question about pilsner

[mattybabsy]

So I've fermented a coopers pilsner. kept it at around 10-14 degrees c as I was told it has a true lager yeast and needed to ferment at lower temps

That was 3 weeks ago and now I have 2 questions:

I'm now out of coopers drops from my starter kit and wanted to batch prime. What amount of normal cane sugar would you guys recommend for 23 L of pilsner? and how much water do you boil that in? how long do you boil it for?

secondly, how do I condition it? just in room temp like any other beer, or should it condition in slightly lower temps?

thanks

 

[Mr.Everready]

I made my Coopers Pilsner as per the instructions, fermenting at 20c. Probalbly the best kit I've done.

I batch primed mine to the instructions too, 8g-ish per litre iirc. I didn't boil the syrup, I put the sugar in a pan and poured in boiling water from the kettle, it doesn't take much to dissolve all the sugar. Then I conditioned it at 20c for about 7-10 days then put it in the garage.

 

[Dunfie]

When I did my pilsner I used 100g per 23l which I found was more than enough.

There is a batch priming calculator here -> http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html (remember that 23l is around 6 US gallons - we don't want bombs now do we) :thumb:

 

[mattybabsy]

brilliant guys, thanks

whats the advantages to using different sugars or dme for priming?

 

[battwave]

brilliant guys, thanks

whats the advantages to using different sugars or dme for priming?

Cane sugar supposedly results in a cidery taste, but at 1/4 tsp per bottle I've never had a problem in 30 years of kit, partial and AG brewing.

Call me unadventurous, but I've never tried batch priming. A set of measuring spoons and a very small funnel from Wilkos does the job - very therapeutic!

 

[Dunfie]

For me the intention of priming is to condition and carbonate my beer so I wat to do it as efficiently as possible. So I just use white sugar - it ferments out clean and does it relatively quickly. You could use DME, it will carbonate and also leave a slight residual sweetness although I suspect you will struggle to taste any difference to sugar. It also costs a lot more than sugar.

There has been a recent podcast by Basic Brewing Radio where they walked through a priming experiment - it might be worth looking that up.

 

[Dunfie]

Cane sugar supposedly results in a cidery taste, but at 1/4 tsp per bottle I've never had a problem in 30 years of kit, partial and AG brewing.

I think that is a common misconception. The cidery taste that is associated with the cheap kits is more likely to be associated with the malt extract than the white sugar.

 

[Mr.Everready]

When I did my pilsner I used 100g per 23l which I found was more than enough.

There is a batch priming calculator here -> http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html (remember that 23l is around 6 US gallons - we don't want bombs now do we) :thumb:

I've done my Aussie lager and Pilsner with 8g ( as their instructions ) and had no problems at all. I tried putting less in a Coopers APA and it was as flat as a pancake.

 

[Dunfie]

I've done my Aussie lager and Pilsner with 8g ( as their instructions ) and had no problems at all. I tried putting less in a Coopers APA and it was as flat as a pancake.

Fair point Mr E, I haven't brewed with the Coopers kits so 8g per litre might be what is required. :thumb:

I have found that with AG I don't need that much or I get too much carbonation and the yeast comes up too quickly on pouring.

 

[mattybabsy]

thanks guys- got one last question

Got some yeast nutrient (youngs i think) the other day

was going to use it with the pilsner tomorrow but can't find great instructions anywhere.

anyone got any tips?

thanks

 

[Dunfie]

I have never used it before but my understanding is that you add about a half teaspoon to the boil at around 15mins from the end.

Here is some more general information about nutrient from Aleman:

yeast nutrient is important in brewing. It is important the the wort has sufficient Free Amino Nitrogen for the yeast to metabolise correctly, if the wort is deficient in FAN then fermentation is sluggish and may stick. Yeast reproduction is impaired leading to the production of petite mutants . . . deformed yeast cells that are known to be responsible for the production of undesirable fermentation by products.

The good thing is that a properly mashed wort is going to have more than sufficient FAN, but worts from kits includinga large proportion of sugar may well be deficient in FAN.

When making a starter it is always a good idea to include yeast nutrient, and perhaps even a zinc supplement like servomyces to ensure that the starter produces the healthiest cells it can to pitch into the wort.

 

[mattybabsy]

brilliant thanks. will look at youngs website too