Another newbie..

[Anto2006]

Hi all :) First brew, wilko feeling hoppy, made up per instructions... pitched yeast at 24c 1062 I think it said on the hydrometer well it was hanging around the start beer line, it’s been kept at about 21/22c with a brew belt, I put the hops in on day 5 it smelled ok tbh an the hydrometer readings 1018, the bubble thing is about every 20-30 seconds the krausen has gone but left the scum mark like a dirty bath.. I guess my question is, does all this sound about right? Also I’ve bought a keg & bottles... which should I use? Thanks

 

[Davy6Mac]

Sounds about right to me. Yes the keg and bottles question. I personally use both to serve my beer, the bottles are great if you just fancy a couple of pints now and again but they take time to fill. The kegs are good if you are going to have a good session drinking the beer, over a weekend etc. Basically down to personal preference but make sure the kegs and bottles are clean and sanitised you don't want to ruin your hard work so far

 

[An Ankoù]

Welcome, Anto.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Hi!

I made this kit once myself but it was a long time ago and I can’t remember hydrometer readings etc. The beer wasn’t bad at all for a simple kit.

The description you give and the pictures look fine. If your bubble trap is still bubbling there is still fermentation activity so give it another couple of days in the fermenter - 2 weeks is what most people allow. You shouldn’t believe you’ll be drinking the beer in 20 days or whatever they promise on the tin.

I prefer a keg for a beer but many others prefer bottles. Bottling is a chore though because you have to clean, sterilise, fill, prime many bottles. With a keg, you do this once. I also prefer the beer from a keg, you get a better head and for me a nicer pint. On the downside some people struggle with loosing pressure when they use kegs - they can’t get them to seal properly. If you want to hedge your bets, bottle some and put the rest in the keg!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Anto2006]

Sounds about right to me. Yes the keg and bottles question. I personally use both to serve my beer, the bottles are great if you just fancy a couple of pints now and again but they take time to fill. The kegs are good if you are going to have a good session drinking the beer, over a weekend etc. Basically down to personal preference but make sure the kegs and bottles are clean and sanitised you don't want to ruin your hard work so far
[/QUOTE nice to hear, thanks, I was just gunna keg the first, check how it tasted... drink it quick while making the second and hopefully better one for the bottles, then I can share a few :) as for the cleaning.. the Mrs has a cleaning habit n I think I may have rubbed off on me! My kitchen was like a surgery last Saturday.. thanks

 

[Anto2006]

Hi!

I made this kit once myself but it was a long time ago and I can’t remember hydrometer readings etc. The beer wasn’t bad at all for a simple kit.

The description you give and the pictures look fine. If your bubble trap is still bubbling there is still fermentation activity so give it another couple of days in the fermenter - 2 weeks is what most people allow. You shouldn’t believe you’ll be drinking the beer in 20 days or whatever they promise on the tin.

I prefer a keg for a beer but many others prefer bottles. Bottling is a chore though because you have to clean, sterilise, fill, prime many bottles. With a keg, you do this once. I also prefer the beer from a keg, you get a better head and for me a nicer pint. On the downside some people struggle with loosing pressure when they use kegs - they can’t get them to seal properly. If you want to hedge your bets, bottle some and put the rest in the keg!

Welcome to the forum!

Yea lol 21 days... I think I’ll go keg, & next Saturday it will have had two weeks in the bin so should be good, I’m thinking use the hydrometer wed/thur just to be sure?
Thanks for reply

 

[terrym]

Yea lol 21 days... I think I’ll go keg, & next Saturday it will have had two weeks in the bin so should be good, I’m thinking use the hydrometer wed/thur just to be sure?
Thanks for reply

Welcome to the forum.
If you have a new unused pressure barrel (PB) I suggest you check it over before you commit to putting beer into it. Even new PBs are known to leak let alone used ones.
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=67042

 

[NPi]

Hi @Anto2006

Welcome to the forum. Depending on how many bottles you have you could do both, and see which you prefer. For this you will need to fit the bottler attachment to the keg, batch prime (add sugar to the beer once its in the keg), then fill some bottles. This will leave some beer in the keg, from which you can remove the bottler attachment. Doing this will also evenly distribute the priming sugar through all the beer.

Both the keg and bottles will take time to carbonate (2 weeks inside), then will taste best if you can leave to condition (2 weeks ideally). Conditioning is key but you will be tempted to have a few as they mature.

This is not a bad thing, as it let's you see how the beer changes when conditioning.

Cheers, Nick

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Yea lol 21 days... I think I’ll go keg, & next Saturday it will have had two weeks in the bin so should be good, I’m thinking use the hydrometer wed/thur just to be sure?
Thanks for reply

The advice when starting out is to test with the hydrometer when you think it’s stopped fermenting and again two days later. If the two readings are the same it’s done. If they differ, try again in another couple of days.

This is more important if you’re bottling because if fermentation isn’t finished, it will continue in the bottle and create excessive pressure - your beer would be over carbed and worst case would be a blown bottle.

In the keg any excess pressure is just vented through the pressure release valve.

 

[Anto2006]

Welcome to the forum.
If you have a new unused pressure barrel (PB) I suggest you check it over before you commit to putting beer into it. Even new PBs are known to leak let alone used ones.
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=67042

I will do that , thanks, just water and gas it up then?

 

[Anto2006]

The advice when starting out is to test with the hydrometer when you think it’s stopped fermenting and again two days later. If the two readings are the same it’s done. If they differ, try again in another couple of days.

This is more important if you’re bottling because if fermentation isn’t finished, it will continue in the bottle and create excessive pressure - your beer would be over carbed and worst case would be a blown bottle.

In the keg any excess pressure is just vented through the pressure release valve.

I shall do that then thanks, and think I’ll go pb for first time.. but say it’s ready Wednesday.. it will be ok in the bin till say Saturday? With belt still on, I’ll be at work till Saturday see
Thanks

 

[terrym]

I will do that , thanks, just water and gas it up then?

Check everything, fettle as required, vaseline to joints where applicable including tap gasket, then gas up. Then leave it for a few hours or even days if you have them to see if it holds the pressure. Soapy water at the ready, At least then you have the best chance of it being pressure tight when you commit your beer to it,
And be guided by your hydrometer reading not time to determine whether your beer is ready to package. When it's achieved the expected SG and that has been consistent for two or three days you can go ahead, but its better to then move the FV to the coldest place you have for a couple of days to help it clear, then package. And keep the lid on!

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

I shall do that then thanks, and think I’ll go pb for first time.. but say it’s ready Wednesday.. it will be ok in the bin till say Saturday? With belt still on, I’ll be at work till Saturday see
Thanks

Yes, that will be fine. If fermenting is done you won’t need the heat belt any more. In fact, chilling the beer will help make it more clear.

 

[Anto2006]

Hi @Anto2006

Welcome to the forum. Depending on how many bottles you have you could do both, and see which you prefer. For this you will need to fit the bottler attachment to the keg, batch prime (add sugar to the beer once its in the keg), then fill some bottles. This will leave some beer in the keg, from which you can remove the bottler attachment. Doing this will also evenly distribute the priming sugar through all the beer.

Both the keg and bottles will take time to carbonate (2 weeks inside), then will taste best if you can leave to condition (2 weeks ideally). Conditioning is key but you will be tempted to have a few as they mature.

This is not a bad thing, as it let's you see how the beer changes when conditioning.

Cheers, Nick

Sounds like an idea, thank you, so once in keg/bottle I should really be waiting 4weejs?

 

[Anto2006]

Check everything, fettle as required, vaseline to joints where applicable including tap gasket, then gas up. Then leave it for a few hours or even days if you have them to see if it holds the pressure. Soapy water at the ready, At least then you have the best chance of it being pressure tight when you commit your beer to it,
And be guided by your hydrometer reading not time to determine whether your beer is ready to package. When it's achieved the expected SG and that has been consistent for two or three days you can go ahead, but its better to then move the FV to the coldest place you have for a couple of days to help it clear, then package. And keep the lid on!

Thanks for the advice, the lid for the barrel had no gasket?? From wilko of course.. I have complained and also ordered 2 online which are due soon, do they all have that top gasket? Cheers

 

[terrym]

Thanks for the advice, the lid for the barrel had no gasket?? From wilko of course.. I have complained and also ordered 2 online which are due soon, do they all have that top gasket? Cheers

You will be unable to make a seal without the large ring gasket between cap and PB. They often leak from that point even with a gasket.
Welcome to the wonderful world of PBs!

 

[NPi]

Sounds like an idea, thank you, so once in keg/bottle I should really be waiting 4weejs?

If you can stop yourself. There's nothing wrong with sampling as you go, but I would say try to leave some till the 4 week mark. It should then be suitably carbonated, lovely and clear and nicely matured.

Just remember to store the bottles standing upright, warm for 2 weeks then cold for 2 weeks.

Cheers, Nick

 

[Anto2006]

You will be unable to make a seal without the large ring gasket between cap and PB. They often leak from that point even with a gasket.
Welcome to the wonderful world of PBs!

So it may not have ever had one... One more thing, I brought finings but unsure weather to use? Is it just chemicals?

 

[Anto2006]

If you can stop yourself. There's nothing wrong with sampling as you go, but I would say try to leave some till the 4 week mark. It should then be suitably carbonated, lovely and clear and nicely matured.

Just remember to store the bottles standing upright, warm for 2 weeks then cold for 2 weeks.

Cheers, Nick

Dam, 4 weeks.. the one thing I’m blessed with is patience once it’s ready to bottle/keg I will just have to brew another:)) thanks again

 

[terrym]

So it may not have ever had one... One more thing, I brought finings but unsure weather to use? Is it just chemicals?

All PBs have a cap gasket
And some use finings. Some don't, including me. Most homebrewed beers will clear given time and gravity, and after carbing a cold place will help. But if you are looking for crystal clear beer early on it might be what you are looking for.
Finally you may not be aware that homebrewed beer requires a period of conditioning. So although beer may be drinkable a month on from packaging, some beers can take many weeks before they hit their best. A rule of thumb is the darker the beer, the higher the ABV the longer it will take.