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Further to my pondering...

I can get hold of an immersion heater element from a friend. These are big boys and require a big cut out. Anyone have any tips for getting a tight seal on these? Will the 50ltr Nordic Optical stockpots have a big enough curve for me to fit a standard 11inch element leak free? Will I need more than one? Have I got anymore questions? Yes!

Could I fit an element (probably not immersion heater) to a 70ltr Nordic Optical thermobox and use it for mashing as normal. Then empty and use as my boiler? Aside from getting the grains out what can people see as an issue? I was thinking a false bottom which I'd then remove and fit the hop strainer.
 
arturobandini said:
Further to my pondering...

I can get hold of an immersion heater element from a friend. These are big boys and require a big cut out. Anyone have any tips for getting a tight seal on these? Will the 50ltr Nordic Optical stockpots have a big enough curve for me to fit a standard 11inch element leak free? Will I need more than one? Have I got anymore questions? Yes!

I fitted mine with no problem. I used a 60mm QMax punch to make the hole (if you do it, get a 64mm), then a boa constrictor strap wrench to hold the backnut (available from BES) while tightening up with a standard immersion spanner. The wall of the stockpot is fairly thin so will flatten to create a good seal.

I'd suggest getting an immersion heater element that can stand up to aggressive water, they're usually made out of an alloy rather than copper. Again, BES is your man.

I've used one element in my HLT (because I don't care how long that takes to get up to temp, it'll be on an early morning timer) and I will have the facility for two in the boiler. I may end up getting a regulator to control the element for 25l batches as one 3kw element may be too much - it certainly is on my current boiler.

Could I fit an element (probably not immersion heater) to a 70ltr Nordic Optical thermobox and use it for mashing as normal. Then empty and use as my boiler? Aside from getting the grains out what can people see as an issue? I was thinking a false bottom which I'd then remove and fit the hop strainer.

Hot spots. You won't be able to control the temperature of the mash properly. It's much easier to use a HLT and add directly to your grist without having to control teh temperature in the mash tun.

However, saying that, people have done it like that before. I just personally wouldn't.
 
Thanks James.

Regarding the thermobox mash tun I was thinking of fitting a couple of 2.4kw elements and using it as my boiler after running off the mashed wort into a collection vessel. Removing the false bottom and fitting the hop strainer would then allow me to run the wort back into the thermobox and get the elements on the boil inside the thermobox. I'd have a cheapo placcy hlt with scavenged elements for heating up the sparge water for the batch sparging. Does this sound unfeasible? Seems straightforward in my head despite a little fanagling about emptying the spent grain and removing/switching the strainers and manifolds before returning the wort for the boil.
 

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