Turning ferrous metal to non ferrous

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That or a little zip lock bag the ones that have jacket buttons and other stuff in them.
 
That or a little zip lock bag the ones that have jacket buttons and other stuff in them.
Hmm, not sure I'd trust one of those to be 100% airtight. I seen an experiment involving one of those, a mobile phone and a bucket of water. The phone didn't do so well.
 
Nosey, nosey, nosey.

Nah, I bought a strong magnet and some stir bars so I could attach a bag of hops to the underside of a keg lid during fermentation. Then when ready, remove the magnet and start the dry hoping process with having to open the keg. However, the stir bars are tiny and I worried they might not aid in holding the bag. I was correct. I would say they might normally work but I am brewing a NEIPA and the dry hop amount is 147g. The magnet came with a piece of metal already attached and I reckon it could do the job but I have no idea what sort of metal it is, so didn't risk it. But I wondered if coating it in wax would be an option.
I have just bought a strong magnet and stir bars to try the same thing with my upcoming neipa brew in a new fermzilla all-rounder but didn't realise that the lid of the all-rounder is not flat so not all of the stir bars are in contact asad. those PTFE coated magnets that @Buffers brewery suggested might do the trick but will just have to open the lid and Chuck the hops in for the brew this weekend
 
You don't have to attach them to the underside of the lid. If you have the room, you could attach them to the neck of the FV.
 
Nosey, nosey, nosey.

Nah, I bought a strong magnet and some stir bars so I could attach a bag of hops to the underside of a keg lid during fermentation. Then when ready, remove the magnet and start the dry hoping process with having to open the keg. However, the stir bars are tiny and I worried they might not aid in holding the bag. I was correct. I would say they might normally work but I am brewing a NEIPA and the dry hop amount is 147g. The magnet came with a piece of metal already attached and I reckon it could do the job but I have no idea what sort of metal it is, so didn't risk it. But I wondered if coating it in wax would be an option.

Depends on the wax, the time, and the temperature.

For a few years my job involved working with rural communities in Africa and Asia, helping them export fair-trade and organic foodstuffs to the EU. These were desparately poor people without modern equipment, and inputs, that were having to satisfy numerous government and other agencies that all health and hygiene standards were adhered to.

In Africa, wild honey gatherers could source steel drums ( previously used for inert petroleum jelly) but had no adeqate barrel lining to protect against the steel. We got around the problem by melting local beeswax, and coating the entire inner surfaces. These drums had to be transported by land across sub-Saharan Africa in a container, and then 2 weeks by sea. You can imagine the heat.

Anyway...it worked. Many times, for years. My advice is....do not use paraffin wax under ANY circumstances. It melts easily and WILL taint. Terminally.
Use proper beeswax.... it`s from hives that get warm, btw.... and make sure the temperature isn`t much above 30 for more than a couple of minutes. It will soften, but not melt. Any trace that DOES get in will only rise to the top ( it floats on sugary solutions) and bind with any scum..especially when the liquid cools.
 
Depends on the wax, the time, and the temperature.

For a few years my job involved working with rural communities in Africa and Asia, helping them export fair-trade and organic foodstuffs to the EU. These were desperately poor people without modern equipment, and inputs, that were having to satisfy numerous government and other agencies that all health and hygiene standards were adhered to.

In Africa, wild honey gatherers could source steel drums ( previously used for inert petroleum jelly) but had no adequate barrel lining to protect against the steel. We got around the problem by melting local beeswax, and coating the entire inner surfaces. These drums had to be transported by land across sub-Saharan Africa in a container, and then 2 weeks by sea. You can imagine the heat.

Anyway...it worked. Many times, for years. My advice is....do not use paraffin wax under ANY circumstances. It melts easily and WILL taint. Terminally.
Use proper beeswax.... it`s from hives that get warm, btw.... and make sure the temperature isn`t much above 30 for more than a couple of minutes. It will soften, but not melt. Any trace that DOES get in will only rise to the top ( it floats on sugary solutions) and bind with any scum - especially when the liquid cools.

That is a very interesting report. Thanks indeed for this information, on several levels.
 

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