm Qmax cutter to cut out the opening for the Tesco elements. :thumb:

This gives a perfect diameter hole for the sealing 'sandwich' gasket, although the stockpot is not as thick as the plastic kettle and I used a 1 1/2" poly washer to make up the difference.

This works perfectly and stops the whole lot rotating due to the three screws 'bottoming out' before the two halves of the element pull up tight on either side of the stock pot.
 
darrenwest1 said:
evanvine said:
keith1664 said:
I know what 115V shocks feel like and don't want to experience a high current 240V one.
It just hurts a little more! :whistle:
the voltage wont hurt you
it is the current that bites
ive had quite a few im afraid

Yup... thats why I steer clear of the big thick wires.
 
Is that a temperature probe built into the boiler?
If so where did you source it from?
 
Allgrain said:
Is that a temperature probe built into the boiler?
If so where did you source it from?

This little beauty is a PT100 thermocouple available from Virtual Village and other sellers on ebay for around £5 ish plus P & P.

It can be used via a PID See Big Yin's guide in the How to section or simply to monitor temperature.

Here and here is some relevant stuff.
 
got 2 of these new tesco kettles. do you have to do anything with the neon wires.also what do you do with the plate and pin on the back.cheers
 
remove the plate and the pin thats the thermostat i robbed the tops off swmbo tony and guy hair spray the fit really snugly over the trimmed down backs
 
do i have to cut the wires for the neon, also do i have to solder the terminals as in big yin's how to, as i don't have the tools. can they be taped.
 
Something in the back of my head says your not meant to solder them? I'm sure I read that when I made mine. Wouldn't normal solder run the risk of melting with the current from a kettle element?
 

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