Temperature controller choice

[MikeW]

Hi guys, looking for advice as to what type of controller (STC100 or a 7016A) would be best to control the boil temperature.
When I check the data quoted on the Ebay sites, I get conflicting answers. Happy with a 10amp control, but need it to operate circa 100 deg. C.
Hoping to do this project on the cheap, so for the moment have ruled out an Inkbird.

Thanks.
Mike

 

[RoomWithABrew]

You are better to control boil by modulating the power input.
An STC is a thermostat really so it will be full power oops too hot turn off drop turn on again.
I don't know what a 7016 does.

 

[MikeW]

Thank you, this is something I had not considered. Could you recommend a unit, or is this what a Inkbird does.

 

[hoppyscotty]

I'm using a PID for my boil control. Works a treat. Alot of stuff out there saying you shouldn't use a PID for boil control and should use a power modulator, but a PID controls via modulating power but does it automatically via pulse width modulation rather than you setting the power manually. In any case most PID controllers have a 'manual' power modulation mode so can choose between both modes whichever works best for you.

 

[cerbera84]

I'm using an Inkbird ITC-100VH, you can set either % of power or target temp. Works great

 

[RichardM]

You can't use an STC1000. Their temperature measuring range is -50C to 99C

 

[MikeW]

Thanks everyone. With all your comments I have been able to search the forum using the correct key words.
Looks like my choice could be between an Inkbird ITC308 or a variable voltage regulator. Lots more to learn yet, never thought brewing could get so technical

 

[Mash Monster]

Thanks everyone. With all your comments I have been able to search the forum using the correct key words.
Looks like my choice could be between an Inkbird ITC308 or a variable voltage regulator. Lots more to learn yet, never thought brewing could get so technical

Although I’m looking to upgrade my system I currently use the inkbird
ITC 308 to control both my RIMS 1.5kw and main Boil 2.2kw element they are simple to use plug and play (I have several of them as I use them for my ferm fridges too ) I know some people use them with 2.4kw elements but I personally think it’s too close to the 10 amp load. I did have one dodgy unit that was replaced by inkbird without any hassle though.

 

[Wynne]

Although I’m looking to upgrade my system I currently use the inkbird
ITC 308 to control both my RIMS 1.5kw and main Boil 2.2kw element they are simple to use plug and play (I have several of them as I use them for my ferm fridges too ) I know some people use them with 2.4kw elements but I personally think it’s too close to the 10 amp load. I did have one dodgy unit that was replaced by inkbird without any hassle though.

@MikeW I use one of these to control the intensity of the boil. If you are interested it is worth reading the thread as there are comments about the quality and safety of components that are worth noting. So far, I’m pleased with mine.

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...a-cheap-digital-boiler-power-regulator.74112/

 

[MikeW]

Thanks again for all the info and suggestions. I am very new to this all grain brewing and with only one brew under my belt I think it best to learn to walk before I can run.
Moving forward I think I will get the Inkbird ITC 308 to control the mash and the sparge containers as these two operations are temperature critical?
With my boiler, I have had to by pass the thermostat's temperature sensor as it would only heat to 80 degC when I first tried. So with the boiler modified for full power operation I think a 4kw Variable Voltage Controller (UK`AC 220V 4000W Variable Voltage Regulator Speed Motor Fan Control Controller | eBay) as recommended on another post would give me better control of the rolling boil. I appreciate that I may have to stand over the boiler, possible for the 60 min. duration until I have found the best setting. When I have gained a few more successful brews I could always review my set up.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[Wynne]

Thanks again for all the info and suggestions. I am very new to this all grain brewing and with only one brew under my belt I think it best to learn to walk before I can run.
Moving forward I think I will get the Inkbird ITC 308 to control the mash and the sparge containers as these two operations are temperature critical?
With my boiler, I have had to by pass the thermostat's temperature sensor as it would only heat to 80 degC when I first tried. So with the boiler modified for full power operation I think a 4kw Variable Voltage Controller (UK`AC 220V 4000W Variable Voltage Regulator Speed Motor Fan Control Controller | eBay) as recommended on another post would give me better control of the rolling boil. I appreciate that I may have to stand over the boiler, possible for the 60 min. duration until I have found the best setting. When I have gained a few more successful brews I could always review my set up.
Cheers,
Mike

@MikeW - that sounds a fine plan. I use an Inkbird to set my strike and sparge water temperatures in the HLT (a separate tea urn). I use a single temperature infusion mash in an insulated mash tun which doesn’t require active temperature control. For the boil, I use 100% power until the wort starts boiling then dial it down to around 55-60% for the duration of the boil. Happy brewing!

 

[hoppyscotty]

Mash control is basically the most important part of the process in terms of what you can practically influence so definitely temp control dependant. Wether you need active temp control depends on your vessel insulation and size. If your vessel is large and insulated enough then chances are you'll only lose half a degree to a degree temp over an hours mash which is more than acceptable. My insulated mash tun loses about 1.5 degrees over an hour so I employ active heating which is probably not on for most of the 60 min mash as its just ticking over to maintain temperature. But if you have a smaller vessel with no insulation then you'll probably lose more temp over the mash and it could be a problem driving inconsistency into your process and impacting efficiency. I think an Inkbird 308 will be fine for mash control. Plenty of systems use just that. I can easily maintain within a degree temp control with an Inkbird 308 during fermentation and there are some settings to keep the temp control a bit tighter or not so tight depending on the response of the system.

I think sparge is less important especially if you do a mash out. The main benefit is to not cool your mash runnings down too much lengthening your boil time.

 

[Beerwegoagain]

I've just ordered a SCR voltage control to run my boiler which doubles as a HLT too. I considered a PID/SSR but opted for this. The boiler has an inbuilt thermometer and I have a second one with a cabled probe.
Looking for confirmation I have not screwed up in my choice and any advice please.
Ta very much