US05 yeast

[Pope]

Can I hijack this thread with a yeast related query.

For my next brew I'm going to try Clibit's Have a go simple AG see thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=51779.

I was planning to follow the recipe for a 5 litre batch, using Chinook for the hops and US-05 for the yeast, using this packet http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Safale_US-05_Beer_Yeast.html.

Firstly, is this yeast suitable for this ale?

Secondly, should I use the whole packet, or less because it's only a small batch?

 

[Covrich]

Can I hijack this thread with a yeast related query.

For my next brew I'm going to try Clibit's Have a go simple AG see thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=51779.

I was planning to follow the recipe for a 5 litre batch, using Chinook for the hops and US-05 for the yeast, using this packet http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Safale_US-05_Beer_Yeast.html.

Firstly, is this yeast suitable for this ale?

Secondly, should I use the whole packet, or less because it's only a small batch?

Of course, the yeast is a neutral yeast giving a clean flavour and allowing the hops to shine through.. Many here suggest trying Mangrove Jack M44. I have never tried it but it seems to be a good suggestion.. US05 is a good solid option though, try it and see for yourself.

you will not need the whole packet. for a 5 liter batch just a quarter or a third should be okay and if you clip up the sachet and store in the fridge you can use the rest on something else.

 

[Pope]

Of course, the yeast is a neutral yeast giving a clean flavour and allowing the hops to shine through.. Many here suggest trying Mangrove Jack M44. I have never tried it but it seems to be a good suggestion.. US05 is a good solid option though, try it and see for yourself.

you will not need the whole packet. for a 5 liter batch just a quarter or a third should be okay and if you clip up the sachet and store in the fridge you can use the rest on something else.

Thanks Covrich...

 

[wfr42]

If you have a set of measuring spoons a teaspoon is about 3g /a quarter pack and what I used for my 5litre ag brews.

 

[MyQul]

wfr42 has it spot on. 3g is the right amout to use for 5L according to MrMalty, dependant on OG of course but anything < of 1.060 should be fine. The odd couple of times I've done 5L batches I used 3g. But I've got a jewellers scales so makes weighing out 3g easy

 

[JapanBrew]

Sorry, myqul, true respect, but no. I wouldn't go under 6 grams.... For ANY amount. I've talked to so many big Brewers. They say a percentage will die instantly they are introduced to a new environment. With that only , you'll calculate a similar number. But they are working with thousands of liters.
Use the whole pack. You will not notice the difference. We are talking n,th to the power with 100 barels. 11 grams is only in the billions of yeast cells. Pitch all. Then work on your technique.

 

[MyQul]

Sorry, myqul, true respect, but no. I wouldn't go under 6 grams.... For ANY amount. I've talked to so many big Brewers. They say a percentage will die instantly they are introduced to a new environment. With that only , you'll calculate a similar number. But they are working with thousands of liters.
Use the whole pack. You will not notice the difference. We are talking n,th to the power with 100 barels. 11 grams is only in the billions of yeast cells. Pitch all. Then work on your technique.

I haven't talked to any big brewers so take you at your word :thumb:
I'm just stating what I did when I first starter making AG (in small 5L batches). The advice I was given was to use a yeast calc. I was pointed in the direction of the popular MrMalty yeast (http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html). Putting the figures into the calc (for anything under 1.060 OG, which is what I would have made) gives 3g. It worked fine for me, but perhaps I got lucky

 

[JapanBrew]

Myqul, not just you, you have way more experience than. I've learned from you from this forum. But there is a limit on yeast cells.
Another side is to suggest that this question is simple. It isn't. But pitch the whole pack. As you learn and grow, and start teaching us what works for you, is when you know your style.

 

[wfr42]

I rehydrated 3g of yeast and both (all 4 djs really as I was doing "10L") batches turned out great. Needed a blow off tube with the 2nd batch, where I started rehydration during the mash (so at least 2 hours before pitching).

It meant I got 20 litres from the one pack of yeast and had back up yeast (for the first batch at least).

Each to their own, as long as you are happy with your beer it is a success.

 

[MyQul]

Here's what the wyeast site says about pitch rates and over pitching

http://www.wyeastlab.com/com-pitch-rates.cfm

Effect of Pitch Rate on Beer Flavor

Pitch rates, in addition to strain, temperature, and gravity, make a dramatic difference in the final flavor and aroma profile of any beer. The pitch rate will have a direct effect on the amount of cell growth during a fermentation. Cell growth decreases as pitch rates increase. Ester production is directly related to yeast growth as are most other flavor and aroma compounds.

A low pitch rate can lead to:

• Excess levels of diacetyl
• Increase in higher/fusel alcohol formation
• Increase in ester formation
• Increase in volatile sulfur compounds
• High terminal gravities
• Stuck fermentations
• Increased risk of infection

High pitch rates can lead to:

• Very low ester production
• Very fast fermentations
• Thin or lacking body/mouthfeel
• Autolysis (Yeasty flavors due to lysing of cells)

With some beer styles, where a complex ester profile is desirable (German Wheat) it can be beneficial to under pitch. Over pitching can often lead to a very clean beer lacking an ester profile (banana). This is a common problem with subsequent generations of Wyeast's Weihenstephan Weizen #3068. Conversely, beers that require a clean profile should be pitched an an increased rate.

 

[Hops_and_Dreams]

Just to throw another option into the mix - BRY-97. I have packet in my fridge. I've never used it before though. This is also another west coast clean strain. Anyone any experience with it they'd like to share?

I've used it in my Cascade smash. I'm a bit of a pleb when it comes to describing things, but it did a decent job and close enough to US-05 that I wouldn't know the difference. I guess you'd need a side by side test.

I've read that it can mute some hop flavour as it clears too well. Seems OK to me though.

Also read that it was a slow starter, but again no problem for me.

Got another pack in the fridge that I have no issues in using.

 

[MyQul]

Myqul, not just you, you have way more experience than. I've learned from you from this forum. But there is a limit on yeast cells.
Another side is to suggest that this question is simple. It isn't. But pitch the whole pack. As you learn and grow, and start teaching us what works for you, is when you know your style.

At the end of the day I agree with you. Pitching the whole pack will have little to any negative effect. After all people re-pitch onto whole yeast cakes, which is a massive over pitch, with no problems

 

[cheshirehomebrew]

Can I hijack this thread with a yeast related query.

For my next brew I'm going to try Clibit's Have a go simple AG see thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=51779.

I was planning to follow the recipe for a 5 litre batch, using Chinook for the hops and US-05 for the yeast, using this packet http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Safale_US-05_Beer_Yeast.html.

Firstly, is this yeast suitable for this ale?

Secondly, should I use the whole packet, or less because it's only a small batch?

Have just done an all grain BIAB using US-05 and chinook hops, its still fermenting but as i have no issues with 05 I wont be changing any time too, however if M44 is that good I may plump for it next time