STC 1000 wiring problem and Inkbird choice

[Ale]

I have an STC 1000 which I temporarily wired up to see if it would work. I ended up using it with a heat belt and no cooling. Now I have a fridge to add I checked the wiring and found a couple were lose so it needed redoing and I thought I would do a better permanent job. I had googled wiring diagrams and came up with this lot:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...7hs87RAhVLfxoKHcLhA5cQsAQIGw&biw=1829&bih=877

The temp wiring was done using the connector block of 3 connectors. Now I am doing a more permanent job I decided to go to the 8 connector block version (inc the earth connector). All done and I gave it a check when finished but noticed a problem I'm unsure of.

The sockets have live and neutral terminals, which are marked, but they are the opposite sides to what I expected. So the live (brown) wire on the socket is where the live (blue) pin on the plug. I was expecting live to live and neutral to neutral. Anyone know if this is correct?

So anyway, the wife says I should get one thats ready made so I am likely to buy an Inkbird (it takes away any worry about having wired it wrong causing a problem in the future). So I'm looking at Inkbirds and wondering if the one with the long probe here is worth getting
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AWA2PQY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

compared to this version
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K82UQU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Is the long temp probe a good thing? I'm thinking it will make checking mash temp, fermentation temp, etc more accurate. I am thinking put a grommet in the lid and put the probe in so it is held in place with a good seal.

The other consideration is which probe is easier to put through the drain hole in the fridge? If necessary I will make the drain hole a bit bigger to fit the cable for my heat belt and the probe. The cable which can be disconnected on the long probe or smaller probe?

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
This is the diagram I used for my latest STC1000 wiring. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/Samohon/Homebrew%20Images/STC-1000WiringDiag.jpg
The heating belt is only about 25W, so you could make a trailing socket using 0.75mm² flex (Wilko's), plug the heat belt into the socket inside the fridge with the flex passing out through the drain hole along with the sensor wire - the narrower flex will allow the sensor wire to fit as well. I didn't bother with the long probe - I fasten my probe to the outside of the FV under a piece of foam.
Re: socket wiring - wire the terminals as they are marked on the rear of the socket fitting.

 

[nigelnorris]

I think, but can't be sure, that the 308 has a probe that's hard wired into the unit. It would be a mission having to unthread it from your fridge every time you wanted to make other uses of it.

The 308S however has a detachable probe, I know that because I've got one. So you could get the latter, buy a short probe and leave it fixed into the fridge, and just unhook that from the Inkbird on brew days and have a second probe, the longer one, for brewing.

I do what you suggested by the way, hang the probe through the grommet normally used for the airlock, I tied a knot in the cable just above the probe to stop it falling in. I wedge it in with a bit of kitchen roll, keeps the insects out but lets the CO2 out of the FV when needed.

 

[BeerCat]

Hi!
This is the diagram I used for my latest STC1000 wiring. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/Samohon/Homebrew Images/STC-1000WiringDiag.jpg
The heating belt is only about 25W, so you could make a trailing socket using 0.75mm² flex (Wilko's), plug the heat belt into the socket inside the fridge with the flex passing out through the drain hole along with the sensor wire - the narrower flex will allow the sensor wire to fit as well. I didn't bother with the long probe - I fasten my probe to the outside of the FV under a piece of foam.
Re: socket wiring - wire the terminals as they are marked on the rear of the socket fitting.

I used this wiring diagram, seems a bit simpler to copy.
Do they both come with metal probes or plastic. Having them detachable is a good idea. What sort of connection do they use?

 

[Ale]

Hi!
This is the diagram I used for my latest STC1000 wiring. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/Samohon/Homebrew%20Images/STC-1000WiringDiag.jpg
The heating belt is only about 25W, so you could make a trailing socket using 0.75mm² flex (Wilko's), plug the heat belt into the socket inside the fridge with the flex passing out through the drain hole along with the sensor wire - the narrower flex will allow the sensor wire to fit as well. I didn't bother with the long probe - I fasten my probe to the outside of the FV under a piece of foam.
Re: socket wiring - wire the terminals as they are marked on the rear of the socket fitting.

Thats the diagram I used this time and thats all done fine. What I am more concerned about is the sockets. I'm fairly sure the live connection in the socket should go to the live connection in the socket and neutral to neutral, but if i wire them as shown it will be live to neutral.

At the end of the day, I'm about to get a reasonably substantial inheritance so the amount for this is fairly insignificant. I will also be getting equipment to go all grain. If I get the one with the long probe I am thinking I could get a couple of stock pots and an induction hob. I will use the long probe through a hole in the lid to cut off the hob at the correct mash temperature. I'll then take it off the hob, wrap in a blanket/duvet and use the hob with the other stock pot to heat the sparge water. Once the sparge is done the first pot goes back on the induction hob for the boil. The only problem will be getting something that I hope can be used as a grain basket and hop spider, a bit like the Bulldog Brewer.

The alternative is buy the Bulldog Brewer, but for about an extra £200 it includes the chiller and a re-circulation pump. Is it really worth it?

 

[Bigcol49]

. . . if i wire them as shown it will be live to neutral.

Hi!
What diagram shows the wiring of the socket?

 

[Chippy_Tea]

Originally Posted by Ale

. . . if i wire them as shown it will be live to neutral.

 

[Ale]

Instead of the Inkbird ITC-308S I was considering the Inkbird ITC-310T
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Fermenta...d=1484854499&sr=8-1&keywords=inkbird+ITC-310t

Is the 6 stage programming much of an advantage? The 12 inch probe can be bought seperately and is compatible with it, so it appears the probe can be unplugged.

 

[Ale]

Hi!
What diagram shows the wiring of the socket?

None. The sockets have an L and a N where the wires connect, but they are the other way around to the wires/pins in the plug so the live pin goes in the hole with the live wire in the socket. The wife says I should get a ready made one so who am I to argue and turn away the chance to upgrade.

 

[Ale]

I asked on Amazon if the probe on the Inkbird ITC-310T can be unplugged the 12" one can be plugged in and got a quick answer, apparently it cant, its listed wrongly. So its the 308S with the long probe or the programmable stages of the 310T

 

[Aphid]

I think, but can't be sure, that the 308 has a probe that's hard wired into the unit. It would be a mission having to unthread it from your fridge every time you wanted to make other uses of it.

The 308S however has a detachable probe, I know that because I've got one. So you could get the latter, buy a short probe and leave it fixed into the fridge, and just unhook that from the Inkbird on brew days and have a second probe, the longer one, for brewing.

I bought an Inkbird ITC-308 a couple of months ago and have been very pleased with its ease of use. The probe used to be wired into the unit but no longer. Mine is detachable like the 308s with the longer probe. The 308 with the shorter temperature probe is ideal for monitoring FV temperatures in my brew fridge and also for maintaining conditioning temperatures for my bottles in the same brew fridge. I actually don't feed this through the drain hole. The connecting wire is thin enough to be sandwiched between the door seal without any adverse affect.

The longer probe may be more problematic trying to insulate it against the side of the FV. You could always get a longer probe as an extra if you really needed it.

 

[Fil]

can you post a picture of the oddly labeled socket plate @Ale?? It does sound odd, all i can say when ever i have replaced faceplates ive always followed the L,N,E stamps on the terminals and have not had a big bang yet?? is it posible the contacts run behind insulation and switch when hidden from sight?? or are you getting right n left confused when mirroring as you looking at the back of both aspects ??

 

[Ale]

I bought an Inkbird ITC-308 a couple of months ago and have been very pleased with its ease of use. The probe used to be wired into the unit but no longer. Mine is detachable like the 308s with the longer probe. The 308 with the shorter temperature probe is ideal for monitoring FV temperatures in my brew fridge and also for maintaining conditioning temperatures for my bottles in the same brew fridge. I actually don't feed this through the drain hole. The connecting wire is thin enough to be sandwiched between the door seal without any adverse affect.

The longer probe may be more problematic trying to insulate it against the side of the FV. You could always get a longer probe as an extra if you really needed it.

What I was thinking of doing was putting a second hole with a grommet in the FV lid. The long probe will then go through that into the wort with a good seal. The first hole would still be for the airlock. Just need to find the right size grommit.

 

[nigelnorris]

What I was thinking of doing was putting a second hole with a grommet in the FV lid. The long probe will then go through that into the wort with a good seal. The first hole would still be for the airlock. Just need to find the right size grommit.

An idea I've had is to take about a foot of something like 8mm copper or better stainless tube, seal one end and fit some sort of rubbery collar [like a bung with the right sized hole] to the other so that it can rest in a hole in the lid and be self sealing. Then that can be sterilised and fitted semi permanently and used as what I imagine a thermowell is. Just drop the inkbird probe into it without worrying about having to sterilise it or seal up the hole around it.

 

[Ale]

can you post a picture of the oddly labeled socket plate @Ale?? It does sound odd, all i can say when ever i have replaced faceplates ive always followed the L,N,E stamps on the terminals and have not had a big bang yet?? is it posible the contacts run behind insulation and switch when hidden from sight?? or are you getting right n left confused when mirroring as you looking at the back of both aspects ??

I'll post it tomorrow.

 

[Ale]

An idea I've had is to take about a foot of something like 8mm copper or better stainless tube, seal one end and fit some sort of rubbery collar [like a bung with the right sized hole] to the other so that it can rest in a hole in the lid and be self sealing. Then that can be sterilised and fitted semi permanently and used as what I imagine a thermowell is. Just drop the inkbird probe into it without worrying about having to sterilise it or seal up the hole around it.

The wife suggested I buy it, that means I spend what I think is necessary. Of course that means (having had a look at costs) buying the 308s with the short probe and buying the long probe as an extra, about �£40 for both here
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AWA2PTG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Best of both worlds and the wife on board. Thats what I call a win win situation :grin:

 

[Fil]

probes used for thermometers generally contain the sensor at the tip. in order to get a good reading from a thermowell or pocket you need to make good positive contact with the tip of the probe against the well end/base.

however when applying temperature change via the medium of air in a brewfridge you may be better off taking readings of the brew close to where the change is effected (FV wall) during active fermentation the brew will be in motion and will therefore normalise its temperature throughout rapidly, However at the beginning and end of fermentation the brew will effectively be a still liquid. And as such temperature change effected from the outside wall can over/under step the target at the perimeter before the centre reaches target resulting in the need to work now in the opposite direction, and the system can chase itself 24/7..

imho having the sensor measure close to where the change is effected from that is against the FV wall behind an insulating pad will be more responsive to any input applied and therefore maintain the target temp with minimal fluctuations and input.

If you need to repurpose the controller then how about getting 2 x probes one ideally suited for each use you intend to apply it to.

audio XLR and mini xlr plugs and sockets are very popular and cheap solutions to plugging in sensors for pids and stc1000 controllers when boxed up

 

[shepp]

The wife suggested I buy it, that means I spend what I think is necessary. Of course that means (having had a look at costs) buying the 308s with the short probe and buying the long probe as an extra, about ��£40 for both here
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AWA2PTG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Best of both worlds and the wife on board. Thats what I call a win win situation :grin:

Why the constant references about what your wife thinks :hmm:
I tend to wear the trousers in my house ;-)

 

[Ale]

Why the constant references about what your wife thinks :hmm:
I tend to wear the trousers in my house ;-)

If I say to my wife she has to wait to buy something and then go out and spend money on my hobby it doesnt look good. I take her views into consideration when I decide what we spend our money on. You will notice that a lot of people on here call their wives SWMBO. I dont for a reason.

P.S. Tell your poor, downtrodden wife that I have sympathy for her :whistle::lol:

 

[Bigcol49]

Tell your poor, downtrodden wife that I have sympathy for her :whistle::lol:

Hi!
Good advice, Ale.

@shepp: Ale and his missus have what is known as a "relationship". You'll have to give it a try one of these days :lol: