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Muntons make almost all the UK beer kits, except, of course, Coopers from S. Australia. https://www.muntons.com/beer-kits/

I think the thing about Old Rosie is to get a malo-lactic fermentation after the initial one, which gives the cider a smoother and less harsh taste. Culturing up from a couple of bottles should be straightforward, but takes time, cleanliness and patience. Adding Supermarket AJ to lengthen the...

Rice hulls are a useful addition if you use sticky stuff like wheat malt, rye malt or oats. You probably need ~ 2.7L water per kilo of grain, plus the dead space volume for mash water. As Tom says, some sort of weak acid will help remove burnt gunk on the bottom. White Vinegar is my go to - it...

With the Coopers PET bottles there must be some pressure released, as the screw tops must have some gas leakage and the PRT itself may not be completely impervious.

I had not seen these kits before, but used to frequent the shop that Spitting Feathers had in Bolton. The proprietor, a guy called Seb, probably gets his kits from Muntons and I can't imagine there is another UK manufacturer. He also seems to be about the same price as on-line suppliers, so...

Yes, it will be fine. As for the hoppy taste, not my gig. Traditional English and Belgian beers are my preference. For reference, those who do hoppy beers would not think much of adding more. Much more. "Best Advice", try it early and if it does not suit, try more next time, but leave the...

The regular Muntons yeast is reputed to be Nottingham Ale yeast. Perfectly good for most British styles. No idea what the Muntons Gold yeast is, but would not be surprised if it were the same yeast in a bigger sachet. Why not have a look at the Muntons corporate website - there might be some...

I re-use yeast routinely. Rack a beer made with a new sachet of dried yeast and rack to secondary fermenter at two weeks. Pour the slurry and beer remains into a sterilized jug and thence into say 4 x 250ml bottles that originally held lemonade. Keeps fine for a couple of months and best if you...

If it comes out a little too bitter, this will fade in time. Home made beer can be perfectly drinkable after a year in the bottle.

The Coopers Kits are all bittered to about the bittering of a lager, so I would do the hop tea by adding water at 65C and leaving it to cool. I use a Cafetiere thing for making coffee and it takes a while to cool down. Other than that, good luck! All will be well whichever way you do it, but...

As the AIO is "hot-side" in the sense that you are going to boil / sterilise everything that comes into contact with the next brew wort, such cleaning the equipment as per manufacturer's recommendation should be sufficient. A second "deep-clean sounds like pointless busy-work to me.

No issues, here, most on this Forum, me especially, need no booze to talk nonsense. What you might consider is making a very basic Saison - just base malt really, with just enough hops to bitter to be noticeable, then add all the rest of the Mead, Should be good to go in less than 8 weeks.

The most recent grain bag I got (WHS) seems to be a rather fine crush and both the mash and sparge were a bit problematic. Should have used rice hulls, but being wise after the event rather seems to define human existence. Anyway, today's brew was a Saison, with a very straightforward grain...

One of the few useful things I picked up from reading Mathematics at Peterhouse, in the late 1970's- "It is usually fairly straightforward to prove something that is true and much more difficult to prove that which is false. Usually proving something that is false requires far more effort and...

d OK, so here is my contribution to this thread. The 3 women I live with have just about forgiven etc. 21st Jan this year I am making a US Stout, fair sized grain bill, maybe 6kg, 8% Black, 8% crystal rest base malt. I had got into the practice of not much bothering with the silicon thingys on...

Another who says just brew it. Make a stout and then if it is a bit meh, you can chill it and drink it with supermarket cider. "Don't waste foodstuffs for nothing" is my advice. You may not have to live too much longer to remember fondly the good old days when it was even possible to make beer...

Yep, whatever works for you, works.

I have used a 20 + 15m boil for what seems like ages and seen no drop off of quality in my peasant style, low hop beers. English and Belgians mainly.

"...and brew mostly high strength beers (imperial stouts mostly but a few IPAs - all over 10%" My suggestion is a bit out of the box, but, if you do a normal strength beer at ~ 5% and then re-use the yeast (I put the trub into 4 x 250ml lemonade bottles and put them in the fridge). The yeast...

I always did 60m boils, until a couple of years ago, when I switched to a 20 + 15 mins approach, with bittering hops at First Wort (when the malt pipe is first raised) and the second addition at the same time as the flavor hops and the clearing tab. BTW, I gave up ages ago on the fashionable...