STC-1000

[matth]

Just googled for that version - its 2.2KW - would this be ok on a 10a relay?

 

[Stapsin]

A few questions...

Thinking about doing this but have a few questions. Currently I have a tall/larder fridge but my cornys are in it and so I wasn't planning on using it as a fermenting fridge but I might in future. My flat is already fairly cool most of the time so heating rather than cooling would be the optimum use of the stc.

Theoretically then if I wasn't using a cooling source could I just have the controller attached to a heating belt for when the temperature drops too low and when it then gets too high the STC just turns the belt off rather than turning the cooler on? Could you just have it wired up exactly the same with two plugs (for future use with a fridge) but not have a cooling source plugged in?

Instead of using the terminal blocks is it possible to use twist wire connectors instead?

Is it easier to have plug sockets or is having extension leads leaving the box for the heating/cooling just as easy?

Thanks

 

[stubrewworx]

Welcome to the Forum Shep!
I agree with Fil, it is an easy build, the hardest part is cutting the hole for the STC unit.
I do doubt your £25 for parts, the project box alone will cost over £10!

I'm just on with creating the housing box. Tipperware style. How have you guys gone about this?

Think I've just ruined 1 box already!

 

[jonnyconga]

As regards the 10amps on a stc1000 I wouldn't be happy with that. It's very close if not past the limit and I'd be nervous at leaving it alone - wouldn't want to come home to a burnt down house (or shed in my case).
I'm pretty sure there's a version of the stc that only does heating and goes up to 13A.
I use a 40W light bulb to heat my fermentation fridge. Cheap.
My fermentation fridge and temp control was the biggest boost in my brewing technique / taste so far - well worth the bother (and good fun tinkering...!)

 

[TheBigLebowski]

The project boxes don't have to be expensive - This from Screwfix is less than £5

 

[midlandhomebrewshed]

sank mine into the wall just completed it got to silicone around it and everywhere else but sand idea put my heat plate in the fridge I havnt got a cold output once it gets to 22 it shuts off and just keeps topping the warmth up I figured otherwise my electricity is going to be on all day heating and cooling, I've had it running a few times and once up to temp it shuts off for about 50 mins because of the insulation in the fridge as standard then comes back on for a few mins

 

[stubrewworx]

The project boxes don't have to be expensive - This from Screwfix is less than £5

Your box doesn't look fully closed. Is that because the stc 1000 too deep, or is it just an early photo during the build?

How did you cut the hole for the stc?

Cheers.

 

[TheBigLebowski]

Your box doesn't look fully closed. Is that because the stc 1000 too deep, or is it just an early photo during the build?

How did you cut the hole for the stc?

Cheers.

No there's plenty of room - just an early build photo as you said. A dremel went through the lid in about a minute!

This is for my HLT, so I only have a hardwired hot IEC plug

 

[matth]

Could someone please point me in the direction of a decent 'how to' or forum post about wiring a relay to an STC-1000.

I am contemplating just risking it with the 10amp though and seeing what happens.

Cheers

 

[midlandhomebrewshed]

that's how it goes pretty simple

 

[matth]

View attachment 173 that's how it goes pretty simple

I think i am being incredibly dim, is this a diagram to wire a relay to an STC 1000? I don't need cool as i am just using it to contol a 2.2kw element in a HLT. It should draw about 9.2 amp ish and everyone seems a bit concerned that this is too close to the built in 10amp relay so was looking into sticking a 13 amp relay in there or something.

Cheers

 

[Fil]

Hi that diagram is for wiring up without an extra hi amp relay, if under 10a draw u dont need an extra relay. howevwr if its just for heating ebay will sell u a similar controller without the cooling relay and a big 30a heating relay as is.

 

[midlandhomebrewshed]

I've only got mine to heat, heats up a standard heat plate into a redundant fridge

 

[matth]

Hi that diagram is for wiring up without an extra hi amp relay, if under 10a draw u dont need an extra relay. howevwr if its just for heating ebay will sell u a similar controller without the cooling relay and a big 30a heating relay as is.

I have been trying to find one of those without luck - i have now bought a 40 amp SSR and heat sinc to put on to my 10a STC-1000 - i think i have found a wiring diagram for that now, so i'll see how that goes when the bits eventually arrive from china

 

[midlandhomebrewshed]

I just have a standard heatplate in a redundant fridge all that is wired in is the heat source I have never had any problems

 

[Fil]

I have been trying to find one of those without luck - i have now bought a 40 amp SSR and heat sinc to put on to my 10a STC-1000 - i think i have found a wiring diagram for that now, so i'll see how that goes when the bits eventually arrive from china

I AM NO ELECTRICIAN AND AM NOT QUALIFIED TO GIVE TECHNICAL ADVICE..

that said i have used ssrs with my pid, power and arduino controllers

what type have you got? there are at least 3 variants im aware of dc switched, ac switched, and variable control via a potentiometer.. if DC switched all u need is to add a small dc transformer like a phone charger or even a battery (tho would be a pita to keep changing) to provide the switching voltage and use the stc1000 heating relay to switch that control voltage on and off


also dont forget a heatsink for the ssr AND be aware that ssrs can 'bleed' so if all powered up and not switched on some power can bleed thru the ssr and heat up an element.. So always submerge the elements below liquid before plugging in the controller i discovered this after fitting a neon indicator inline after an ssr for my hlt elements and when OFF the neon still flickered a lil... hmmmmmmm

 

[matth]

It's an AC one - 230v 10a built in relay - i like your suggestions, but tbh sounds beyond my capabilities or proper understanding to be confident in trying something like that.

Going to follow this diagram for wiring in a SSR - just not linking the cooling circuit

 

[darrenwest1]

it can just be wired to a 20 amp relay

 

[Fil]

It's an AC one - 230v 10a built in relay - i like your suggestions, but tbh sounds beyond my capabilities or proper understanding to be confident in trying something like that.

Going to follow this diagram for wiring in a SSR - just not linking the cooling circuit

The diagram opens up in its own tab with a right click looks right on the money to me.

i mentioned the dc switched SSRs as they are used predominantly with pid controllers and are pretty cheap to pick up on ebay, with an ac switched SSR then u have no extra bits to add, but do be aware of the risk of a power bleed thru a ssr when turned off, but supplied with a load current.

 

[matth]

Cheers - i have ordered a 40 amp SSR with a heat sinc as it was not much more than a 20 and thought i could use it again if i upgrade.

Will bear in mind the heat leach, although i do not plan on running it too long - mainly set it on a timer so that it is on an hour before i get up in a morning - ready to do a mash before breakfast, then just to heat the sparge water.

I just got fed up of waiting for water to heat up, then over heating it and waiting for it to cool down etc.

Cheers