I just read this on another site.
You will have some sediment in the bottom of your keg if you secondary in it... also, youd have to really put the pressure to the beer to carbonate it much at all at fermentation temps. What would be the purpose of carbonating it in the keg while it is being secondaried? I have also read that fermenting under pressure will inhibit fermentation, not to mention if you are driving CO2 into solution, there will probably not be much inthe way of O2 left for the yeast to even be active. Again, what are you trying to gain?
If you want to secondary in the keg, to save a transfer, and sediment doesnt bother you, go ahead and do it. Pull the pressure relief valve once a day to relieve the pressure in the keg. When you are ready to carb, chill the keg, turn the PSI to 30psi for 24 hours, then dial it down to your serving pressure and bleed off the extra pressure. It will be fully carbed in 24 hours."
I thought that after the first fermentation down to approx 1010 you bottle it and at the same time add priming sugar = real ale with secondary fermentation in the bottle ie natuarlly conditioned. So is it not the same that you do with a corny keg, just that now it is a 5 gallon bottle?
Further more on reading more, i discovered a bubble (airlock) fitted to the corny keg using one of the snap on connectors a bit of pipe linking to the bubbler. Then in this case you would need to force carbonate, so no natural conditioning , might aswell drink Lager :shock:
am i missing something here because i am not been brewing long, but it sounds like someones missed the point of real ale?
You will have some sediment in the bottom of your keg if you secondary in it... also, youd have to really put the pressure to the beer to carbonate it much at all at fermentation temps. What would be the purpose of carbonating it in the keg while it is being secondaried? I have also read that fermenting under pressure will inhibit fermentation, not to mention if you are driving CO2 into solution, there will probably not be much inthe way of O2 left for the yeast to even be active. Again, what are you trying to gain?
If you want to secondary in the keg, to save a transfer, and sediment doesnt bother you, go ahead and do it. Pull the pressure relief valve once a day to relieve the pressure in the keg. When you are ready to carb, chill the keg, turn the PSI to 30psi for 24 hours, then dial it down to your serving pressure and bleed off the extra pressure. It will be fully carbed in 24 hours."
I thought that after the first fermentation down to approx 1010 you bottle it and at the same time add priming sugar = real ale with secondary fermentation in the bottle ie natuarlly conditioned. So is it not the same that you do with a corny keg, just that now it is a 5 gallon bottle?
Further more on reading more, i discovered a bubble (airlock) fitted to the corny keg using one of the snap on connectors a bit of pipe linking to the bubbler. Then in this case you would need to force carbonate, so no natural conditioning , might aswell drink Lager :shock:
am i missing something here because i am not been brewing long, but it sounds like someones missed the point of real ale?