bomberns127 said:
hardly anybody treats the water they use, if they do they dont post it
What you mean like
This post Where not only do I say what I am adding . . . I actually explain the reasons for it
bomberns127 said:
i know getting water reports and acting on them is confusing unless you are a biochemist of some sorts, but since its the major component in what we all do can someone give a rough guide in laymans terms as to the best way to tackle it whether it be kit, extract or AG?
I think there are a couple of flaws.
Firstly the accuracy of any water report you get from a water company is questionable, plus it often leaves things out, and hides the
single most important brewing criteria (Alkalinity) behind other measurements, if it includes it at all.
Secondly the water source your water comes from can change from day to day, and in my case when it does there is a massive difference in the water make-up between reservoir and borehole . . .if you don't take that into account any water treatment you do is more akin to witchcraft than science
Thirdly, A lot of the authors don't really understand the science involved in water chemistry, Dave Line, Graham Wheeler, John Palmer, Greg Noonan et al all fall into this trap and make water treatment much more complex than it needs to be. Plus they all seem to imply that you need to match the water profile for the beer you are brewing (Murphys of Nottingham do this as well) . . . but fail to take into account the water you may be starting with (Murphys offer a water analysis service - but that doesn't take into account that tomorrow you water may come from a different source) . . . and present a "One Size Fits All" approach . . .Which is fine if you want a consistent level of mediocrity . . .but if you really want to lift you beer above the average then you really have to make an attempt to understand the logic and reasons behind water treatment (Which I have posted on here ad nauseam).
My water treatment approach is as follows
On the day of brewing measure the alkalinity (bicarbonate ions concentration), and the calcium ion level of the liquor you are going to brew with. (Salifert sell kits to do this which are cheap and simple to use)
Using an appropriate acid (hydrochloric, sulphuric or Carbonate reducing solution from Murphy's, a blend of hydrochloric and sulphuric acids), adjust the alkalinity down to 30ppm for pale beers . . . . and up to 125ppm for dark beers. For dark beers I may need to add sodium bicarbonate to
raise the alkalinity as my water is 'normally' low in bicarbonate. Bicarbonate is the thing that prevents the mash pH falling to the right range, so reducing it to a low level for the beer style you are brewing is important.
Increase the calcium level to at least 150ppm (calcium is important in getting the mash pH in the right range, along with hot break formation, yeast fermentation and flocculation etc). The salt you use for this (or blends of salts) depends again on the style you are brewing. For hoppy beers you need to think about raising sulphate so would look at calcium sulphate (and possibly using sulphuric acid to reduce the alkalinity), for malty beers you need to look at increasing chloride so would consider using calcium chloride (along with hydrochloric acid for alkalinity reduction). . . . You might need to consider a blend of the two salts as not only is the actual level of the sulphate and chloride ions important . . . the ratio between them is as well.
Finally I add an extra 5ppm of magnesium in the form of magnesium sulphate . . . which again alters the sulphate levels but as it ins in the order of 1.5g in 100L of liquor the level is pretty low.
Sounds complex?? probably but it follows these three simple rules
1) reduce the alkalinity to a level appropriate for the beer style being brewed
2) adjust the calcium level to a minimum of 150ppm
3) adjust the levels of sulphate and chloride depending on the style of beer being brewed.
Water treatment does not make a massive difference to the quality of beer being brewed, indeed there are far more important things that affect beer quality in a major way (yeast quality and fermentation temperature control for example) . . . but once you have cracked the brewing process and are making consistently good beer, then water treatment will allow you to make good beers 'shine'.
Water treatment is only really applicable to all grain brewing, while some of it does apply to extract brewing (sulphate/chloride levels and ratios for example), and kit brewing is best done with low mineral content water as all the minerals used for mashing and boiling have been concentrated into the extract.