Strike Temperature

[Crappyfish]

Bet this has been asked before but going to ask it anyway
When doing AG and raising water to strike temperature do I need to go above the required temp then put the grain in to lower the temperature or raise it to the required temp then put the grain in and let the boiler reheat to the correct temperature. I have noticed some kits ask for a higher strike temperature then lower it after 10mins or so and some say put grain in at a certain temperature and reheat. Is this just dependant on the type of grain or is there 2 schools of thought on strike temperature?

 

[Gerryjo]

Bet this has been asked before but going to ask it anyway
When doing AG and raising water to strike temperature do I need to go above the required temp then put the grain in to lower the temperature or raise it to the required temp then put the grain in and let the boiler reheat to the correct temperature. I have noticed some kits ask for a higher strike temperature then lower it after 10mins or so and some say put grain in at a certain temperature and reheat. Is this just dependant on the type of grain or is there 2 schools of thought on strike temperature?

There's a link to a calculator which is quite accurate on BF.
Simply add your grain weight, your strike water amount,grain temp and it will give you your strike temp which you may have to adjust +/- slightly.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

 

[Nicks90]

That link is what I use and I find it very accurate

 

[Ghillie]

Bet this has been asked before but going to ask it anyway
When doing AG and raising water to strike temperature do I need to go above the required temp then put the grain in to lower the temperature or raise it to the required temp then put the grain in and let the boiler reheat to the correct temperature. I have noticed some kits ask for a higher strike temperature then lower it after 10mins or so and some say put grain in at a certain temperature and reheat. Is this just dependant on the type of grain or is there 2 schools of thought on strike temperature?

The first option is more energy efficient.

 

[Crappyfish]

Looks like if I'm right using a calc is the way forward and it doesn't really impact the wort which ever way it's done.
Thanks all

 

[Clint]

Once you've done it a few times you'll have an idea what works for you and your kit and unless the grain bill way different or the temp of the grain varies you won't be far away

 

[Crappyfish]

Just another question. I have a all in one brewer with a circulation pump I thought the pump had packed up but it hadn't I reckon it was sticky wort stopping it what's best solution to stop it happening again is it just clean it if so what's best way

 

[Clint]

After you've finished you probably need to run some hot cleaning solution through it...oxi or something similar. Then rinse it out.

 

[Crappyfish]

Yes I reckon star San would do thanks mate

 

[Llamaman]

Yes I reckon star San would do thanks mate

Starsan isn’t a cleaner, it’s a sanitiser.
It’s job is to sanitise surfaces that are already clean - it won’t clean by itself.

You should use a separate cleaner first, rinse if necessary (depending on the cleaner used) THEN apply Starsan to sanitise it for storage. And then sanitise it again before use.

 

[GerritT]

Bet this has been asked before but going to ask it anyway
When doing AG and raising water to strike temperature do I need to go above the required temp then put the grain in to lower the temperature or raise it to the required temp then put the grain in and let the boiler reheat to the correct temperature. I have noticed some kits ask for a higher strike temperature then lower it after 10mins or so and some say put grain in at a certain temperature and reheat. Is this just dependant on the type of grain or is there 2 schools of thought on strike temperature?

There's one school I know of: calculate strike temperature, heat water to calculated strike temperature, add grain, find out it's either 2º too hot or too cold, add hot or cold water while cursing until desired temperature had been reached.
Set the alarm for an hour or more, kick back or clean the kitchen.

But you have the right questions, I like that.
:small

 

[Crappyfish]

Starsan isn’t a cleaner, it’s a sanitiser.
It’s job is to sanitise surfaces that are already clean - it won’t clean by itself.

You should use a separate cleaner first, rinse if necessary (depending on the cleaner used) THEN apply Starsan to sanitise it for storage. And then sanitise it again before use.

Can you recommend a cleaner that would take the sticky stuff away inused a mild washing up liquid mix then used starsan point taken thanks

 

[GerritT]

Can you recommend a cleaner that would take the sticky stuff away inused a mild washing up liquid mix then used starsan point taken thanks

I assume you have a plastic fermenter. You know those green&yellow pads? Use the yellow first until only a light resinous plaque remains. Then use the green part. It wil come of. After that use the yellow pad again with nonrinse sanitiser.

Over here we use Biotex Green, the one with enzymes, for soaks and the like. Not sure how it's abroad. Anyway: cleaning with yellow, scrub with green, end it with some nonrinse sanitiser on a yellow pad.
And on the next brewday, clean it again.
Brewing is cleaning.

 

[Llamaman]

I assume you have a plastic fermenter. You know those green&yellow pads? Use the yellow first until only a light resinous plaque remains. Then use the green part. It wil come of. After that use the yellow pad again with nonrinse sanitiser.

Over here we use Biotex Green, the one with enzymes, for soaks and the like. Not sure how it's abroad. Anyway: cleaning with yellow, scrub with green, end it with some nonrinse sanitiser on a yellow pad.
And on the next brewday, clean it again.
Brewing is cleaning.

The OP was talking about a recirculation pump, so I doubt he had direct access to the surfaces, hence why I suggested using a cleaning agent.

I agree about fermenters, except I only use the yellow side. I wipe the worst off with a wet wipe/damp kitchen towel, then soak in warm water for 10 minutes and give it a wipe with the Spondex.
If there’s still gunk, I just give it another soak and wipe. Rinse and repeat.
The reason I don’t use the scrubbing side is because we are always told to to avoid scratching fermenters. I suspect the risk is overstated, but it’s a risk easily avoided anyway.

 

[Llamaman]

Can you recommend a cleaner that would take the sticky stuff away inused a mild washing up liquid mix then used starsan point taken thanks

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/cleaners-sterilisers-dilution-rates-and-uses-guide.53702/
There’s also PBW

 

[Gerryjo]

If it's a recirculating pump hook it up to the boiler and purge with boiling water which will certainly get rid of the wort and cleanse the lines.Run some stars an through afterwards.