tim taylor flavour
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welcome to the home brewing community then...... :clap:
don't know of any kits that folks have said are like TTL. I've done a few all grain versions and found them better.more to my taste. Hopefully some of the kit brewers can help you out more
don't know of any kits that folks have said are like TTL. I've done a few all grain versions and found them better.more to my taste. Hopefully some of the kit brewers can help you out more
no not complicated at all..soak grains drain off the wort and boil it then ferment it just like kit beers
However equipment required is more costly initially, expensive if bought off the shelf although DIY versions are quite easily made.
Have a read through the How to's or buy a book... Its the ultimate for home beer making IMHO. and the beers you make are far superior to kits or extract brewing.
However equipment required is more costly initially, expensive if bought off the shelf although DIY versions are quite easily made.
Have a read through the How to's or buy a book... Its the ultimate for home beer making IMHO. and the beers you make are far superior to kits or extract brewing.
Algernon
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If you do want to try all grain without too much expenditure try this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39236
I am brewing this way and it cost me about 50 quid for a far larger pot than i use atm (70L) but I can make bigger brews if I need/want to. I picked up a couple of squares of voile from the local C&H Fabrics for a couple of quid and that's that really. Materials per brew are now about 6 or 7 quid for malts and a couple of quid for hops. You can spend more if you like rare malts, strong beers or super hopped ones, but it does allow you to find a clone recipe for almost any commercial beer out there. I am confident there are TTLandlord clone recipes out there in huge numbers.
Best of luck with the new hobby :
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39236
I am brewing this way and it cost me about 50 quid for a far larger pot than i use atm (70L) but I can make bigger brews if I need/want to. I picked up a couple of squares of voile from the local C&H Fabrics for a couple of quid and that's that really. Materials per brew are now about 6 or 7 quid for malts and a couple of quid for hops. You can spend more if you like rare malts, strong beers or super hopped ones, but it does allow you to find a clone recipe for almost any commercial beer out there. I am confident there are TTLandlord clone recipes out there in huge numbers.
Best of luck with the new hobby :
Titus A Duxass
Regular.
Brew UK do a Tim Taylor extract kit/pack and it's bloody good.
Had my first pint of TTL for ages, a couple of weeks ago. The defining characteristic is the late hopped flavour. You could get the best kit you can and doctor it by adding hops. Not sure what hops Tim Taylors use but you could research that on the forum, then I'd bring the can contents to the boil in the biggest pan I had, and as much water as I dared, and put about half my bag of hops (EKG?) into the liquid when I turned the heat off. After about 20 mins I'd seive the pan contents into my sterilised FV and make it up to volume.
Let it cool to 20C overnight and pitch the yeast. After a week to 10 days when the fermentation has calmed down you chuck the rest of the hops in dry. After 14 days minimum, when fermentation has finished and it has cleared a bit you can bottle or keg. You need 14 days, not the 5 days or whatever they suggest on the kit. The results will be so much better. Time is your friend!
Try to keep it somewhere coolish whilst you are fermenting. Ideally you want it to ferment at 18-20C to avoid funky flavours.
Try the Malt Miller for the hops if you don't have a sourcce locally, by clicking the link at the top of the page.
I was sent a kit ale in the recent Beer Swap. It was very nice!
Let it cool to 20C overnight and pitch the yeast. After a week to 10 days when the fermentation has calmed down you chuck the rest of the hops in dry. After 14 days minimum, when fermentation has finished and it has cleared a bit you can bottle or keg. You need 14 days, not the 5 days or whatever they suggest on the kit. The results will be so much better. Time is your friend!
Try to keep it somewhere coolish whilst you are fermenting. Ideally you want it to ferment at 18-20C to avoid funky flavours.
Try the Malt Miller for the hops if you don't have a sourcce locally, by clicking the link at the top of the page.
I was sent a kit ale in the recent Beer Swap. It was very nice!
ian25w said:
This one is very close, it's Extract but 2 x tins of malt and a hop bag to boil up in a small pan, so fairly simple:
viewtopic.php?f=58&t=24357
In Graham Wheeler's book it has Goldings and Styrian Goldings as the hops.
I'd definitely advise reading Callumscots BIAB guide too
http://thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic ... 30&t=35233
BIAB really has no downsides, the equipment required is minimal and most importantly the quality is as good as you can make it as the method will not be a limiting factor.
The thing that swung it for me was an Aussie 3-way shoot out where in blind tasting the BIAB won. The winner was Bribie who is a member on these forums :thumb:
I think he also used the no-chill method so dispelled a few more urban myths too regarding quality against a traditional 3 vessel system.
I'd definitely advise reading Callumscots BIAB guide too
http://thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic ... 30&t=35233
BIAB really has no downsides, the equipment required is minimal and most importantly the quality is as good as you can make it as the method will not be a limiting factor.
The thing that swung it for me was an Aussie 3-way shoot out where in blind tasting the BIAB won. The winner was Bribie who is a member on these forums :thumb:
I think he also used the no-chill method so dispelled a few more urban myths too regarding quality against a traditional 3 vessel system.
I haven't chilled in my 10 ish BIABs. The disadvantage of no chill, apart from having to wait before yeast pitching, is that the heat may cause more alpha acid isomerisation. This is a complicated way to say that you may lose some of the fresh hoppy flavour. The way I have used to tackle this is to wait for the temp to drop before adding flameout hops and the use of dry hops after a week to 10 days, when the rapid fermentation has finished.
I don't see BIAB as a means to an end, but as an end in itself. Unless we come up on the premium bonds and I buy a big house with out buildings to make a proper brewery.
I don't see BIAB as a means to an end, but as an end in itself. Unless we come up on the premium bonds and I buy a big house with out buildings to make a proper brewery.
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