Beginners Guide to Water Treatment (plus links to more advanced water treatment in post #1)

[Argentum]

Hmm, I used a Salifert Alkalinity test kit to get that number but this generic overview of the water in my area would suggest otherwise. However I do not know how old it is. I am inclined to go with the results from the test kit.

View attachment 53692

There is nothing within your water supply zone report that is indicating Alkalinity (as CaCO3). Clark, French, and German Degrees are all in reference to Total Hardness, and are merely different means of representing the Total Hardness. Hardness is not Alkalinity. Both Hardness and Alkalinity are however 'normalized' to CaCO3, but this does not at all imply that both are the same, as they are clearly not.

Short version: This report does not tell you your waters Alkalinity.

Edit: I see where you used a Salifert kit to determine your Alkalinity.
For reference:
17.848 x German dH units = mg/L (ppm) units
GH = Total Hardness in dH units
KH = Alkalinity in dH units

 

[RPeters]

Hi all, I've got myself into a muddle trying to work out my additives. I'm going to be brewing a neipa at the weekend so i understand i require a chloride rich water profile, so I'll add calcium chloride. It's the ratio's where i start to get confused, am i meant to add Gypsum for sulphate still? Or would that add too much Calcium?
I will be using Tesco Ashbeck water for a 23 litre batch. If someone could assist, that would be fantastic. Cheers!

 

[foxy]

Hi all, I've got myself into a muddle trying to work out my additives. I'm going to be brewing a neipa at the weekend so i understand i require a chloride rich water profile, so I'll add calcium chloride. It's the ratio's where i start to get confused, am i meant to add Gypsum for sulphate still? Or would that add too much Calcium?
I will be using Tesco Ashbeck water for a 23 litre batch. If someone could assist, that would be fantastic. Cheers!

Gordon Strong uses RO water so I would be adding what he does.
https://byo.com/article/neipa-style-profile/

 

[RPeters]

Gordon Strong uses RO water so I would be adding what he does.
https://byo.com/article/neipa-style-profile/

Thank you! I shall give it a read

 

[JonathanMSE]

I don't know if this will be of use to anyone. But I've taken the info in the original post and made it into a flowchart/reference document for myself

 

[UKSkydiver]

I do like a diagram (flowchart in this instance) but whichever, I'm a visual person.

 

[curtiskenny]

Sorry if this has already been covered - but water treatment is new to me and I'm interested in treating the water for my BIAB brews.

For alkalinity it is mentioned that this should be different for mash and sparge water. In the case of BIAB should I just treat all the water as mash water?

My water report states both alkalinity (18.5ppm) and calcium (10ppm) are quite low with a pH of 7.6

 

[foxy]

Sorry if this has already been covered - but water treatment is new to me and I'm interested in treating the water for my BIAB brews.

For alkalinity it is mentioned that this should be different for mash and sparge water. In the case of BIAB should I just treat all the water as mash water?

My water report states both alkalinity (18.5ppm) and calcium (10ppm) are quite low with a pH of 7.6

The mash and sparge should be different because of the buffering effect of the grains in the mash. But aren't you doing a full volume mash with brew in a bag?

 

[curtiskenny]

The mash and sparge should be different because of the buffering effect of the grains in the mash. But aren't you doing a full volume mash with brew in a bag?

Yes, what's what I was trying to say - the whole of the water is being used for mash in BIAB. As there is no sparge should I be treating all the water to the required ppm level for mash?

 

[foxy]

Yes, what's what I was trying to say - the whole of the water is being used for mash in BIAB. As there is no sparge should I be treating all the water to the required ppm level for mash?

Then you will only have to treat the mash water.
If you want to keep water treatment simple only mash the base malt, and if you are using a flaked adjunct put that in a bag as well. The none fermentable grains steep separately. Either a cold or hot steep then add that liquor to the boil.
That way your water additions will always be in the same ball park. The only thing to remember is to take into account the steeping liquor, I know someone who didn't once.

 

[Twogunrocky]

strange-steve

Would you be so kind as to jot down a brief target water for a raspberry sour, as I'm unsure which to accentuate, the sulphate or chloride....
It's 3/2 pilsner malt/wheat malt & frozen raspberry addition.

Thanks very much

 

[Mash Monster]

strange-steve

Would you be so kind as to jot down a brief target water for a raspberry sour, as I'm unsure which to accentuate, the sulphate or chloride....
It's 3/2 pilsner malt/wheat malt & frozen raspberry addition.

Thanks very much

I think Strange-Steve has taken a break from the forum maybe someone else can help you

 

[Sven]

Cap doffed, great guide. Cheers!

 

[NeilE1970]

No the stuff in your link is sodium carbonate which isn't the same as sodium bicarbonate. The stuff you want is baking soda/bicarbonate of soda which you can get in the baking section of tesco.
Epsom salts is magnesium sulphate which isn't really required for brewing, even with RO water, because the mash adds more than enough magnesium to the wort.

Sodium bicarbonate / Bicarbonate of soda is also known as sodium hydrogen carbonate. NaHCO3

 

[Theoriginalrich]

I think I've made about 20 beers since these water treatment conversations. I 100% made the whole process to scientific and overly complex. I have now really got a grip on my dosages for my water and it really is now quite straight forward and I am making beer that all my family and friends genuinely look forward to drinking.

This is good to know as it scares me a little. Practice makes perfect as the saying goes.

 

[Galena]

This is good to know as it scares me a little. Practice makes perfect as the saying goes.

Yeh, it used to scare me but it really is quite easy, you don't actually need to know any of the calcs. Peebee in trying to make it simpler actually manages to make it sound more complicated.
All you actually need to know is those 6 numbers that go in your water calculator of choice, there are 3 ways that I know of to arrive at these figures. A paid for water analysis by somebody like Phoenix Analytical (£35), a water report from your water company (that is probably lacking or confusing) or a Salifert or API test (you do your self and the kit costs just £10). Or a combination.
That gives you your 6 numbers, you then adjust your salts (and acid) additions to get the required pH and flavour profile and off you go.

If the numbers are slightly off (in particular HCO3) and you miss your pH then take note and next time adjust your additions to try and correct it.
Job done.

 

[Theoriginalrich]

Yeh, it used to scare me but it really is quite easy, you don't actually need to know any of the calcs. Peebee in trying to make it simpler actually manages to make it sound more complicated.
All you actually need to know is those 6 numbers that go in your water calculator of choice, there are 3 ways that I know of to arrive at these figures. A paid for water analysis by somebody like Phoenix Analytical (£35), a water report from your water company (that is probably lacking or confusing) or a Salifert or API test (you do your self and the kit costs just £10). Or a combination.
That gives you your 6 numbers, you then adjust your salts (and acid) additions to get the required pH and flavour profile and off you go.

If the numbers are slightly off (in particular HCO3) and you miss your pH then take note and next time adjust your additions to try and correct it.
Job done.

It was scaring the crap out of me I almost decided to forget everything and carry on as I was, but reading some links certain members had posted and ignoring the very confusing (to a noobie) replies I’m now looking forward to tomorrow and the resulting beer.
Thanks to those that have helped and even those who have baffled me.

 

[bobukbrewer]

CHALLENGE - my water is 226 ppm hardness as CaCO3, alkalinity 115, Ca 75 Mg 9 chloride 68 SO4 117 Na 39
I currently treat 32 litres of water with 15 gm AMS solution and 1/3 campden tablet
Am I in the right ballpark for 3.8% pale SMASH beers
I am a BIAB man
thanks

 

[Sadfield]

CHALLENGE - my water is 226 ppm hardness as CaCO3, alkalinity 115, Ca 75 Mg 9 chloride 68 SO4 117 Na 39
I currently treat 32 litres of water with 15 gm AMS solution and 1/3 campden tablet
Am I in the right ballpark for 3.8% pale SMASH beers
I am a BIAB man
thanks

You've enough calcium and the AMS will reduce alkalinity. So, if your mash pH falls in range and you enjoy the beer, then yes.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

You've enough calcium and the AMS will reduce alkalinity. So, if your mash pH falls in range and you enjoy the beer, then yes.

As @Sadfield says, the key thing is to get the mash pH in the range about 5.2 - 5.6
wait about 5-10min after adding the grains and then check the pH with either narrow-range test strips or a digital meter (preferably cool the sample a bit first)