Zero Minute and DME

[Piperbrew]

Well finally received my first steps in all grain and have a boil in the bag kit that arrived today. having learnt a truck full of info of the guys on here I most likely could have gone straight onto all brew as feel confident.

I also bought quite a lot of light DME , wishing I hadn't now but I suppose that can still be used in my all grain recipes but I will have to calculate a reduction in crushed malt I guess, that correct?

I also received my wort tub today in the form of a 42 ltr cooler. Just been testing it and without a pre-warm I put hot water into it at 39c and it fell o 36c after 1 hr. Second run I took it up to 46 c and it fell to 43 after 1 hr. Both out these tests were with it not properly pre heated, only a 1/4 full and placed into a very cold area. I am guessing that with a decent pre heat and when I brew in a warm area it should only drop a degree or two so pretty glad on my choice of cooler.

Finally , as per my thread, the kit I has says some of the hops should be added for zero minutes, what would that actually mean please?

 

[terrym]

I also bought quite a lot of light DME , wishing I hadn't now but I suppose that can still be used in my all grain recipes but I will have to calculate a reduction in crushed malt I guess, that correct?

Finally , as per my thread, the kit I has says some of the hops should be added for zero minutes, what would that actually mean please?

1kg pale malt is about 0.65kg DME.
The zero minute hop addition is all about adding hop flavour and aroma to your beer, but not bitterness. However the longer you take to cool the beer post boil the more likely you are to extract a little more bitterness.

 

[Fil]

hop additions are timed from the end of the brew, so Zero minute hops go in when the heat is turned off. also known as flame out hops.

there is some debate as to if letting the brew chill to circa 80C before adding flame out hops gets better results. and you will want to let the flame out hops steep for at least 20 minutes before you start to chill.

Post chill let the brew stand for a further 20-30 minutes to let the hops fall out with some of the break material, this will act as a prefilter for the remainder of the break material (protien deposits from the hot and cold breaks) and should stop hop filters from clogging

As for the 3c temp drop, a 'thick' mash will hold temps better and also when full with have a much higher thermal mass ..
however the lid is an empty void that can easily be filled to improve performance and if fitting with a tap pulling the inner skin is easy and the insulation of cheap cold boxes tends to be thin slabs of loose polystyrene which can easily be upgraded with a mylar (£shop space blanket) or even tin foil wrap..

 

[Cwrw666]

1kg pale malt is about 0.65kg DME.
The zero minute hop addition is all about adding hop flavour and aroma to your beer, but not bitterness. However the longer you take to cool the beer post boil the more likely you are to extract a little more bitterness.

That's true. After switch-off I add my 0mins additions and then leave it to settle for half an hour before draining into the FV (still hot). My brews always seem to come out more bitter than I'd expect.

 

[chub1]

Use the calculator available on here-top of page.Easy to use.
I do a mix of a/g biab brews and partial mash's using both/either spray malt and h and b liquid malt and have produced some nice beers with partial mashing.:thumb:

 

[Piperbrew]

Thanks for the replies gents. I will be seeing if I can improve the lid as when I touched the cooler that is where the heat was felt.

 

[GerritT]

Thanks for the replies gents. I will be seeing if I can improve the lid as when I touched the cooler that is where the heat was felt.

Bubble wrap.

 

[Piperbrew]

Bubble wrap.

I have a bubble wrap/ foil that I used for an insulation job but I also noticed the lid has a couple of moulding holes so I will drill them and in a few other places and spray PU Foam inside, low expansion stuff too.

 

[GerritT]

I have a bubble wrap/ foil that I used for an insulation job but I also noticed the lid has a couple of moulding holes so I will drill them and in a few other places and spray PU Foam inside, low expansion stuff too.

Ought to work. Be careful with the PU foam though. Heard things about vapours and stuff.

 

[Duxuk]

I would definitely recommend cooling the wort to 80C before adding flameout/ 0 min hops. I leave them for 30 minutes after cooling to 80C then cool to pitching temp. If I add at 100C it increases bitterness in an unpredictable way, depending on the hop being used.

 

[Piperbrew]

I would definitely recommend cooling the wort to 80C before adding flameout/ 0 min hops. I leave them for 30 minutes after cooling to 80C then cool to pitching temp. If I add at 100C it increases bitterness in an unpredictable way, depending on the hop being used.

Chorley lad eh!...used to drink there years ago, Swan with Two Necks ??....when I was 19 in my Miami Vice gear lol.....

My family is Bromley Cross, I move away years ago, don't get back up North much now

 

[Duxuk]

Chorley lad eh!...used to drink there years ago, Swan with Two Necks ??....when I was 19 in my Miami Vice gear lol.....

My family is Bromley Cross, I move away years ago, don't get back up North much now

Swan with 2 necks closed a good few years ago but we do now have about NINE new micro pubs. My favourite is the Bob Inn, a market stall in the permanent market. It was so popular he's had to take a second stall as a lounge bar.:)

 

[Piperbrew]

Swan with 2 necks closed a good few years ago but we do now have about NINE new micro pubs. My favourite is the Bob Inn, a market stall in the permanent market. It was so popular he's had to take a second stall as a lounge bar.:)

I might have to visit when I am brave enough to go back up North. Sadly I tend not to as get more depressed each time I go. Bolton where I was from has really gone down the pan, businesses closing at a shocking rate.....lots of pubs now but you would frequent them unless you were in police riot gear!