Alemans Effin Erdinger Recipe

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thanks. Would the oat husks still be necessary with BIAB? also I'm yet to get a fridge to house my stc-1000, would fermenting it at 18 degrees or so the whole way through cause any problems do you think?

Thanks!
 
marksa222 said:
thanks. Would the oat husks still be necessary with BIAB? also I'm yet to get a fridge to house my stc-1000, would fermenting it at 18 degrees or so the whole way through cause any problems do you think?
I don' think you'll have any issues, with a 'stuck' mash, and fermenting at 18C will be fine. You may miss the development of some of the clove flavours, but it will still be fine and tasty
 
Thanks. I'll be getting this on the go at the weekend all being well. Can I ask one more thing though... how would you carbonate 20 litres thats going in bottles?
 
Hello,

If you have a bottling bucket or use a pressure barrel with a little bottler attached I would use about 140g of sugar mixed in about 300mls of previously boiled water.
You don't want to add this hot to your barrel but about 30C won't hurt once it's mixed in with the beer.
Once you have the sugar solution in your bottling bucket, siphon the beer from the FV onto the sugar solution. When you have all the beer across, put the lid on the bottling bucket and swill it to mix the sugar solution into the beer.

Then proceed to bottle your beer,if you haven't got a little bottler I would advise you get one.
You then put the little bottler into your sanitised bottle and push up you will see the beer climb up the inside of the bottle.

Slow down the flow when you get near the top by pulling the bottle down slightly, your fill level should be to the top of the bottle and when you remove the bottle down and away from the little bottler your beer will have the correct amount of head space for the CO2 produced during
Carbonation.

Take next bottle and repeat, don't forget to sanitise your caps!

Also don't forget to store these freshly filled and capped bottles somewhere about 20C for a couple of weeks to carbonate fully, I use plastic bottles with my weissbeirs and use the squeeze test to see when I can start drinking them ;)

Hope this helps :thumb:
 
Thank you, this does help alot. 140g sugar in 300mls is the amount I was looking for. I only ask because everything I've read suggests it should be highly carbonated, but I don't remember wheat beer being too fizzy. It might just be that the cloudyness makes it less obvious.

I forgot to ask rob at MM to crush the grain finer as I'm doing BIAB and i'm finding him quite hard to get hold of (2 unanswered emails this week, but order processed and already shipped) so I'll do a mash out (need to read up on it first) as it might help the efficiency. I'm going to go for a mash temp of 68 degrees and make sure I stir properly before taking too much notice of the thermometre on my pot! (mistake I made last time... showed at 66 degrees, put it on heat ti increase a couple of points and never budged the reading for about 15 mins... actually got up to 80 degrees after I mixed it all round :doh: )
 
This is a really recipe with good tips. I have made this before with WB-06 and it turned out great.

Just a note that this time I split the batch and did half with WB-06 and the other to try out this Mangrove Jacks Bavarian yeast.

Now the ManGroves packet says 18-30oC and sure enough it didn't take off until the temperature was cranked up to 18oC, the WB-06 seemed to take hold well before, but it's packet says 12-24oC.

Will be interesting see if what the differences are.....
 
Just a follow up on the WB06 vs Mangrove Jack M20 Bavarian, split batch yeast test.

OG 1.054
WB06 FG 1.006 attenuation of 88% !
MJG FG 1.011 attenuation of 79%

As noted before the MGJ didn't move until temperature brought over 18oC and even after 2 weeks it left a funny looking 'skin' on top that just sat there.

Anyway, have some bubbles in the beer as I force carb, both taste similar, but the MJG is sweeter and even more fruity/apply. I presume this will fade over a few weeks. Personally I'm not the greatest hefeweissbier fan as I find them too sweet and fruity, I prefer more bitterness as well. However, the brew is I guess on mark to the style and although wheat beer splits the drinking public there are many people who really love this beer/recipe.

Probably stick with WB06 as I like the proven low temperature starting profile effects.
 
Aleman said:
It could be a long slow sparge with that much wheat, so 500g of oat hulls should be added to the mash to aid in the lauter.
Aleman said:
I think I used 150g in this beer so they do last . . .
Could somebody clarify just how many oat husks should be used?
 
jonnymorris said:
Aleman said:
It could be a long slow sparge with that much wheat, so 500g of oat hulls should be added to the mash to aid in the lauter.
Aleman said:
I think I used 150g in this beer so they do last . . .
Could somebody clarify just how many oat husks should be used?
5!
 
I would go with 5-10% of the weight of the wheat in the grist so 2Kg of Wheat malt . . . 150-200g oat hulls
 
never used any rice or husks , i have a false bottom in my mash and use herms (which can compact mash bed and make a stuck mash more likely) and i've never had a stuck mash . I always use at least 60% wheat malt . Must be lucky :grin:
 
pittsy said:
never used any rice or husks , i have a false bottom in my mash and use herms (which can compact mash bed and make a stuck mash more likely) and i've never had a stuck mash . I always use at least 60% wheat malt . Must be lucky :grin:

Good Mash
GoodMash.jpg


Bad Mash

BadMash1.jpg
BadMash2.jpg


Funnily enough I had no issue when I was running the Herms . . . Just when I tried to sparge it . . .All the Glucans (It was an oatmeal stout) . . . just gummed up one of the tuns . . .both of which have a full diameter false bottom . . .And the bad mash had oat husks as well . . . well it did the second time I dug it out
 
The bad mash took 24 hours to drain . . . and even then retained 20 odd litres of wort
 
Rivvo said:
Does anyone have the extract conversion recipe for this please?
That's a tricky one?

The muntons wheat spray malt is 40:60 pale : wheat, so however much of that you need to hit 1.052-1.054 . . .keep everything else the same
 
Beersmith shows the extract value of wheat spray malt at 1.044ppg. I'm guessing this won't be far out, and on that basis the recipe would be (for 25 Litres)

3.5kg Wheat spray malt

18g Tettnang Hops (90 Minutes)
12g Perle Hops ( 90 Minutes)

10g Tettnang Hops (45 Minutes)

10g Tettnang Hops ( 15 minutes)
 
Thanks very much, does it need a 90 minute boil using extract, I thought it would reduce the boil time to 45-60 minutes?
 
Any length of boil really, 15 is fine, but you need to extract hop bitterness, so maybe do a 45 minute boil. I get 18 IBUs in Brewmate by simply adding the 90 minute hops in Aleman's recipe to the 45 minute hops, but reducing the Perle hops as the AA% of the 2012 Perle is 10%.

9g Perle (10%) 45 mins

28g Tett (3.6%) 45 mins

10g Tett (3.6%) 15 mins
 

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