Use of semi-drinkable tapwater & exposure to sunlight

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

scheelings

Active Member
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Hi, I have a couple of questions before I get started with my first batch in 10 years.

1) The water where I'm living is semi-drinkable. You're unlikely to get sick from it unless you have a very sensitive stomach - most people boil it before consumption - however, boiling 30 litres of water is impracticable.

So - will whatever bacteria is within the water supply compete with the yeast - or will the principles of why beer was invented in the first place come into play and will I essentially create a drinkable brew through fermentation?

(I can buy water relatively cheaply - however its an effort to buy and transport that volume of water!)

2) Sunlight

Firstly - I'm not using Hops. Is it ok to ferment in the presence of sunlight - and is it ok to leave my bottles for 3 months with the brew inside also in the presence of sunlight whilst they mature? Regardless - everything will both fermenting and maturing between mid 20's and low 30s (degrees C)

regards,

Jon
 
If there is no way you can boil it (you could add a tesco kettle element to a spare fermenting bucket for a tenner which would do the job) I would probably treat it with a couple of campden tablets and let it stand for half an hour, then use it.

I'd also be tempted to make a yeast starter using some bottled water and some dry malt extract a week before you want to brew (plenty of how-to's on here), so you have a really healthy amount of yeast when it's time to get started.

Of course, you could just use bottled water. Most supermarkets have it for £1 for 5 litres (which have a good carrying handle), so a normal kit brew is only going to cost you a fiver extra for peace of mind... of course, if you don't have a car (and the supermarket near you won't deliver) this could be a pain.

Secondly, most beer kits will have used hops somewhere - if you are using brown bottles and it isn't in direct sunlight, you should be ok.

If you are using clear/green bottles, you might want to wrap them in something light proof. Someone on here uses black table napkins, and tin foil would also work well.

EDIT - just seen your temperatures. That's too high. You want to aim for around 18-20° - more than about 22 and you run the risk of fusel alcohols which will give you a nasty hangover and some odd tastes.
 
I think the reason why beer was safer to drink than water was because the water was boiled as part of the process. Although alcohol will kill bacteria I'm not sure there's enough in beer to make it safe to drink if the water is infected to start with. Campden tables do sound like a good solution.
 
What are you planning to brew?

Whereabouts are you?

Simon.
 
Sorry guys, I just realised that I left lots of important information out - such as:

1) I am not using a kit and don't have malt - I'm using raw sugar - what nutrients could I use in lieu of malts if I was to make a 'starter'
2) I'm making ginger beer and using lots of raw young ginger, oranges rind, currants etc
3) The yeast is a champagne yeast which is rated for high temperatures (the kind of temperature I will be brewing in)


fbsf said:
If there is no way you can boil it (you could add a tesco kettle element to a spare fermenting bucket for a tenner which would do the job) I would probably treat it with a couple of campden tablets and let it stand for half an hour, then use it.

I'd also be tempted to make a yeast starter using some bottled water and some dry malt extract a week before you want to brew (plenty of how-to's on here), so you have a really healthy amount of yeast when it's time to get started.

Of course, you could just use bottled water. Most supermarkets have it for £1 for 5 litres (which have a good carrying handle), so a normal kit brew is only going to cost you a fiver extra for peace of mind... of course, if you don't have a car (and the supermarket near you won't deliver) this could be a pain.

Secondly, most beer kits will have used hops somewhere - if you are using brown bottles and it isn't in direct sunlight, you should be ok.

If you are using clear/green bottles, you might want to wrap them in something light proof. Someone on here uses black table napkins, and tin foil would also work well.

EDIT - just seen your temperatures. That's too high. You want to aim for around 18-20° - more than about 22 and you run the risk of fusel alcohols which will give you a nasty hangover and some odd tastes.
 
Your tapwater may not taste nice, but it's unlikely to have appreciable levels of bacteria. To deal with chlorine/chloramine, you could Campden it. Boiling sorts excess mineral content as well.
But bottled water is pretty cheap now.
 
Right, that makes a bit more sense now.

My advice re the water still stands, but don't worry about keeping the bottles in the dark if it's ginger beer - just out of direct sunlight should be fine.

You can make a yeast starter using water and sugar (and a normal yeast nutrient powder) if you are brewing ginger beer - plenty of guides on here. You only need to worry about using dry malt if you are making the starter for a malt-based beer, as the yeast will forget how to metabolise malt if started with sugar. However, if you pitch a decent amount of dry yeast, then this step isn't strictly necessary anyway.

Also, I would still suggest trying to keep the temp down to the low 20s if possible (even if it's only for the first couple of days when the yeast multiplies) to avoid fusels which can increase the likelihood and intensity of hangovers. After that it isn't so critical.
 
fbsf said:
Also, I would still suggest trying to keep the temp down to the low 20s if possible (even if it's only for the first couple of days when the yeast multiplies) to avoid fusels which can increase the likelihood and intensity of hangovers. After that it isn't so critical.

Very difficult without getting a cooling sleeve. The yeast I have bought is rated for high temperatures - it says:

Pasteur Red
A strain of Saccharomyces bayanus from a French wine yeast. Good tolerance to ethanol. Very low producer of foam, urea and fusel oils. Recommended for reds, whites and especially champagne. Ferment at 7-35C.

I also have:

Pasteur Champagne
A strain of Saccharomyces bayanus. A strong fermenter with good ethanol tolerance. Recommended for all white wines and some reds. Ferment at 15-30C.

regards,

Jon
 
Thanks for all your help. Remember though I think the number of countries in which the tap water is drinkable is a fraction of those in which it isn't!

fbsf said:
They seem to be suited ok - I wouldn't worry unduly if you can't keep the temp down, it would just be ideal if you could. Far more important with ale yeasts than the wine yeasts you have.
 
rpt said:
Are you able to put your location in your profile so we know where you are from?

It's clear to me where this forum stands in regards to illegal activities based on references to d******n. Keep in mind that its not legal in all countries to ferment.

I'm between Singapore and Thailand :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top