STC 1000 wiring problem and Inkbird choice

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What I was thinking of doing was putting a second hole with a grommet in the FV lid. The long probe will then go through that into the wort with a good seal. The first hole would still be for the airlock. Just need to find the right size grommit.
At the end of the day if that is something you want to try then you should go ahead. However...

A couple of months ago I read an article written by someone who had conducted a 'scientific' study about the best location for the temperature probe during fermentation- graphs, the lot! From memory I think it was three variations - in the ambient air of the brew fridge, submerged in the fermenting wort, and against the side of the FV covered by insulating material and fixed half way up. His results showed the latter to be the best location. I think IN the wort was second. From what I have read on the forum taped to the side of the FV is also by far the most popular method.

By having the probe in the fermenting wort I would think you are also opening up an extra opportunity for unwanted infection. I guess only you can decide if it is worth the risk.
 
can you post a picture of the oddly labeled socket plate @Ale?? It does sound odd, all i can say when ever i have replaced faceplates ive always followed the L,N,E stamps on the terminals and have not had a big bang yet?? is it posible the contacts run behind insulation and switch when hidden from sight?? or are you getting right n left confused when mirroring as you looking at the back of both aspects ??

Heres a picture.

As you can see the plug is in exactly the position it will go into the socket, which is shown from behind. The neutral pin will go into the live hole in the socket.

I've wired it up as per the markings on the socket and plugged it in using a RCD so if it went bang the power would be cut and my home electrics would be protected. The heat and cool controls seem to be working ok. If the circuit is wired up the wrong way it will kill the fridge fairly quickly.

My wife still wants me to get the ready made inkbird, so I'm going to do that and keep this as a spare in case I ever need a second one. I'll get the 308S with the probe which can be unplugged and the 12" one added instead so I have the best of both.

20170120_105330.jpg
 
At the end of the day if that is something you want to try then you should go ahead. However...

A couple of months ago I read an article written by someone who had conducted a 'scientific' study about the best location for the temperature probe during fermentation- graphs, the lot! From memory I think it was three variations - in the ambient air of the brew fridge, submerged in the fermenting wort, and against the side of the FV covered by insulating material and fixed half way up. His results showed the latter to be the best location. I think IN the wort was second. From what I have read on the forum taped to the side of the FV is also by far the most popular method.

By having the probe in the fermenting wort I would think you are also opening up an extra opportunity for unwanted infection. I guess only you can decide if it is worth the risk.

Im planning on moving to AG soon. The probe will be good for mash and sparge water temps. I've been using the STC 1000 with the probe under a bit of polystyrene. As I'm due the inheritance I will get both the small and long probe so I can decide which to use for which use.

Did the article you read take into account some things I've read including it makes a difference where in the wort you put the probe? Apparently if you put it right in the middle it will be the coolest part of the wort (or if the yeast is generating heat the warmest part!) which you dont want want to be measuring, but also its not best to put it at edge either. From what I read I was thinking about half way between the two, if I go down that route. As long as I get reasonable beer I'm not too fussed.
 
As you can see the plug is in exactly the position it will go into the socket, which is shown from behind. The neutral pin will go into the live hole in the socket.

Hi!
I've just checked the single sockets I bought from Wilko - the terminals correspond to the plug pins.
I suggest you hasten down to Wilko to get a new socket (dirt cheap).
Colin
 
Im planning on moving to AG soon. The probe will be good for mash and sparge water temps. I've been using the STC 1000 with the probe under a bit of polystyrene. As I'm due the inheritance I will get both the small and long probe so I can decide which to use for which use.

Did the article you read take into account some things I've read including it makes a difference where in the wort you put the probe? Apparently if you put it right in the middle it will be the coolest part of the wort (or if the yeast is generating heat the warmest part!) which you dont want want to be measuring, but also its not best to put it at edge either. From what I read I was thinking about half way between the two, if I go down that route. As long as I get reasonable beer I'm not too fussed.
Can't remember where the sensor was in the wort, to be honest. As you say, it's about ending up with a nice pint of beer! Amen to that.
Good luck with the AG. Looking to head that way in the near future, too.
 
I think that we can sometimes over think things or try and solve problems that don't exist. I believe this is one of those problems. I am relatively new to brewing (completed 14 brews in total) and have done a lot of reading to try and understand the art and science of brewing, and I have found there are many ways to get really great tasting beers. I have read a lot about brew fridges and looked at different setups and arguments for maintaining fermentation temps and have come to the conclusion that a little variance in temp is ok, so long as its not too great. In my brew fridge, I have a 45w tube heater and an Inkbird controlling it all. The probe just hangs in the air half way down the fridge on one side, and I don't have any fans in there. I have watched the inkbird readout to look for constant temp changes to see if the set up was chasing itself, it wasn't. If I set it at 19°c, it will stay at that temp, only dropping and then rising to 19°c again.

All of my brews have turned out ok and I am happy with the fermentation temp control with this set up. I'm not saying its the best or most accurate, but it is ok for what I need and I don't see the need to change it.

Jas
 
Heres a picture.

As you can see the plug is in exactly the position it will go into the socket, which is shown from behind. The neutral pin will go into the live hole in the socket.

I've wired it up as per the markings on the socket and plugged it in using a RCD so if it went bang the power would be cut and my home electrics would be protected. The heat and cool controls seem to be working ok. If the circuit is wired up the wrong way it will kill the fridge fairly quickly.

My wife still wants me to get the ready made inkbird, so I'm going to do that and keep this as a spare in case I ever need a second one. I'll get the 308S with the probe which can be unplugged and the 12" one added instead so I have the best of both.

That plugtop looks like a cheap imitation as it is not displaying either a kite mark or EC mark,as well as that there mould print is wrong.
My advice is do not fit this as it is not legal and would not be covered in your house insurance if found to be root cause of an electrical fire and you dont no the make up of the contacts or even the ampere rating.
Go to a wholesaler and get a fused spur/swicth which will let you do away with the plug top as well as having the option to fit the fuse with a 5 amp fuse.
Electricity is not to be messed with.
PS I am a qualified spark.
 
Im planning on moving to AG soon. The probe will be good for mash and sparge water temps.

Did the article you read take into account some things I've read including it makes a difference where in the wort you put the probe? Apparently if you put it right in the middle it will be the coolest part of the wort (or if the yeast is generating heat the warmest part!) which you dont want want to be measuring, but also its not best to put it at edge either. From what I read I was thinking about half way between the two, if I go down that route. As long as I get reasonable beer I'm not too fussed.
Here is the article I was referring to.
It was some time ago but I am quite sure it is the one.
 
That plugtop looks like a cheap imitation as it is not displaying either a kite mark or EC mark,as well as that there mould print is wrong.
My advice is do not fit this as it is not legal and would not be covered in your house insurance if found to be root cause of an electrical fire and you dont no the make up of the contacts or even the ampere rating.
Go to a wholesaler and get a fused spur/swicth which will let you do away with the plug top as well as having the option to fit the fuse with a 5 amp fuse.
Electricity is not to be messed with.
PS I am a qualified spark.

The plug has a wiring card on it so you cant even see the plug body and it came from Screwfix who dont sell illegal plugs. The socket came from B and Q and has a Asta Lic mark which is perfectly acceptable.

A 5 amp fuse wont be sufficient if I use this to control mash temp when I go to AG brewing.

The kite mark is for BSI only, not anything approved by other bodies. EC is the old version of the CE mark.

I dont want a spur as I wont be able to change what is connected. 5 amps is too low, I do know the rating which is 13 amps which is what I want.

I'm not a qualified electrician but worked for an electricity supplier including dealing with electricians so know most of what you said is wrong. If you are a sparky I suggest you get yourself on some courses to get yourself up to date.

And you didnt answer the one question I asked, but as a qualified electrician you should have known the answer.
 
The plug has a wiring card on it so you cant even see the plug body and it came from Screwfix who dont sell illegal plugs. The socket came from B and Q and has a Asta Lic mark which is perfectly acceptable.

A 5 amp fuse wont be sufficient if I use this to control mash temp when I go to AG brewing.

The kite mark is for BSI only, not anything approved by other bodies. EC is the old version of the CE mark.

I dont want a spur as I wont be able to change what is connected. 5 amps is too low, I do know the rating which is 13 amps which is what I want.

I'm not a qualified electrician but worked for an electricity supplier including dealing with electricians so know most of what you said is wrong. If you are a sparky I suggest you get yourself on some courses to get yourself up to date.

And you didnt answer the one question I asked, but as a qualified electrician you should have known the answer.

Sorry @Ale I do apologise aand was thinking about the inkbird controlling your fridge as I had been looking at another thread.
Back to your socket and I looked at it and realised that the instruction card on the rear of your plug through me off as it is designed to read when you are wiring the plugtop.If you open the plug you shall find that the wiring is correct as the live fuse side will be on your right hand side,neutral to your left and earth top centre.:thumb:
 
Heres a picture.

As you can see the plug is in exactly the position it will go into the socket, which is shown from behind. The neutral pin will go into the live hole in the socket.

I've wired it up as per the markings on the socket and plugged it in using a RCD so if it went bang the power would be cut and my home electrics would be protected. The heat and cool controls seem to be working ok. If the circuit is wired up the wrong way it will kill the fridge fairly quickly.

My wife still wants me to get the ready made inkbird, so I'm going to do that and keep this as a spare in case I ever need a second one. I'll get the 308S with the probe which can be unplugged and the 12" one added instead so I have the best of both.

It's correct, the card is supplied to take off that side of the plug. Then open the plug up. Look into the open plug and terminals. Look at the wiring card and it will be correct. The open plug/ terminals will be fuse live to the lower right as you look. Neutral to lower left and earth to top.
The same as the card is printed.
 
Sorry @Ale I do apologise aand was thinking about the inkbird controlling your fridge as I had been looking at another thread.
Back to your socket and I looked at it and realised that the instruction card on the rear of your plug through me off as it is designed to read when you are wiring the plugtop.If you open the plug you shall find that the wiring is correct as the live fuse side will be on your right hand side,neutral to your left and earth top centre.:thumb:

Of course. Thanks for the input. I must have had a brain fart or something.

Having read my earlier comment again, it reads a bit negative. I apologise for it. I have been affected by my food intolerance to sweetcorn recently and sometimes dont realise what it sounds like. There are hundreds of additives made from it including dextrose, brew enhance and lots ofothers. One of the reasons I like doing home brew, so I know what ingredients are in my beer.

I've just had a brew dog and thats got something in thats made it a bit worse.
 
Sweetcorn = :sick:

O.K for fishing but that is it. :lol:

I wouldnt even eat a fish I knew had eaten it. But living on the south coast I do sea fishing so its not really a problem. One of my planned purchases with my inheritance is a boat to go offshore fishing and RYA boating course.
 
Of course. Thanks for the input. I must have had a brain fart or something.

Having read my earlier comment again, it reads a bit negative. I apologise for it. I have been affected by my food intolerance to sweetcorn recently and sometimes dont realise what it sounds like. There are hundreds of additives made from it including dextrose, brew enhance and lots ofothers. One of the reasons I like doing home brew, so I know what ingredients are in my beer.

I've just had a brew dog and thats got something in thats made it a bit worse.

I was in Florida with my family8 years ago and had never been to states before.Lost our friends leaving the airport,run about for three and a half hours after spending 9 hours on a plane with no satnav or map and had been given wrong directions by dogooders and couldn't find a cop.So pissing with rain and run a red light as their traffic setup is crazy and guess who appeared within 10 seconds,not one but two police vehicles.
I pulled over and wound down the window and saw what looked like High-tower from police academy and this guy was huge.
I explained my situation and said that I was never as glad to see a cop in all my life.His answer to me was "Now that's what we call a brain fart" bust out laughing and not only gave me directions but escorted me to the county boundary.👍👍👍👍
 
I was in Florida with my family8 years ago and had never been to states before.Lost our friends leaving the airport,run about for three and a half hours after spending 9 hours on a plane with no satnav or map and had been given wrong directions by dogooders and couldn't find a cop.So pissing with rain and run a red light as their traffic setup is crazy and guess who appeared within 10 seconds,not one but two police vehicles.
I pulled over and wound down the window and saw what looked like High-tower from police academy and this guy was huge.
I explained my situation and said that I was never as glad to see a cop in all my life.His answer to me was "Now that's what we call a brain fart" bust out laughing and not only gave me directions but escorted me to the county boundary.👍👍👍👍

LOL. Although I do suspect he was making sure you got outta town.
 
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