Pub enthusiasts: advice needed

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You need 24 hours after being tapped to make sure the beer is cleared (after the shock of being tapped).

What I like to do its get a bit of chalk and write the date vented the / the date on sale... so a beer in our cellar has ' 1 / ' It may go on abit early say sat... so then it will say '1 / 3' that way you know WHEN the beer got vented and WHEN it went on sale. So by the 6th (3days later) you may want to start pushing that beer or delay putting any fresh beer on while you have 'old beer' in peek condition? This also has the advantage of letting you know which beer is next for service (or next to try BEFORE) you try it..

also be warned the first pint of properly racked beer may and from some brewerys should be slighly cloudy. So if your checking from the cask allways ditch the first half pint before evlauating putting on.


If you got brain washed by a brewery training day (like me).

Remember to check for !CHATTS.. :ugeek: after its on draught....
C: Clarity
H: Head
A: Aroma
T: Taste
T: Temperate
S: Seeding

Clarity: Easy... it should be reasonably clear unless a wheat beer.. in which case you should let your custom know so they dont go... 'Eh' up.. t' cloud' in't beer'
Head: A NORTHERN pint should have nice tight head for most cask beer styles in served from a swan neck
Aroma: Give it a wiff... does it smell of those fragrant hops... malty biscuits....? or does that line need a clean!? *Note the smell with change if served thru a tight swan neck.. a more hopy aroma is usualy found but try from the cask and from the sawn neck and you'll see...
Taste!!: Taste it.. you will notice a slight change from your cellar sample but you should know what your serving you customers... you'll also know if youve flushed that line right after cleaning! :sick:
Temperature: Draught cask 'Should' be served at cellar temperature or slightly colder. You will normally find that its about 10C in pubs after going thru the coolers. As you said you are a Kitchen escapie then try a food probe in your served beer.. check the temp!
Seeding: Noo.. no seeds in the beer. check your glasses... no the beer glasses ale glasses should show NO bubbles on the SIDE of the glasses, any you see are because of a faulty glass washer or because of a dirty one. Seeding refers to the building of bubbles in the glass. A Clean glass with ale in should be spot less with no bubbles showing... LAGER glasses should form a fizz from the bottom of the glass IF the glass as a 'Widget' as you'll hear people call it but its acutally a 'condensation nuclei' or nucleated glasses... bassicaly the etched bottom of the glass allows the higher volumes of Co2 in the lager to 'break free' from the liquid forming fizz..

'Eh Mate! My Fostas is like... well flat'.... no its not.. it prob just needs a fresh cool.. clean glass... if people say pub lager is flat try it in a new glass... 99.99% of the time its the glass.

D
 
I've got another question for you, if you don't mind.

I had to change a firkin. There were two firkins racked and ready to go. One tapped on the 27/12 and the other tapped on the 28/12. I accidentally connected the firkin racked on the 28th. A few pints (< 1 gallon) were poured before I realised my mistake. I then disconnected the barrel tapped on the 28th, hard spiled it and connected the firkin I had tapped on the 27th.

Did I do the right thing? Or should I have finished the firkin from the 28th before moving onto the firkin tapped on the 27th?
 
Turning into a nice interesting 'behind the scenes' (or what should be BTS) thread :thumb:

As forum members we all brew our own, but like me still have a night out somewhere or maybe just on holiday.
We have a nice pub in the next village that has a couple or three cask ales and decent food, all of which have been rather good :cheers:
 
leedsbrew said:
ps: the spelling in this post is probably *****! I'm at the tail end of a 13 hour night shift and starting to see double! :D

You're fine, it's got past Moleys spelling/punctuation radar... ;)

BB :D

EDIT: :oops:
 
BarnsleyBrewer said:
Your fine
:nono: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono:

That should be you're as in a contraction of you are not your . . as in "I vant to drink your blood!"
 
Hello Again!
jpbl68 said:
I've got another question for you, if you don't mind.
I had to change a firkin. There were two firkins racked and ready to go. One tapped on the 27/12 and the other tapped on the 28/12. I accidentally connected the firkin racked on the 28th. A few pints (< 1 gallon) were poured before I realised my mistake. I then disconnected the barrel tapped on the 28th, hard spiled it and connected the firkin I had tapped on the 27th.

Did I do the right thing? Or should I have finished the firkin from the 28th before moving onto the firkin tapped on the 27th?

This really does depend on what the beers were like. Were they both clear and lovely? In which case you should go with the 'oldest' beer which can be the first beer 'vented' not necessarily tapped. Another good point to always remember is that the beer with the least time on its Best Before Date should always take priority and be served next to keep quality up. Keep a check, when I was having 20 firkins (9g) and 10 Kilderkins (18) delivered a week on 4 deliveries I used to spend some time every day making sure that all the best before dates were in order or at least were well off.

The question of whether you made a mistake well, personally once air has been drawn into the cask its best to get it sold with in its 5 day period. I would sacrifice an extra 5 days of another beer being vented to sell that one first.. BUT I bet no one noticed it is a genuinely small mistake.. its only when several 'small' mistakes happen that is when things go wrong... they key is being organised and if you are noticing that the beer was put on in the wrong order then you are doing very well. Most people wouldn't even know which one is next..

Also reading thru this post I haven't mentioned hard pegs yet :eek: .....
Noo... hard pegs... are like soft pegs but hard.... :shock:
Id better rephrase that.. as well as the soft pegs which are porous and made from bamboo of some description you should have some solid wood or plastic pegs. If you feel your beer has been vented for too long and you want to protect it from and nastys then stick a softpeg in the stop, hit it with your mallet to make it air tight. When you come to serve TAKE IT OUT.. other wise bad things will happen, and replace it with a soft peg. I'm not really sure they make that much difference but if a beer is struggling to clear then I always hard peg it and leave it for a week and check it again. So in this situation you could have ether hard pegged the beer you skipped or hard pegged the beer you had started serving from.. but as we have said there was already air drawn in to the cask so it would be better to just serve this.

Another point to make is.. if you were putting a totally different beer on ie. guest beers... did you flush the line with water before you put the next beer on.. ? I would recommend doing this especially if its been more than half a week since you cleaned it. This will get rid of any pockets of air and ensure that the beer its self has been totally removed from the line and you haven't created some hybrid beer for your first gallon of service.

Anyone feel free to correct me.. i have spent alot of time in cellars on my own with beer and I may have gone abit mad.

BarnsleyBrewer said:
leedsbrew said:
ps: the spelling in this post is probably *****! I'm at the tail end of a 13 hour night shift and starting to see double! :D
Your fine, it's got past Moleys spelling/punctuation radar... ;)
BB :D
I think I have too much to comment on! :D
 
Darcey said:
This really does depend on what the beers were like. Were they both clear and lovely?...
They were both clear and lovely. To my knowledge no one has complained about the beer. Hopefully it will be OK. If not I'll just chalk it up to experience.

Thanks again, Darcey :thumb:
 
If they were both fine then its best to put the one vented first on. The tapping date is less important as that only effects the clarity when its initially tapped. Its not the end of the world! :P
 
That's good to know.


I finished Patrick O'Neil's Cellarmanship. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone wanting to learn about running a cellar/looking after beer. I found it very informative without being unnecessarily complicated.
 
i too have run a few award winning pubs and now run an award winning brewery. what darcey says is spot on, always do quality over quantity!vent well, clean lines, right cellar temp, a dry clean cellar are all crucial to good real ale at dispense point.

one of thesehttp://www.acask.com/products/filt-a-cask/ will maximise the shelf life of your cask. personally i stick to the three day rule and discount after that before it goes off but a filt a cask could save a lot of money in the long run.
 
Bit of a high jack of the thread but critch just wondering what lead you to opening a brewery, did you need any qualifications and are there any books you recommend someone reading?

Thanks :thumb:
 
running the boozer ....


my 4 out of 5 of the lads involved either drank there or worked there... they all liked my beers, a drunken plan was formed

a beer kit practicaly fell into our laps

ted brunnings microbrewers handbook should be your bible.......



and back to the thread......
 
BarnsleyBrewer said:
leedsbrew said:
ps: the spelling in this post is probably *****! I'm at the tail end of a 13 hour night shift and starting to see double! :D

You're fine, it's got past Moleys spelling/punctuation radar... ;)

BB :D

EDIT: :oops:

Lol! I was that tired when I wrote that, that I don't even remember writing it! :D I like to trawl through threads when it gets to the 12hr mark on a night shift as it tends to keep me up! Plus I have a 45 min car journey home after work! :D Keep an eye out for further miss spelt ramblings tomorrow night! :D
 
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