Reducing Boil Time

[Ceejay]

I currently boil for 90 mins, mainly because ermm....I don't know! That's what I've read to do I guess. At the moment I'm getting a boil off rate of about 15% (per hour) so I'm boiling off 22.5% of my wort, which is seriously affecting my overall efficiency.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't be doing a 60 or 70 minute boil instead? Does it mainly depend on style? I'm probably talking about 3 bottles of beer being boiled off over the last 30 minutes. Should I just not worry about it?

Cheers,

CJ. :

 

[artyb]

i noticed a few breweries do a 60 min boil.... :wha:

 

[robsan77]

I do 60 and always get a cracking break. My boiler does boil hard though.

 

[46.philh]

What power do you use ?

1 or 2 elements always on or Gas ?

 

[robsan77]

only have 1 element on for the boil, tesco value in a 25litre bucket.,

 

[Moley]

I currently boil for 90 mins, mainly because ermm....I don't know! That's what I've read to do I guess. At the moment I'm getting a boil off rate of about 15% (per hour) so I'm boiling off 22.5% of my wort, which is seriously affecting my overall efficiency.

You're only boiling off water so your wort is getting stronger. It shouldn't be affecting your efficiency as your OG is getting higher.

You can put that water back, either by adding boiling water to the copper, or cooled boiled water to the FV.

 

[nuggitmv]

you can put the water back but you will just be watering down your brew

 

[robsan77]

i am constantly topping up my brews. I can only fit 25 litres max so if i didnt, plus losses to hops and trub, I would only ever get around 17 litres.

 

[BarnsleyBrewer]

60min boil here.. :thumb:
I use 2 elements to achieve the boil, then alternate the two every 10mins.
I get a good hot break, clear beer and good hop utilization.
BB

 

[Moley]

you can put the water back but you will just be watering down your brew

Are you though?

Let's use round numbers and take things to the extreme:

You're aiming for 40 pints at 1.040
You start the boil with 50 pints at 1.032, expecting to lose 20% to evaporation
It actually boils down to 30 pints at 1.053

30 pints @ 1.053 might be very nice, but if you add 10 pints of water you're only back to what you wanted in the first place, 40 pints @ 1.040

 

[BarnsleyBrewer]

you can put the water back but you will just be watering down your brew

Are you though?

Let's use round numbers and take things to the extreme:

You're aiming for 40 pints at 1.040
You start the boil with 50 pints at 1.032, expecting to lose 20% to evaporation
It actually boils down to 30 pints at 1.053

30 pints @ 1.053 might be very nice, but if you add 10 pints of water you're only back to what you wanted in the first place, 40 pints @ 1.040

Makes sense to me Ade. :thumb: :thumb:

 

[Ceejay]

Yeah, that makes sense :thumb: . I was just working back my efficiency on my latest brew and got to thinking about boil time. I use a 3kw element in a 30 litre kettle and I get a fierce, volcanic boil so I reckon cutting my boil time down to 60-70 mins would be beneficial, if only from a time point of view

I'm trying to work out where my efficiency went on Sunday's Blonde Ale brew. I planned for 65% - 23 litres at 1040 and got 19 litres at 1038...I think it was in the mash. Should have known when the first runnings only read 1066... :wha:

 

[evanvine]

My boiler reduces at the rate of 5 ltrs per hour.
So for a 23 ltr brew I sparge to 31 ltrs.
90 min boil.

 

[craigite]

I'm finding that to get the results I want I am boiling my very light lower alcohol bitters for 90mins and I boil my darker stronger brews for 60mins.
Do not know why but the lighter brews clear brighter with the longer boil :wha:

Anyway, it works for me.

 

[phettebs]

60 min boils here. I use an LP gas turkey fryer. I will do a 90 on occasion when I'm looking for some extra caramelization.