Water parameters

[Heagney]

so I’ve got the water parameters from the water company but I’m having trouble finding the correct figures, can anyone help? Tried to attach screen shots of the report but the files are too large. All the reports contains same info, sample below

https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/~/m...ater 201501 Mannofield West Calendar Year.pdf

 

[Ghillie]

so I’ve got the water parameters from the water company but I’m having trouble finding the correct figures, can anyone help? Tried to attach screen shots of the report but the files are too large. All the reports contains same info, sample below

https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/~/media/water quality/Data/89/201606/Water 201501 Mannofield West Calendar Year.pdf

A lot of the info is there, but you also need this for Ca, Mg and hardness:

https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/-/m...Water-Quality/WaterHardnessData2017.pdf?la=en

Calcium (mgCa/l): 10.6
Magnesium (mgMg/l): 1.55

Hardness (CaCO3): 32.82

Looks like ideal lager water to me from a quick glance!

Anything else you're missing or not quite understanding?

 

[Heagney]

The report I linked was for Aberdeen, mine will be different. I’ve compared your figures to the report and I’m still clueless where you’ve picked them from?! Obviously didn’t pay enough attention in Chemistry.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated

 

[Heagney]

Ahh I see!! Look at the correct report and you get the correct answers...cheers buddy!

 

[Heagney]

Ca = 14
Mg = 2
Na = 5
Cl = 6
SO4 = 19
CaCO3 = 45
pH = 7.37

Is this water more suited to lager?

 

[Ghillie]

Is this water more suited to lager?

It is perfectly suited to lager, but more importantly it can be suited to everything with a just a few additions.

You have near perfect water; see it like a perfect blank canvas to build on.

What's more is that because the values are low, it means you can build them up with mineral additions, to virtually any profile you like. Most guys struggle because they have high values for X, Y and Z - and when those parameters are high, you can't reduce them. Hence why folk spend hundreds of pounds on RO systems or have to go and buy 30L of bottled water to brew with each time. It's like putting salt in a pan of soup, you can always add more to taste - but put too much in and you're humped!

I recommend this calculator for water additions, it's very simple to understand and accurate unlike some others I've used:

http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/

The main things to focus on IMO are Sulphate to Chloride ratios and mash pH. That's all I really alter and it seems to work well enough.

 

[Heagney]

Perfect! My Mrs is always telling me you can always add but not take away haha
I’m probably well off worrying about messing too much with my water but good to have the info. Should probably concentrate on the fundamentals of brewing first

 

[Ghillie]

I’m probably well off worrying about messing too much with my water but good to have the info. Should probably concentrate on the fundamentals of brewing first

Some would argue water is the most important!

But I agree, water is probably in the last 1% of your brewing worries. Good to read up on these things though, as when the time comes to start manipulating your ground water, you'll already have a rough understanding of what's what.

What are you brewing with/on?

 

[Heagney]

Exactly, I know it is very important I was just hoping mine was good enough to start with and try to understand different malts, hope, time of hoping etc etc. Feel like my brains about to explode already!

So probably more like a BIAB. I got a Brooklyn Brewdog IPA starter kit. Looking to buy a 12l brew pot so I can do 2x 1 gallon fermenters and tinker between the 2 so I can compare my small changes.

First brew been bottles and ready to go next Friday. Already know I’ve made a few mistakes

 

[Ghillie]

Exactly, I know it is very important I was just hoping mine was good enough to start with and try to understand different malts, hope, time of hoping etc etc. Feel like my brains about to explode already!

So probably more like a BIAB. I got a Brooklyn Brewdog IPA starter kit. Looking to buy a 12l brew pot so I can do 2x 1 gallon fermenters and tinker between the 2 so I can compare my small changes.

First brew been bottles and ready to go next Friday. Already know I’ve made a few mistakes

Here's some advice from another guy who is quite new to the hobby as well. You can take it or leave it, but you might find my shortcomings of interest

I bought a 30L pot with a tap, false bottom, filter, etc for BIAB on the kitchen cooker. I couldn't see why this would be an issue. Only lasted two brews before selling it all because the cooker couldn't handle heating that much water. Thought about getting an induction plate for the 30L pot, only to realise the stainless wasn't compatible. If I had thought it through at the start, I would have got a 3kW induction plate and the right ferrous pot to work with it. If not that, a 30-40L Buffalo boiler.

Now I have an eBIAB type set up which I'm happy with and wouldn't change it, but that doesn't take away from the fact that I lost a good bit of money on the brand new equipment I bought to start just to resell it within the month.

It's up to you what you start with, but you can't go wrong with something like this:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=171889496211

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=391724864636

The boiler is just for reference by the way, used ones come up regularly on GumTree and eBay for ~£30 - £60. An upturned colander in the bottom of the boiler will keep the bag of grain from burning on the element.

If after buying that you decide to upgrade your equipment or whatever, you can use the boiler for heating sparge water or sell it for the same as you bought it. They hold their value really well. Keep checking in on GumTree for used brewing gear, you have no idea how many folk get brewing kits for birthdays and Xmas only to make one disgusting batch of home brew and give up. Good news for everyone else, is that they basically give it away!

Just my tuppence worth

 

[Heagney]

Thanks again buddy, I was looking at them but wasn’t sure how quickly they boil. Think I’d change the rap etc but something to ponder for the future!

 

[Ghillie]

Thanks again buddy, I was looking at them but wasn’t sure how quickly they boil.

Pretty quickly as they have a main 3kW element I think; 20L has 2.6kW. You'd get 30L to the boil in ~30 minutes. But because you're going from mash ~66C or mash-out at 76C. You're looking at about 15 minutes to a boil and 20 minutes to mash temp.

The thermostat needs bypassed to maintain a boil, but this is often as simple as removing the thermostat probe from the bottom of the kettle, it just unclips.

Think I’d change the rap etc but something to ponder for the future!

Definitely, something like this again is affordable:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=292799835538