Tesco Ashbeck, how much added gypsum ??

[MmmmCitra]

I always use Ashbeck water for my beers, always light hoppy styles, and they always come out well but on another thread I was told I should be adding some gypsum.

Question is, what will this actually do to the taste of the beer and how much should I actually add, I make a 12lt BiaB, do I also add a little into the mash AND a little more into the boil ???

Of all the questions relating to homebrewing I think the water addition questions are the most complicated.

Thanks.........:thumb:

 

[Gerryjo]

Try checking out @strange-steve guide to water
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=64822

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[MmmmCitra]

I've certainly looked at that very well written post but it's still quite complicated and i'm hoping for a quick simple answer to my particular question regarding that bottled water and the 12lt quantity.........:smile:

 

[terrym]

Since it seems you want someone to do the calc for you, you need to post the typical analysis of your Ashbeck Water, before anyone can help, unless of course they already have a bottle ready to hand.

 

[MmmmCitra]

Aaaahh, good point, I was just hoping someone might know as I believe quite a few use the Ashbeck water.
I'm buying tonight so if I don't get any help before i'll post the analysis in due course.

 

[svenito]

Since it seems you want someone to do the calc for you, you need to post the typical analysis of your Ashbeck Water, before anyone can help, unless of course they already have a bottle ready to hand.

This will help then :) Always have it handy.

I'm no expert on the amounts to add, but you can add the salts at pretty much any stage. I just finished a podcast from Brulosophy where the results were noticeable even when added after fermentation. Personally I would add them to the mash or the strike water, latest to the boil.

 

[strange-steve]

I would probably add some calcium chloride as well as gypsum. A good starting point for a hoppy pale ale would be something like 0.2g/L of gypsum and 0.08g/L of calcium chloride. That's roughly equivalent to half a teaspoon of gypsum and an eighth of a teaspoon of calcium chloride per 10L of water.

 

[MmmmCitra]

I would probably add some calcium chloride as well as gypsum. A good starting point for a hoppy pale ale would be something like 0.2g/L of gypsum and 0.08g/L of calcium chloride. That's roughly equivalent to half a teaspoon of gypsum and an eighth of a teaspoon of calcium chloride per 10L of water.

Cheers SS, just what I needed to know, is that the whole lot to the mash or half and half with the boil ??

 

[strange-steve]

If you're doing full volume mash then it'll all go in the mash. Add the salts to the water before you begin heating to strike temperature, gypsum is more soluble at lower temperatures.

 

[Braufather]

I use ashbeck for all my brews apart from stouts. I also always add gypsum and calcium carb to hit mash ph too. Amounts depends on style and grainbill.

I found software to be unreliable so its been by trial and error. For hoppy IPAs also put extra gypsum in the boil. By mistake I once put in about 18g for 20 litres in the mash, which on paper should be far too much and it did undershoot target ph, however it also came out great so I tend to be quit heavy handed with it on hop forward ales now, just use some in the boil now instead of all in the mash.

 

[MmmmCitra]

Cheers Braufather, always nice to hear about someones experiences and their conclusions, really appreciate your reply :thumb:

 

[foxbat]

I brew pale ales and I use Ashbeck for everything and Ritchies lactic acid for pH reduction where needed. I have the following three profiles and mineral additions for 30 litres (divide by 30 and multiply by the number of litres in your brew to adjust):

Balanced:
Ca: 71, Mg: 13, Na: 9, SO4: 86, Cl: 92, HCO3: 25
Gypsum: 2g, Calcium Chloride: 5g, Epsom Salts: 3g

Hoppy:
Ca: 70, Mg: 13, Na: 9, SO4: 126, Cl: 61, HCO3: 25
Gypsum: 4g, Calcium Chloride: 3g, Epsom Salts: 3g

Extra hoppy:
Ca: 84, Mg: 13, Na: 9, SO4: 160, Cl: 60, HCO3: 25
Gypsum: 6g, Calcium Chloride: 3g, Epsom Salts: 3g

Ritchies lactic acid is 60% concentrated and you only need a few ml for even the palest ales. I use the Brunwater spreadsheet to calculate the amount required and I used to measure the pH but hardly bother any more since Brunwater seems to get it right every time.

 

[Honk]

Just posting so I can find svenetos photo with the ashbeck details, usually use my tap water but got a Helles planned which I may use ashbeck either in full or mixed with tap water when I'm in the mood for doing calculations.
Original post was right water chemistry does take some getting my head round but im slowly getting there.

 

[svenito]

I just did a salifert test on the ashbeck water and its dKH is 1.9 which gives a 33.82 ppm

If anyone is interested

 

[BrannBrew]

If you're doing full volume mash then it'll all go in the mash. Add the salts to the water before you begin heating to strike temperature, gypsum is more soluble at lower temperatures.

What if your doing like 11l mash then batch spargng until full volume is reached? Would you put 1/2 in strike water other half in wort as its heating to boil. Or would you still put all amounts in strike water

 

[svenito]

What if your doing like 11l mash then batch spargng until full volume is reached? Would you put 1/2 in strike water other half in wort as its heating to boil. Or would you still put all amounts in strike water

You can add it to either one, or both, as long as your total matches your target for the total volume of water. That's how I understand it. I've even seen people add their flavour salts in the kettle.

Bear in mind that adjusting mash water needs to take the grist into account, whereas the sparge doesn't. This not relevant for gyspum as it doesn't affect pH, but it's something to consider. The water calculator on Brewersfriend has options to treat sparge and mash water separately and gives you a summary for your mash (with grist) and the final wort.

 

[strange-steve]

What if your doing like 11l mash then batch spargng until full volume is reached? Would you put 1/2 in strike water other half in wort as its heating to boil. Or would you still put all amounts in strike water

I usually work out salt additions in g/L (see post #7 above) which means they are split proportionally between mash and sparge water.

You can add it to either one, or both, as long as your total matches your target for the total volume of water. That's how I understand it. I've even seen people add their flavour salts in the kettle.

Bear in mind that adjusting mash water needs to take the grist into account, whereas the sparge doesn't. This not relevant for gyspum as it doesn't affect pH, but it's something to consider. The water calculator on Brewersfriend has options to treat sparge and mash water separately and gives you a summary for your mash (with grist) and the final wort.

Gypsum and calcium chloride do have an impact on mash pH. Calcium reacts with malt phosphates to lower the pH. This is another way you can manipulate the mash pH according to the grain bill, although it's not as effective as alkalinity adjustment. For example, if you're concerned that the pH will be too low in a mash with lots of roasted grains or crystal malts, then you could hold back some of the salts and add them instead to the sparge water or boiler.

 

[svenito]

I usually work out salt additions in g/L (see post #7 above) which means they are split proportionally between mash and sparge water.


Gypsum and calcium chloride do have an impact on mash pH. Calcium reacts with malt phosphates to lower the pH. This is another way you can manipulate the mash pH according to the grain bill, although it's not as effective as alkalinity adjustment. For example, if you're concerned that the pH will be too low in a mash with lots of roasted grains or crystal malts, then you could hold back some of the salts and add them instead to the sparge water or boiler.

Thanks Steve for clarifying that, good to know for myself too