Some AG questions about the Wheeler book.

[guyb]

Ok, so I took the plunge and invested in the book by Wheeler - Brew Your Own British Real Ale 3rd edition.

I've already read the thread on Yeast for this book, as there is no suggested yeast type for any of the recipes.
I also understand the colour addition through the black malt, so I'll not ask about that.

I have a 24L coolbox which I am converting to a mash tun, I have a 32L aluminum pot for boiling, and a few 25L fermenters.

My questions are around (bearing in mind I've not read the entire book yet):

the use of white sugar in some of the recipes, as I thought the real point of the AG was to use just malt as most of the recipes I've read on here use just malt - Is this to do with efficiency?

The recipes have quantities for different volumes (not sure if this is termed brew length), so x grain for 19L, y for 23L and z for 25L (where x, y, z are increasing quantities) - would I still use 24L of mashing water in the mashtun + sparging water regardless of whether I go for a 19, 23 or 25L brew? I assume I need to get as much liquor out of the grain (taking account of absorption by the grain, deadspace, etc).

As a guide, how much mashwater do I aim for (am assuming initial quantity is 23L - as I need to get the lid on), and how much sparging water?

The advice on here seems to suggest generally that I need 1kg grain to 2.5L of water - but I am struggling to understand how a recipe in the Wheeler book compares, as say for a Boddingtons ale for a 19L brew I need:
2660g of Pale Malt
165g of Crystal Malt
84g white sugar

It seems a bit on the low side

..............Or am I missing something fundamental? :wha: :wha: :wha:

 

[guyb]

I wonder if I've got the amount of mash water wrong?

 

[Mr.Everready]

rs.

My questions are around (bearing in mind I've not read the entire book yet):
:

My first answer is, read the rest of the book. :thumb:

I've still to do my first AG but read the book and then read it again, along with the how to bits on this forum, they will help you greatly.

 

[Mr.Everready]

Have a read of this viewtopic.php?f=30&t=493

 

[guyb]

Have a read of this viewtopic.php?f=30&t=493

I thank you my good man, interestingly enough (I should stop using that phrase) I stumbled on that thread not long after your first reply! :thumb:

I think it will become much clearer after reading it - just up to the losses bit in the thread

 

[micmacmoc]

Also download Grahams Beer Engine:
http://www.practicalbrewing.co.uk/calcu ... eerengine/

its great fun to play with and has designed my best brews.
Have fun, its addictive mind!

 

[Dunfie]

Most of the answers you will get from reading the book and also the "How To" but I can pick up a little bit on a couple of the points

the use of white sugar in some of the recipes, as I thought the real point of the AG was to use just malt as most of the recipes I've read on here use just malt - Is this to do with efficiency?

Sugar is a legitimate adjunct that is used in the brewing of beer. White sugar is fully fermentable so will not necessarily provide any extra flavour to a beer but will increase the ABV and will also thin out the beer. Darker sugars that are not as refined will also provide certain flavour nuances to the final product and can be particularly useful in some old ales and dark ales. The bottom line is that it is personal preference but I find it a very useful tool when I am trying achieve a certain flavour profile in my own beer. Also, if you begin to look into the Belgian styles you will find that sugar is used quite extensively.

The advice on here seems to suggest generally that I need 1kg grain to 2.5L of water - but I am struggling to understand how a recipe in the Wheeler book compares, as say for a Boddingtons ale for a 19L brew I need:2660g of Pale Malt165g of Crystal Malt84g white sugarIt seems a bit on the low side

I believe Wheeler works to an 85% brewhouse efficiency. This a figure for the actual extraction that he expects to achieve from his brewing setup. Each brewer will probably calculate this efficiency figure differently and also work to a different efficiency percentage. If you are keen to copy the Boddy recipe then it might be worth trying to work from around 70% efficiency so just multiply Wheelers figures by 1.21 (85% / 70%).

So you might find the 19l brew will be closer to:

Pale Ale:3230g
Crystal:200g
Sugar: 100g

You can then keep detailed notes of what you achieved and then use that to estimate what you want to achieve for your next brew.

 

[BigYin]

I use this book, and did my last 3 brews from it with very good results.

So far I've steered clear of the recipes using sugar. The author explains that its used to try and get as close to the commercial equivalent of the beer, but without the use of all the myriad other possible additions available to commercial breweries.

 

[unclepumble]

There is nothing wrong with using a small amount of white sugar or golden syrup in your AG beers, for some it makes a great beer, try the Pedigree recipe its an absolute Cracker :thumb: :thumb: nothing like commercial pedigree its much better.

I add 23G of WGV in the fermenter when I pitch just to add that little extra, go on try it you won't know there is sugar in it.

UP

 

[Springer]

There is nothing wrong with using a small amount of white sugar or golden syrup in your AG beers, for some it makes a great beer, try the Pedigree recipe its an absolute Cracker :thumb: :thumb: nothing like commercial pedigree its much better.
UP

I'll second that, Sir UP is spot on. :thumb:

Congrats on the gong Shane :clap:

 

[Mike1981]

Ive done a few of the recipes out of the GW book and have been very impressed. Its also good how he gives you the total and mash liquor amounts, although simple to work out its just good to have the info written down.

Shane, what yeast do you put in your pedigree, would Safale S-04 be good? Mite try this next :thumb:
Michael

 

[tazuk]

has any body done robinsons old tom yet ( page 179 3rd edition ) ?????? 8.5 % :shock: i like the look of that :drink: