RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
R u sure!
R u sure!
Just for interest I've just mashed in and started recirculating for a 65º mash (using my diy HERMS).
I think I can make a stab at that?Why is the yellow line (kettle) so high and what is it measuring?
The exit might be the best place if attempting to step up the temperature (exit temperature would be best at controlling the temperature), but the entry temperature would be best to confirm temperature has stabilised (entry temperature would be best for monitoring the temperature). Taking the temperature direct from the stodgy mash is likely to be somewhat random.
Yes I have had some time away from brewing but got the bug again now, I have not been able to locate that old thread to check what was decided, though I guess I haven't spent sufficient time searching.I remember when you started this project (last year). I think I'm being consistent with my response now as back then?
If you checkout TETBs brewday thread and his latest post (#202) you can see his HERMS set up (that I’ve copied). Right at the back you’ll see a “kettle”. That is used to heat the water circulating in the counterflow heat exchange. The reheated wort temperature is taken as it returns to the mash tun (wortometer).Why is the yellow line (kettle) so high and what is it measuring?
If you checkout TETBs brewday thread and his latest post (#202)
Yes @Buffers brewery described it correctly: the kettle temp is the temperature of the water entering the jacket of the counterflow...Why is the yellow line (kettle) so high and what is it measuring?
It just so happens ...I have not been able to locate that old thread to check what was decided, though I guess I haven't spent sufficient time searching.
Thank you :)It just so happens
It's not essential but it makes it react faster to changes in temp and can also help stop it falling out accidentallyIf the PID thermostat is placed inside a thermowell I seem to recall that you need some sort of thermal grease to make it work efficiently, is that correct?
This is the sort of stuff to use
Does that stuff not dry up and stick? Could make removing the probe a bit tricky if so.It's not essential but it makes it react faster to changes in temp and can also help stop it falling out accidentally
This is the sort of stuff to use - you don't need to use much
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HY-510-25g-Thermal-Paste-Heatsink-Conductivity-510-25g/dp/B07NRG8KJK
View attachment 86491
thermal pastes like that are normally used for CPU coolers where you want to really maximise the heat transfer. For just having a temperature probe, I'm sure any grease/paste will be just as quick (I have just dribbled water into mine as it's more conductive than air) but a cheap poor man's solution is to get any powdered metal (aluminium) and mix it into vaseline or any other grease you haveIt's not essential but it makes it react faster to changes in temp and can also help stop it falling out accidentally
This is the sort of stuff to use - you don't need to use much
Amazon.co.uk
View attachment 86491
from using the ones designed for CPU cooling etc, no, they don't dry up much, even over many years. Easy to clean with tissue and a bit of solvent.Does that stuff not dry up and stick? Could make removing the probe a bit tricky if so.
Thanks. Always wondered if people "cemented" on their CPU to their motherboard and therefore married them together forever.from using the ones designed for CPU cooling etc, no, they don't dry up much, even over many years. Easy to clean with tissue and a bit of solvent.
Heh I have loads of old tubes of heatsink paste in my toolbox, but no powdered aluminium!thermal pastes like that are normally used for CPU coolers where you want to really maximise the heat transfer. For just having a temperature probe, I'm sure any grease/paste will be just as quick (I have just dribbled water into mine as it's more conductive than air) but a cheap poor man's solution is to get any powdered metal (aluminium) and mix it into vaseline or any other grease you have
I used to have a half pound bag of it from the days where I was 'experimenting' with how you could light a campfire with thermite. Long since got 'disposed' of (safely)Heh I have loads of old tubes of heatsink paste in my toolbox, but no powdered aluminium!
As long as they are thermally conductive, I'm sure it would.For guitars, we make nut sauce*. Grind a lead pencil into vaseline and smear it in the nut groove for the string to move around in easily.
Would any kind of metal filings work?
*heh
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