What causes all this trub

[Rodcx500z]

 

[Clint]

Kit or grain?
Grain...break transfer from kettle?

 

[Slid]

Fine grain crush.

 

[Rodcx500z]

Kit or grain?
Grain...break transfer from kettle?

All grain brew clint

 

[Rodcx500z]

Beer is ok so I take it it's normal

 

[MyQul]

Do you do BIAB and how many litres is your brew? Lower brew lengths seem to have move trub percentage wise I've found. If you no-chill I have a way to minimise the trub so it's vitually nil, just about a cm of yeast in the bottom of the FV

 

[Gerryjo]

Do you do BIAB and how many litres is your brew? Lower brew lengths seem to have move trub percentage wise I've found. If you no-chill I have a way to minimise the trub so it's vitually nil, just about a cm of yeast in the bottom of the FV

Please do tell...

 

[chrisb8]

As @Clint says it could be a lot of material from the kettle. There seems to be varied opinions on the benefits of reducing the amount of kettle trub carried over to the fermenter (depending on your view on the findings of brulosophy - have a look if you haven't already, the trials there make interesting reading regardless). The method I described in one of your recent threads as an alternative to the bazooka leaves almost all of the kettle trub behind which I prefer

 

[MyQul]

Please do tell...

If you'd just like to purchase my ebook, 'How to reduce trub and influence people' you be able to find out...

 

[The Baron]

That free copy you gave me MyQul changed my life thank you

 

[Davvy]

Being a relitive newbie to all grain I have thought about what gives you more or less trub....
Your picture looks very similar to what I get with BIAB. So, for me when I got it, I put it down to fine material not filtered out from the kettle from your malt & hops.

 

[MyQul]

Please do tell...

Ok, seriously, what I do is this:

I get two 5L (I only make 10L batches so only need two, obviously you'll need more if you make longer brew lengths.) FV's. Once my boil is switched off I take a 5l FV, put a sieve on top of it to filter out the hops, and jug 5L of wort into it. Then do the second one. I then cover the 5L FV's with cling film held on with an elastic band. I then leave the FV's to cool overnight. Dont be alarmed by the cling film first going really convex as the steam pushes the cling film up into a big dome. Then goes really concave as the wort cools contract and sucks the cling film towards it. It's never popped and I've done this on almost every brew I've made

What then happens overnight is all the heavy trub sinks to the bottom of the 5L FV's The following day I take my nicely sanitised 10L FV and decant/pour the wort from the 5L FV's into the 10L FV making sure I stop pouring when I see the trub begin to get to the edge of the 5L FV. I also usually pour from a height to similtaneously aerate the wort. Dont be deceived by the cloudyness created by protofloc. Pour this in too as it doesnt cause any trub in the bottom of the 10LF. I usually find I have a very clear layer of wort, followed by some cloudy wort followed by trubby wort.

I then pitch the yeast. After fermentation, you'll find you have about 1cm of trub which is almost all yeast. The above tech is really good for harvesting yeast from the bottom of the FV as you just need to pour everything into a jar after you've racked the beer off the top of the yeast.

 

[Gerryjo]

Ok, seriously, what I do is this:

I get two 5L (I only make 10L batches so only need two, obviously you'll need more if you make longer brew lengths.) FV's. Once my boil is switched off I take a 5l FV, put a sieve on top of it to filter out the hops, and jug 5L of wort into it. Then do the second one. I then cover the 5L FV's with cling film held on with an elastic band. I then leave the FV's to cool overnight. Dont be alarmed by the cling film first going really convex as the steam pushes the cling film up into a big dome. Then goes really concave as the wort cools contract and sucks the cling film towards it. It's never popped and I've done this on almost every brew I've made

What then happens overnight is all the heavy trub sinks to the bottom of the 5L FV's The following day I take my nicely sanitised 10L FV and decant/pour the wort from the 5L FV's into the 10L FV making sure I stop pouring when I see the trub begin to get to the edge of the 5L FV. I also usually pour from a height to similtaneously aerate the wort. Dont be deceived by the cloudyness created by protofloc. Pour this in too as it doesnt cause any trub in the bottom of the 10LF. I usually find I have a very clear layer of wort, followed by some cloudy wort followed by trubby wort.

I then pitch the yeast. After fermentation, you'll find you have about 1cm of trub which is almost all yeast. The above tech is really good for harvesting yeast from the bottom of the FV as you just need to pour everything into a jar after you've racked the beer off the top of the yeast.

Interesting process and not a lot involved. I must give it a try next time I'm brewing. :hat:

 

[Clint]

I chill the wort. Then leave it settle,clean up while you do and prep your fv. When about 30 minutes or so had passed I position the fv with pipe from the kettle and gently crack the tap to just start a slight trickle of wort. As the flow starts it will eventually slow as the trub is drawn to the bazooka...open the tap just a little more to resume flow. I monitor this throughout transfer. The trub eventually settles over and around the bazooka with the clear wort punching a few holes in it. I drain to tap level and stop when the trub bed starts moving. Using this method I'm getting around a cm or less into the fv.

 

[chrisb8]

This is my method - I don't bother with the bazooka because I find it just clogs. Instead I just drain the lot out of the tap and filter it through a piece of sanitised net curtain draped over a sanitised colander which is placed over the fv. This filters out all of the kettle trub and hop crud leaving a nice clear wort and aerates in the process

 

[Gerryjo]

If you'd just like to purchase my ebook, 'How to reduce trub and influence people' you be able to find out...

I take you watch YouTube then

 

[Rodcx500z]

Yeah biab, some good ideas there guys, in that fv in the photo there must be at least 4 or 5l of ale that will be lost it's going in pb in the morning, ? can I harvest some of it for later use, sorry for late reply I have been watching my beloved Liverpool

 

[matt76]

I wouldn't sweat it @Rodcx500z , most of my FV's look like that - initially the trub level looks pretty high but it generally settles down after a day or two around the 1L mark.

My process is essentially BIAB but I do roughly 11.5L batches - initially that might seem a weird volume but once you allow for trub losses I generally package 10L (20 x 500ml bottles).

Not much I can add to what's already been said. I sometimes use a very fine weave nylon grain bag to sieve out more of the crud when I pour from the kettle to the FV. That helps reduce the trub a bit, but it's so fine it's prone to clogging up with hop and grain gunk!

But I do suffer from chill haze, penalty note helped by transferring lots of crud to the FV - the beer tastes great but it's an ongoing nuisance. As others have said already, I probably need to leave the crud to settle out in the kettle for a few hours and then just syphon the crystal clear wort over to the FV - but I'm usually too impatient/lazy to wait after chilling!

 

[Rodcx500z]

Hi Matt, the brew I did on Thursday I gave it a bit of a swirl with a sanitised paddle while the chiller was doing it's thing then I left it like Clint suggested 30 mins while I prepared the fv, much better hence the clear wort in the trial jar, the one with all the trub got put into a pb this morning I got roughly 17l instead of 19 so no big deal all part of the learning curve, just like to say thank you guys for advice and suggestions and happy brewing

 

[BeerCat]

Get some nylon bags for your hops. That will help and a decent cold break.